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Ok guys new to the forum here, Ive done quite a bit of digging but I need some specifics from someone who may know.
Little bit of history on the truck. 86 F350 CC/LB 460/C6. Its now a 557 and a ZF5 with a 205 case, running GM COP and fuel injection with a new 2010 camaro ecu. Im going through the truck completely, down to boxing the frame and updating all the electronics. I own a hot rod shop, machine shop and fabrication shop so I get a little OCD at times. Im in the process of doing the engine side of the firewall right now.
So I took apart the heater/evap box, cleaned it, resealed it, replaced the heater core with a new style aluminum one, fixed the foam on the recirc door, basically everything is brand new. pressure tested the evaporator and everything seems swell. I rebuilt the AC compressor a few years ago, so it has no oil in it at all. I also drained the evaporator while it was out. I currently dont have a condenser yet since im adding a 5 core radiator and redoing the core support next.
So, my questions are this. The dryer that I have, is stock, R12, and it looks like one from a 96 model has the same fitting for the evaporator, and I can make the other fittings to make it work, but is the 96 an R134 model? The Evaporator looks almost identical minus the addition of the spring lock type fitting instead of the screw fitting, but im pretty sure they both use orifice tubes. Ive already cleaned and painted my stock dryer, but do i need to get the newer one. I should mention its sat open in a box for years, so im sure the desiccant is going to be full. Can I put it in an oven to dry it out (250* or so). Would it be worth the time to go to something like a 2004 F350 dryer and making that work (again I have a full shop with CNC machines and welders I can make fittings) I see that its still orifice tube that year as well.
The next question would be what condenser to run. Ive heard that the R134 is bigger since its not as efficient. And i need to buy one so might as well get it right the first time.
Heres a few pics of what Im doing. The steering column is new GM (since I mainly do GM cars), and the booster and master is 5th gen camaro, which strangely enough bolted right up and worked with just a spacer on the firewall. Might as well use parts I have laying around instead of buying them if I can.
Thanks in advance. YES I KNOW THE BOOSTER IS UPSIDE DOWN!!
I did the R12 to R134 switch on my truck a little while ago. my truck is an 82, but the compressor I used is from a 90+ since I swapped over to the full serpentine belt setup from a 1990 460. That meant I switched to the FS10 compressor (rather then the FS6 which is susceptible to the "black death"). The FS10 hose connections are on the rear of the compressor so a '90s model hose assembly is needed - which fits the 82 condenser and accumulator connections properly.
Any replacement Accumulator you get will be compatible with R134a. Don't try to reuse the one you have now. They are cheap insurance.
The stock 82 condenser and evaporator work fine with R134, but if you know of a larger one that will have the correct mounting and inlet/outlet connections, then by all means go with it.
The old AC pressure cutout switch works fine, just need to lower the cutout setting a little. For the orifice tube, stock was blue - it was said to change blue to red, however I bought an "variable" style which works fine.
Im going through the truck completely, down to boxing the frame and updating all the electronics. I own a hot rod shop, machine shop and fabrication shop so I get a little OCD at times. Im in the process of doing the engine side of the firewall right now.
It was discussed on the 460 engine forum about the need to box the frame" on an early (80-86) model trucks, to support 800+ HP build, the the builder Pros said it is not needed - as these trucks have a very strong frame (when compared to the older cars with full frames). Although it certainty wouldn't hurt - and it would look neat too.
The stock 82 condenser and evaporator work fine with R134, but if you know of a larger one that will have the correct mounting and inlet/outlet connections, then by all means go with it.
On my '84, I'm running all stock components with the R134a conversion and am very happy with it. If you do find a bigger condenser that installs easily, please post the results. If I ever have to replace the condenser, I would like to upgrade it.
One important thing I should point out is all components (except for the condenser) have been replaced over the years. R134a conversions often get a bad rap, but I think much of that comes from keeping the tired, old components. R134a isn't as efficient as old R12, and when combined with worn out components (especially the compressor), you end up with subpar performance, but the R134a gets all the blame.
The only time I've noticed slightly elevated duct temps is in stop and go driving, when ram airflow through the condenser is low. A bigger condenser would help, but for now the existing one is adequate.
A few other suggestions:
I highly recommend adding a heater shut-off valve. Details in the thread above.
I also lined the outside of the evaporator housing with Thermotec adhesive-backed thermal shield. This helps reflect heat away from the adjacent exhaust manifold.
With these minor mods, if I was in the business of transporting penguins, they'd complain the cab was too cold.
Oh man so many replies. Let see if I can answer the other questions.
Ok I forgot to mention that I am using the 90 or 91 front drive, its from the same truck I bought the ZF trans from, I bought the engine and trans together but it had a bent rod, so its now a mockup.
I also, in my infinite wisdom, tossed out most of the stock interior back when I worked at a shop building SEMA cars, and figured Id build a whole new interior. Not. So I ended up buying another complete F350, same exact truck as mine, but it was a base model, and was an old loggers truck, for $300. The dana60 was gone, but the rest was there. I mainly bought it for the 10.25 that I can resell, and the interior parts. The engine was worn, but the C6/NP was still good so I sold that as well. Hence why the dash is red, not blue as it should have been (or, was when it was stock). So I painted it black, powedercoated all the metal brackets behind it, and put it back together. Im going to run some Vintage Air universal vents and some 2.5" flex tubing for face vents, I still need to find the vent pieces for the defrost though.
As far as the AN fittings, I convert pretty much everything I build to them. This was an aluminum heater core, so I just welded a few -8 bungs onto the ends. Ill do the same for all the AC stuff and have hoses made. I hate hose clamps.
Boxing the frame just seems like a decent idea since the truck is about 10 bolts away from being cab off, and Ive never liked how much frame twist this has, especially at 700+ lbft of torque, and all the towing I do with it (hitch and 5th wheel). Being a CC/LB its 21 Ft long and I can actually feel it flex driving around. Only thing I need to figure out is how to coat the inside after, since I live in the PNW, and its wet all the time. Maybe find someone who can dip it in something, like a big tar vat haha.
So, ill be buying a new dryer, easy enough, Ill just get the same one made for the truck then, and paint it, again. no biggie. From what ive seen the 87-90something trucks use the same front clip, so I might get one from a 90 or 91 truck locally, see if it fits, then order one from rockauto. Ill end up making custom hoses anyways, and I dont have the stock stuff anymore so I wont be able to really tell what would have fit stock anyways.
Ive also heard about running the heater cutoff valve, which seems like a great idea since the heater is always getting hot water through it. I have a few vacuum operated ones, and the whole AC control system is going to be electrical vacuum valves and servos anyways, so it should be easy to implement. Im also going to be running the stock clutch fan, but MAY add a front pusher just for the really hot days or during towing, I have an oil cooler, trans cooler, and PS cooler that are all in front of the condenser.
Apparently I need to make a build thread one of these days. Now that Im actually working on this again after 10 years.
priority main oiling mods. takes oil direct from the pump and feeds the mains, just helps with bearing life at 4.500 stroke. theres also mods at the distributor to keep it covered in oil at the gear.
I should say all the bearings ive ever pulled out of multiple 460s are always trashed in the middle of the sweep, i figure a little more oil flow couldnt hurt
Ok so I ordered a RED variable orifice tube from 4 seasons, a new dryer (same 1986 one), a condenser from a 1994 F350, and a few other things. Looks like the size of the 94 is a little different, but its aluminum and I can easily weld fittings on, and the mounts are close, nothing a few riv-nuts cant fix.
Next question. I need fuel tanks. both mine were rusted out the bottom from sitting empty and getting water inside. Id like to upgrade to plastic ones, is there a newer year that has the same style tanks, even if I need to make mounts or straps. Or aftermarket ones that are direct fit in plastic?
Next question. I need fuel tanks. both mine were rusted out the bottom from sitting empty and getting water inside. Id like to upgrade to plastic ones, is there a newer year that has the same style tanks, even if I need to make mounts or straps. Or aftermarket ones that are direct fit in plastic?
You may have better luck posting that in a new thread. This thread was originally about AC systems, so folks who know about fuel tanks may not have seen your question.
Off on a tangent, I've got to say I'm impressed with the workmanship seen in your pictures. I've never seen AN fittings used on a heater core.
