June 2017


A zip tie saved me a $1000.00. I found the source of my low power. The throttle cable was in the wrong position not allowing full travel. Since it was doing before I changed the cable I thought it was Injector pump and injectors. I guess the old cable was stretched and the new one had two positions. I moved it and zip tied it in place great pickup now. I still have to test it under a heavy load.
Your problem is Air.
Did you replace the master cylinder ?
Do you still have drums on the back?
How are you trying to bleed them?
Smoked it at work today. We pulled a transmission on our second truck. We had it out by lunch time which is a record. We have it stripped and everything put on the new one and ready to set in the morning. We are hours ahead on the work order. Have another truck coming in tomorrow with transmission problems. Bring it on!!!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
It was nice to go out to my tractor and it fire right up. The wife wants to go to some chicken swap thing on Saturday so I'm trying to get ahead on weekend chores.
If you are replacinng hoses go ahead and do wheel cylinders on the rear.
This thing rocks.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
Make life a whole lot easier. No more 2 person pump and hold
When you start you bleed go RR,LR,RF, LF. 8f you did the master cylinder it has to be bench bled or you will never get the air out
I finished the brakes on my neighbor's Envoy. Useing my bleeder it still took a while.
Chief
Glad your happy with you tractor. I still waiting on the part from my dealer, neither one 9f 7s can figure out why it took corporate 6 weeks to get him the part. Once it get here I either have to d9 my first cylinder rebuild or take it some where. The onlyrics thing that looks hard is getting the snap rIngles out of the end.
Where is the chicken swap, my land neighbor that could not read a plat to find his property raises chickens
I got a mityvac bleeder, I think I am going to replace the master and boosters because both are like 80 bucks total together after core return.
I need to figure out if I have one or two rear hoses. I have never messed with drum brakes before so this will be interesting. Looks like I will have a whole new brake system while I am at it. I guess I have to be able to stop all that torque and hp.
Funny thing you guys talking about working on land. I have little over a .25 of acre and I am clearing out some smaller trees and over grown stuff. Man, I couldn't image having 10 or 20 acres.
I got a mityvac bleeder, I think I am going to replace the master and boosters because both are like 80 bucks total together after core return.
I need to figure out if I have one or two rear hoses. I have never messed with drum brakes before so this will be interesting. Looks like I will have a whole new brake system while I am at it. I guess I have to be able to stop all that torque and hp.
The rear brake line leaves the MC go a proportioning valve (I think it is on the cross member) from there it goes along the frame rail to the T on the axle that splits to each wheel cylinder rubber hose should be around the T everything else is steel.
You may have to adjust the rear brakes in to get the drums off. If they are adusted right an no Ridge the will slide off. If you have to beat on the do it around the edge of the drum.
Only do onee side at a time, that way you have a new example of how the go back together. There are 2 springs that hold the shoes on 1 per shoe those are push to compress and turn. There is a top spring and bottom spring those are stretch type. The wheel cylinder at the top, that is what pushes the brakes out . These are high failure items Do Not get rebuild kits, justt get new ones if they are leaking as with any brake work also do the whole axle.
You will have a short cable that goes down to the adjuster. Pay attention to how the adjuster is placed. You also have the emergency brake cable connected to the brakes
Here the tools you need for the rears
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...kit-97804.html
If you can get the rears to bleed you will need to reset the proportioning valove
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=20541&.jpg=
Go to post #13 of this thread, everything above that is 8diots talking about bleeding brakes not resetting the valve
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ing-valve.html






