I have a no start no spark situation i am having trouble diagnosing
Truck started and then died it has fuel pressure but no spark I know that there is a theft light that is flashing (slowly) when the key is off. Could this bee the problem?

 

PATS, it's a dealer issue, no spark, it's the clockspring, just had mine done this past year, 2001 4.0L 5sp Manual Trans, 2WD.

 

Thanks for that
was it expensive?

 

Your thief light blinks every 3 seconds. That is normal operation.When you try and start the truck it should go off. If it goes off it is not a PATS problem ( Passive Anti Thief System ) . If it does not go off it is a PATS problem. There is transceiver under the steering column that can fail and a module behind the passenger air bag that can go bad. See if your thief light goes off when you try and start it and if it does post it and we will try and help you troubleshoot the problem.I have troubleshot the transceiver and the module it is not that hard to do. Let me know what you find .

 

Also check to see if your coil pack is getting the signal to fire the plugs,,,voltmeter or test light will tell you the answer to that.

 

The coil pack gets it signal to fire plugs from the crankshaft sensor via the computer,,,in other words crankshaft sensor tells the computer to fire the coil pack.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Hold on, don't begin throwing parts at this problem. Seeing as how you seem to like turning your own wrenches, use, or come by the inexpensive ELM scan tool running FORScan, or the like diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice, as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it scan all of the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

I agree the KOEO PATS anti-theft slow blink rate sounds normal. If there is a problem with it, the latest version of FORScan can now access & read any stored PATS codes. It can also program keys, if your old key is bad.

If it's a PATS problem, the PATS light will blink Fast when cranking the engine.

I recently went though a normal start, brief run for 30 seconds & smooth engine shut down, with a strong crank but no restart, with the PATS light rapidly flashing on the re-crank. Made me think I had a PATS problem.

It turned out to be the ECM power relay solenoid winding had gone high resistance & apparently wasn't pulling the contacts in strong enough to carry any size load. Worked well enough that All dash warning lights lit up ok & went through their self checks & timed out as normal BUT I couldn't get my ELM, or Actron scan tools to connect with the ECM. Seems their added load would drop the voltage so they couldn't connect.

Same when the relay couldn't take the load of the fuel pump & spark when trying to start the engine. Anyway I found the ECM power relay was bad by swapping in a like relay not needed to crank, or run the engine, in my case I swapped in the like kind blower motor power relay & WALA, start & ran like nothing had happened & now the scan tools would connect with the ECM & the Fast blinking PATS light was out when cranking the engine.

Tried the faulty ECM power relay in a couple of other positions like the blower motor & start positions but it wouldn't work those functions either. Multi-meter found it's solenoid winding had gone high resistance, like 2600 ohms, so with only 12 volts to operate, it couldn't pull the contacts in well enough to handle more than the warning lights doing their self check, which made me think all was ok there.

SO, if the scan tools won't access the ECM & the cigar lighter fuse is ok, which the scan tool is fused through, the PCM power relay is suspect, so as mentioned above, try swapping it with a like one not needed to crank, or run the engine & let us know how it goes.

 

Paw Paw thanks for the help
This truck had a dead battery when I went to get it we jump started it and it started but only ran for a few seconds then died the notes from a shop down the street said that it would start and die after warming up and the oil was real milky they recommended head gaskets I replaced the heads and all gaskets all parts that were reinstalled were put in original position( push rods, tappets) no extra bolts upon completion
checked with OBDII (no stored codes) There is a P1000 code in red but right under that it says no stored codes if i hit more it says OBD system connect is not complete??Theft light goes out when Key on
Replaced cam sensor, Crank sensor, no spark power to coil (red w/ green stripe) no power when cranking on tan w/ stripe wires checked all fuses w/ continuty tester moved pcm relay to new position and used other relay still no spark checked that cam position synchro only moves when cranking. Don't know what else to look for?
All help is immensely appreciated

 

Ok so lets think about this some more. At KOEO you should have B+ to the coil packs three primary windings, so do you have B+ at the coil pack electrical connector at KOEO?

The crank sensor output tells the computer the engine is turning over & if aligned properly, tells the ECM when to ground switch the coil packs to make spark at the proper time.

The cam sensor output is used by the ECM to give fuel injectors squirt at the proper time.

OBD-2 is rather sophisticated, so with a no spark condition, it would be unusual for there to be no trouble codes stored.
How are you determining you have no spark? Use your inductive timing light on any spark plug wire to Safely check for spark.

 

I have tried the inductive timing light to no avail 350 -360 rpm no flashes there is Power to coil (red w/ green) and no power to Tan w/ any thought the last reply may have been confusing. { using punctuation marks would alliviate and confusion} All hep is very appreciated

 

Ok, did you check for spark on all 3 coils? If so & you still didn't detect any spark output on any coil, check/use your multi-meter for primary resistance/continuity check to see if the internal coil primary connection has gone open circuit.

If you aren't already referring to this help link, to save a lot of typing, have a look/read here for a no spark trouble shoot tutorial & let us know how it goes. Part 1 -How to Test the Coil Pack (Ford 3.0L, 3.8L, 4.0L, 4.2L)

 

sorry this is soo long in coming
Sometimes you gotta get away and think about things!! i.e. is it worth pushing it in the creek? would it bee okay to drag it sideways thru town back to the guys house? then I re-read Pawpaw post and went to see what tests to preform. glad I did!! I found that there is power to the Coil and there is power to thru the tan w/ any wires while cranking!! that would mean that the coil pack needs to bee replaced, right? i found one at Auto Zone $84
not sure that is a good price.
let me know if this is where to go from here
Thank you for all your help

 

Ok good trouble shooting & feed back.
Yes from your description it sounds like the coil pack is suspect.

How did you test for B+ at the coil pack electrical connector?

Also use your multi-meter on a low ohms setting & check across the coil pack Primary winding connections. The Primary coil resistance should be less than 1 ohm. If it's gone open circuit, or is high resistance, then it's bad.

If in doubt, before buying a new one, call around to check, most auto parts stores can bench test the old coil pack for output at no cost, before you buy a new one.

Have the new one bench tested too, before leaving the store with it.

Advance Auto has a little better pricing with online ordering using 30-40% off promo discount codes here https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com & in store pick up to save shipping.

Let us know how it goes.

 

So I tested the coil pack with a multi meter and it is showin 1.2-1.3 ohms between the power pin and the other pins then an OL between the connector pins (all) and the spark plug wire connectors. Should I assume that it is bad and replace it??
Thanks again for all of the assistance!!!

 

The primary resistance seems to be a little high, not gross, maybe within measurement error of your multi-meter.

Try warming the coil pack up, say to 120F or so, to simulate under hood hot operating temps & check primary resistance warm, as if the spark is going missing after it warms in the vehicle, the primary resistance may go up, or go open circuit, as heat causes things to expand, so a faulty internal connection could be ok, or nearly so at room temp, but go faulty at hot operating temp.

If it bench checks out ok when warm, you could have a like wiring temp connection, or maybe a loose pin not fully seated in the coil pack, or firewall computer connector that's acting out with temp, or vibration, or a problem with the B+ feed wire to the coil pack. Like a under load B+ voltage drop, when the computer ground switches the primary winding to make spark.

In that case you'd want to back probe the B+ feed wire going into the coil pack & if ok under load going into the coil pack, the wiring run from the computer firewall connector to the coil pack is ok.

If you have B+ voltage drop at the coil pack, back up & check B+ under load at the computer firewall electrical connector, to see if you have a voltage drop with B+ feed under load from the computer end.

You could also have a parts store bench check the coil pack for output as mentioned previously, but also warm it up good for the test, maybe take a hair dryer, or heat gun along to top off the heating. Just be careful if using a heat gun, as it can get things hot enough to melt solder.

Let us know what you find.