'69 F100 Bigger Issues
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'69 F100 Bigger Issues
Hello!
I have a question. In a 1969 Ford F100, what are some problems outside of routine maintenance/small repairs that I might encounter? Issues that would require a seasoned mechanic to fix, but that don't crop up very often.
I'd like to know not only because I'm considering buying one, but also because one features heavily in a book I'm writing and at one point the character has some engine trouble that he can't fix by himself.
Thank you!
I have a question. In a 1969 Ford F100, what are some problems outside of routine maintenance/small repairs that I might encounter? Issues that would require a seasoned mechanic to fix, but that don't crop up very often.
I'd like to know not only because I'm considering buying one, but also because one features heavily in a book I'm writing and at one point the character has some engine trouble that he can't fix by himself.
Thank you!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
The 67-72 our pretty much all the same per say.
Rust seems to have it's way of turning one the these yrs in to a rust bucket.
1. the roof drip rail seam sealer cracks the rail/snow gets into the cracks an freezes make it open the cracks an more water gets in side the roof sheet metal.
2. while driving mud /water/snow packs up into the front cab mounts an starts rusting them from the inside out.
3. Hard starting has be misleading can be a few things from bad ignition points or condenser, an loose or broken inside dizzy wires. Dizzy cap or rotor to burnt exh. valve & seats.
4. An a warned out dizzy upper shaft bearing makes the timing wonder, same happens with a bad timing chain.
5. The wrong type of oil used while breaking in a newly rebuilt engine, the cam can get wipe out a cam lobe.
Just to list some of the things that can happen to these bump sides classics.
Orich
Rust seems to have it's way of turning one the these yrs in to a rust bucket.
1. the roof drip rail seam sealer cracks the rail/snow gets into the cracks an freezes make it open the cracks an more water gets in side the roof sheet metal.
2. while driving mud /water/snow packs up into the front cab mounts an starts rusting them from the inside out.
3. Hard starting has be misleading can be a few things from bad ignition points or condenser, an loose or broken inside dizzy wires. Dizzy cap or rotor to burnt exh. valve & seats.
4. An a warned out dizzy upper shaft bearing makes the timing wonder, same happens with a bad timing chain.
5. The wrong type of oil used while breaking in a newly rebuilt engine, the cam can get wipe out a cam lobe.
Just to list some of the things that can happen to these bump sides classics.
Orich
Junior User
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 65
Likes: 1
I finally found a good rust free '68 f-100, 240 six with auto', I wanted a pickup to replace my big Ford Expedition, has too many spendy problems and I'm sick of the electronic nightmare costs and problems, it's headed for the local junkyard SOON.
My '68 has 120K, never been apart, all original. It uses a little oil but so what, it runs perfect and anybody with half a brain can fix and maintain it. A spare coil, points and condenser in the tool box and you're never stuck, can fix it on the road if need be.
Fuel pump on the engine and not in the stupid gas tank. No failing ECM, no bad coil packs, no anti-lock brakes, no power anything and no leaks. I should have found one years ago, saved myself a lot of money and headaches, I'm an engineer and should have known better.
Anyway now I have my truck, life just got a lot more fun, less expensive.
warre e, in MN
My '68 has 120K, never been apart, all original. It uses a little oil but so what, it runs perfect and anybody with half a brain can fix and maintain it. A spare coil, points and condenser in the tool box and you're never stuck, can fix it on the road if need be.
Fuel pump on the engine and not in the stupid gas tank. No failing ECM, no bad coil packs, no anti-lock brakes, no power anything and no leaks. I should have found one years ago, saved myself a lot of money and headaches, I'm an engineer and should have known better.
Anyway now I have my truck, life just got a lot more fun, less expensive.
warre e, in MN
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 50
From: Charleston, SC
A couple of typical problems for these trucks that fall outside routine maintenance are
1) leaky exhaust manifolds. Old, blown out gaskets, cracked manifolds or loose bolts on newly installed manifolds and gaskets cause leaks. Bolts can wring off in the heads during removal creating wild cursing and lots of extra work.
2) carburetor issues that are difficult to chase down and are somewhat outside routine maintenance, such as heat soak, which causes ethanol gas to boil in the carb bowl and flood the engine and leads to hard starting.
3) front drum brakes can be tricky, but others might disagree. ;-)
4) electrical issues can be baffling, especially after 50 years of tinkering done by previous owners.
I'm sure others will have more suggestions. Does this help?
1) leaky exhaust manifolds. Old, blown out gaskets, cracked manifolds or loose bolts on newly installed manifolds and gaskets cause leaks. Bolts can wring off in the heads during removal creating wild cursing and lots of extra work.
2) carburetor issues that are difficult to chase down and are somewhat outside routine maintenance, such as heat soak, which causes ethanol gas to boil in the carb bowl and flood the engine and leads to hard starting.
3) front drum brakes can be tricky, but others might disagree. ;-)
4) electrical issues can be baffling, especially after 50 years of tinkering done by previous owners.
I'm sure others will have more suggestions. Does this help?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I also have an F100 ('69 Ranger short bed) with a 240 and a C-4 transmission (owned it for a little over 6 years now). I would suggest going through the brake system --particularly if your truck had been sitting up for a while and then you start using it again. The master cylinder and/or wheel cylinders like to fail shortly after you start using the truck again.
It didn't take my brakes long to fail on me, while I was making a 20-mile commute home from work. That was on the 2nd day of ownership of my truck. The right rear wheel cylinder blew AND the MC went out. I spent somewhere over $500.00 dollars rebuilding all four drums (doing all the work myself) with new parts and replacing the MC (I had manual 4-wheel drums then --April, 2011).
I added a brake booster several months later in 2012. In October, 2014, I replaced the whole drum brake front suspension with a disc brake front suspension from a '77 F100. That's one of the single best improvements I've made on my truck and looking back, I wish I had spent the money to do this instead of throwing money at rebuilding the front drums.
It didn't take my brakes long to fail on me, while I was making a 20-mile commute home from work. That was on the 2nd day of ownership of my truck. The right rear wheel cylinder blew AND the MC went out. I spent somewhere over $500.00 dollars rebuilding all four drums (doing all the work myself) with new parts and replacing the MC (I had manual 4-wheel drums then --April, 2011).
I added a brake booster several months later in 2012. In October, 2014, I replaced the whole drum brake front suspension with a disc brake front suspension from a '77 F100. That's one of the single best improvements I've made on my truck and looking back, I wish I had spent the money to do this instead of throwing money at rebuilding the front drums.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
I've had one of my 69 long beds for sense 1992. I can't really think of anything 1 person can't fix by himself/herself with tools and a halfa$$ mechanical brain. Friends are a luxury SOMETIMES. The comoradery is fun but sometimes, if your friend is not very mechanically inclined it's more of a burden.
I think replacing universal joints is a maintenance issue that is not common and can seek up on you.
Great suggestions above and I'll add mine. The 67-69 hood had openings in the inner support panel. I keep extra belts and hoses in the areas.
I think replacing universal joints is a maintenance issue that is not common and can seek up on you.
Great suggestions above and I'll add mine. The 67-69 hood had openings in the inner support panel. I keep extra belts and hoses in the areas.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
A bad "brand new aftermarket" condenser (AKA made in china) for the Dizzy (distributor) happens extremely often now a days. And fools a ton of people. That could be your problem your hero can't figure out.
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