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I took the dash apart to investigate a no brake lights or hazard lights issue (but turn signals work), and i pried off the silver collar around the ignition switch. Now the truck will just crank and not start.
In the pictures you can see there is a little chunk that doesn't look like it broke off, I'm not sure where it goes but maybe that's my issue.
It seemed to fit in how you see it in picture two, but didn't work.
Since I've had the truck that collar would spin freely without the key in, not sure if it's supposed to do that.
Anyone know how to put this back together correctly?
What year truck? I'd just put a new lock cylinder in. Under $30 at my local parts stores for my '87 F150.
VERY CURIOUS ABOUT YOUR TAIL LIGHT SITUATION BECAUSE MINE IS DOING THE EXACT SAME THING.
One thing I found with mine: If you turn on the hazards, then the turn signal, then step on the brake...the brake light for the side you have the signal on for will come on. So I know the bulbs work and the wiring is intact. It has to be a relay or something along those lines.
[Edit: Okay, just noticed the crank/no start in your post. You may need to check your actual "ignition switch" which is the electrical connection located on top of your steering column. If you look on page two or three, you'll see a post on ignition switch basics. Or search my name for threads I've started and you'll see it. If replacing your key lock cylinder doesn't fix the issue, the next thing I would check is the ignition switch.
And if you solve your tail light issue, PLEASE POST HOW YOU FIXED IT OR WHAT IT WAS!!!! I would greatly appreciate knowing!]
Its a 94.
Yeah, the thing with the lights is really weird, every other thread I can find about it ends in a fuse being blown, but I checked all the fuses I could find, and they are fine.
It happened right after I wired in a 4 prong trailer plug.
All the lights worked on the led indicator on the plug end, but then I plugged the trailer in, and I couldn't get any of the brights to come on on the trailer, no turn signals or brake lights, but at that point the trucks lights all worked.
So, I flipped on the hazards, and went to check for voltage at the bulb socket on the trailer. I saw the meter pulsing with the hazards for a couple seconds, then it stopped, and the hazards stopped going on the truck.
Now the dim lights and turn signals work on the truck and trailer, but all I get is a code 15 from the abs light when I try to use the brakes or hazards.
It will flash 15 times, then one long flash, and repeat.
Apparently this is for "memory failure" with the abs module, but others have found a blown fuse to fix this code.
Its a 94.
Yeah, the thing with the lights is really weird, every other thread I can find about it ends in a fuse being blown, but I checked all the fuses I could find, and they are fine.
It happened right after I wired in a 4 prong trailer plug.
All the lights worked on the led indicator on the plug end, but then I plugged the trailer in, and I couldn't get any of the brights to come on on the trailer, no turn signals or brake lights, but at that point the trucks lights all worked.
So, I flipped on the hazards, and went to check for voltage at the bulb socket on the trailer. I saw the meter pulsing with the hazards for a couple seconds, then it stopped, and the hazards stopped going on the truck.
Now the dim lights and turn signals work on the truck and trailer, but all I get is a code 15 from the abs light when I try to use the brakes or hazards.
It will flash 15 times, then one long flash, and repeat.
Apparently this is for "memory failure" with the abs module, but others have found a blown fuse to fix this code.
I edited my first response to add some info.
The ABS light in my truck is on, so that indicates killing two birds with one stone when I dig into that. Hopefully for both of us. My headlights aren't affected and my front hazards work. But since it's a rear antilock brake system (RABS), that makes sense.
The Code 15 according to my reader's manual is a "must correct before continuing diagnostics" message.
My Chilton manual doesn't give any specifics or troubleshooting steps.
I don't even hear the flasher relay clicking, the hazards don't even try to come on for me, not even in the front.
I tried replacing the flasher too. I figure the extra draw from the trailer lights pushed some component over the top, maybe the hazard switch, and it fried.
Hopefully it didn't fry the abs controller.
I need this truck back up soon, I may just take out the part shotgun and replace everything I can get my hands on tomorrow.
OK so I figured out why my truck wasn't starting. I traced power for the fuel pump because I wasn't hearing it click on. It had power at the inertia switch, but not at the connector going to the fuel pump under the bed.
what's in between the two? The fuel tank selector, or in my case, the jumper. Then I realized that blank plate next to the headlight switch had something plugged into the back of it. I assumed it was just a placeholder, spare plug that they hooked to the back of the plate like I'd seen in other vehicles.
But nope, it is a jumper and without that plugged in, the fuel pump circuit is open.
At least I have a new ignition cylinder now, I could take the key out while driving before, and with a hole in your floorboard I'm surprised I made it this far without catastrophe.
As far as the light's go, I put a new combination switch on and it did not change anything. I'm afraid I fried the abs module.
Or... it was just a FUSE I don't understand how I missed it the three times I checked all the fuses...
I set the meter to beep, and checked all the tops of the fuses, and they all beeped. even # 13 which I missed the first time around because it's kind of hidden behind the dash panel, then got excited and figured that must be it!
But it checked out... so I thought. Maybe I have lost my mind.
But in case anyone is wondering how that lock cylinder goes back together, here's a pic.
Just set that key in there like that, and snap it back onto the cylinder.
Also,
If you really don't have a blown #13 fuse, I would trace that circuit for power, starting at the brake switch, see where it ends.
I found out the ABS module is sort of serviceable. It's a metal case so you can pry two tabs up on one side and open the case like a clam. Who knows, if your problem is the abs module its self (located behind the glovebox on my 94) maybe you can repair the board, maybe some solder cracked, or you will see black *poof* marks on something. Could be worth a shot.
Or... it was just a FUSE
I don't understand how I missed it the three times I checked all the fuses...
I set the meter to beep, and checked all the tops of the fuses, and they all beeped. even # 13 which I missed the first time around because it's kind of hidden behind the dash panel, then got excited and figured that must be it!
But it checked out... so I thought. Maybe I have lost my mind.
But in case anyone is wondering how that lock cylinder goes back together, here's a pic.
Just set that key in there like that, and snap it back onto the cylinder.
Also,
If you really don't have a blown #13 fuse, I would trace that circuit for power, starting at the brake switch, see where it ends.
I found out the ABS module is sort of serviceable. It's a metal case so you can pry two tabs up on one side and open the case like a clam. Who knows, if your problem is the abs module its self (located behind the glovebox on my 94) maybe you can repair the board, maybe some solder cracked, or you will see black *poof* marks on something. Could be worth a shot.
Thanks for the update and the information on ABS module and "Fuse 13" --- sounds like a suspense thriller movie title. My truck is a suspense thriller. I'm always in suspense it's gonna crap out on me and I'm thrilled when it doesn't.
I suspect that tab on the old collar engaged the cylinder release lever.
Lol that does sound like a thriller, the trailer would be like
did you fry your abs module or was it... FUSE 13
did that cop recognize you? or do you have no brake lights because of... FUSE 13
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Ignition Switch Broken
