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Converting from r12 to r134a

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Old 05-26-2017, 10:59 AM
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Converting from r12 to r134a

i have a 1987 f150 i have to convert the ac to r134a. I have the new fittings but it says that i have to change the receiver drier because it has to have a different type of desiccant in it i called technical support for 4 seasons to see whats in theirs and i was told that from factory the 1987s have a receiver drier that works for both and he gave me a part number but I couldn't find it all i found was 129 on the bottom. Can anybody tell me what would be in it from factory? It needs to be xh-7
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:35 PM
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Bumping, curious about this also.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:31 PM
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I used one from a 92-96 since they were factory 134a. no issue other than the bracket to mount it was different but easy swap.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Fords4Me
I used one from a 92-96 since they were factory 134a. no issue other than the bracket to mount it was different but easy swap.
is that all you had to change i heard the compressor and condenser may need changing? And did yours have hose clamps or fittings on it?
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:42 PM
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Just put this in and forget converting. Works great on my '87. Takes less of it and the head pressures are low like the truck was designed for.

https://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R134a-R12-Replacement-Refrigerant/dp/B0081T3PP4 https://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R134a-R12-Replacement-Refrigerant/dp/B0081T3PP4
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:56 PM
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My old Fords work quite well on 134. A 91 truck and 90 van.

The bad news is that 134 just went up in price.

The expensive part I had to replace on both was the hose from evaporator to the compressor and on to the condenser. ( one part ) The orifice is cheap and probably should be replaced also.

Print the parts diagram for the AC system and you can see where all of the orings are. Look closely for signs of oil leakage anywhere there is an oring.

What I am aware of is that moisture is the main issue with accumulators. The accumulator needs to be replaced if the system was not pressurized for a long period of time. My van looks like it still has the original and works fine. Pull a vacuum on the system, moisture again.

I have a hard time matching the right oring to air conditioners. If you see a good guide on orings please post it.

Charge the orifice system by cycle time. Google image search should get you a chart.

If you learn what is meant by subcool, superheat, sensible heat and latent heat, you will know more than most AC techs. Learn where your refrigerant is liquid, gas and what happens in between.

July, August and September are coming.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by yardbird
Just put this in and forget converting. Works great on my '87. Takes less of it and the head pressures are low like the truck was designed for.

https://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R.../dp/B0081T3PP4
This product might be propane, not sure.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HardScrabble
This product might be propane, not sure.
It may be butane based, but I really don't care. It's cheap, works good, and is great in place of R-12.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BigDaniel
is that all you had to change i heard the compressor and condenser may need changing? And did yours have hose clamps or fittings on it?
For starters, no hose clamps at all anywhere on A/C.

I had the dreaded "Black Death", and replaced everything. Below are the parts I used and they all work together fine 2 years later. Can't remember which orifice i used. All O-rings should be green. Old hoses are not lined and will seep the 134a.

Four Seasons 37235 Harness Connector
Four Seasons 20916 High Cut-Out Pressure Switch
Four Seasons 54541 Evaporator Core
Spectra Premium 7-4150 A/C Condenser for Ford Bronco
Four Seasons 55712 Hose Assembly
Motorcraft YF-50 A/C Compressor Part
Four Seasons 36494 Switch
Four Seasons 55313 Hose Assembly
Global Parts Distributors 9631868 New Compressor With Kit
FJC 2484 PAG Oil - 8 fl. oz.
4 of Johnsen's (6312) R-134a A/C Refrigerant - 12 oz.
 
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:53 PM
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Thats what im trying to avoid because mine has some fittings but some of it is also hose clamps with barbs where the hose connects
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:52 AM
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There should no hose clamps anywhere on your AC system. It should all be crimped hoses with fittings. Hose clamps will leak and/or pop off with the pressures involved in an AC system.
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BigDaniel
Thats what im trying to avoid because mine has some fittings but some of it is also hose clamps with barbs where the hose connects
It's possible that there is some sort of dealer installed or aftermarket a/c system on it.

My compressor died so I had to replace mine which is when I had it converted to R-134a. I replaced the accumulator and installed a variable orifice. It blows cold enough that I need to move the lever away from full cold.
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 05:58 AM
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I got the conversion kit which is nothing more than a cou Fittings to make it quick connect now and the ac guy couldn't hook up to em because theyre to close so he told me to try one of those do it yourself deals and i tried that i put oil in it and it took that but it wouldn't take the refrigerant any ideas? Theres some kind of electrical part on the receiver drier that unplugged i dont know what it is or does could that be the problem?
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:29 AM
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R-12a


I have been told they getting ready to phase out R134.


DuracoolŽ Technical Information - FAQ'S
 
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Old 06-22-2017, 12:49 PM
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I have heard that too but i was told what they want to replace it with can cause a big fireball inside the cab and engine bay.
 


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