Hello everyone, 74 F100 RWD 360 FE, so I'm in the market for a reman steering box, can anyone tell me if there is any difference between the boxes in the 6cyl and v8's?
Thanks, Randy.

 

I don't think it made a difference based on engine size but rather if it was 2WD or 4WD.

You might look at Redhead or BlueTop for replacement steering boxes, a few more bucks than local store remans but significantly better quality.

 

Thanks for the reply, what made me ask is as I looked for remans Cardone has 2 part #s, one listed for 6cyl, and another for 8's. I couldn't see Ford having 2 different boxes for the same year truck, which is why I asked here (I believe the people here are the true experts). I did look at the Redhead site, but funds are extremely limited, and the regular remans are less than half the price with a lifetime warranty, vs 1year with Redhead's. I'll have to call Cardone and see if they can explain why they have 2 part #'s

 

To rbpmdfacs, got you're email but couldn't reply as it said you've opted not to receive emails lol.

 

power steering versus manual?

 

Nope, Cardone's site lists part #27-7504 RWD and 6cyl, and 27-7505 RWD and 8cyl, both power, go figure. Maybe I'll just go NAPA lol.

 

6 cly-V8 should be no difference in steering box, power versus manual steering and 2wd-4wd, yes it matters. IMO I would not waste your time or $ on a reman steering box. They are half the price with a lifetime warranty for a reason....

Ck out Redheads web site and read why THEY are so much more $ and better quality. https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/aboutprocess/ "Machining out the housings and installing needle bearings".

Have you inspected your rag joint and splines where the steering shaft connects to the input flange? The rest of the front end tight? Ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings? A little play here and there adds up to what might feel like a bad box. Have you tried to adjust the steering box itself?

"For the steering box play - Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clockwise while rotating the steering shaft back and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) (1/2 ton only) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play."

 

Thanks for the reply and info, I've just replaced front rotors, bearings, and all is tight. No play in any of the tie rod ball joints, all feels tight. The original problem was a leaking input shaft seal, and a leaking return line from the cooler (line fixed). After cleaning everything to dbl check leaks and topping off fluid confermed input seal leak.

But also noticed that turning wheel to the left was a harder than turning it right (wheels off the ground), I'm assuming it's the beginning of a valve issue in the box (I don't have much play right to left at all).

My initial plans was to just replace the input seal, but since the box will be coming out and the difference in resistance L/R I figured probably good idea to replace.

On a side note I've done my own work for quite a few years, built engines (Windsor's and FE's), and have done a couple Mustang P/S control valves. But have never been inside a recirculating ball type box. I've toyed with the idea of just getting a master kit a having at it, only because the box feels tight.

 

You can change either seal with the box still on the truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696828

And yes with the harder to turn one way than the other issue, something in the box seems wrong/bad or worn out. If you plan to do on your own, have a catch pan for the ball bearings. Maybe these diagrams will help?

 

Thank you Sir for the link and diagrams.

I must say I'm awe-struck, after looking at the power steering seal replacement thread I've spent the last hour looking at all the other information in your post. The wealth of information you've provided to us all must have taken some time, your time and effort are greatly appreciated. I've bookmarked it as it will probably save me from having to buy a shop manual.

Thank you again, Randy.

 

Thanks for the thanks, but I can not and will not take all the credit. I was lucky enough to have the time to collect the information from many fellow FTE members over the years. So its really a thanks to all.

A cheap Chilton or Hanes manual is a good starter manual. A set of Ford shop paper manuals PRICELESS.

1979 Ford Light Truck Shop Manual- Body, Chassis and Electrical

Or get a set on a CD.
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=272509531209&&&chn=ps

Or Ford Shop Manual Diagrams: 1978-1979 Full Size Shop Manuals

 

So I called Cardone's technical department, and according to them the 6cyl and 8cyl boxes are dimensionally different, which I have a hard time believing. So I called Redhead, and they say that boxes are identical. I also found out the box in my truck is unusual, as it is a 15:1 (3 turns lock to lock). Now I have to go look at the tag and see if the date code matches or was the box changed at some point.

 

Well then I'll rephrase it.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed here, and Thank you for taking the time to put so much of it in one place;