I bought the ford additive and the Nalgene bottles that were recommended off of Amazon, found out those bottles don't have oz increments on them, what do you use to measure out the additive.

 

This would work:

 

Cool deal. I'll stick to one of the formulated brands. Going to do some longer drives and figured ill add it for that.

Might just buy 1/2gl of the stanadyne for $40. Not that bad for 250gl i guess.

 

I just keep 2 bottles of PM22 in my truck. One with additive and one empty and measure and dump at the pump.

 

Not really sure the additive will do much. Back then, there was talk about it causing problems with engines not designed for it. I calculated how much it was going to cost me on the 7.3 diesel for a couple hundred thousand miles and what it would save. I found that it would cost more than it saves. Thing is, people will say "This helps prevent injector failure". If it does, fair enough. All it did was DELAY the occurrence of problems. Based on THIS link, I calculated how much wear it was going to increase by not using it and how much longer a life I get and it wasn't worth it. If it increases the injector life by 10% and figure out what the rebuild cost is and how many miles to expect.

 

Old diesel fuels did not need additives. New fuels, even for old engines do. Exceptions are some truly premium diesel fuels - not those just labeled as such.

If your fuel has 10% or more biofuel, you have Dino-fuel’s lack of lubrication problem licked. Then it is a question of whether you have a good enough cetane rating. In CA, and a few Texas counties fuels are high cetane (45+) because high cetane fuels pollute less so no cetane booster is needed.

Keep water out by draining a bit of fuel out of the separator EVERY month - just pick a day and stick with it.

Drive on.

 

divide the bottle "treats up to _____ gallons" by your tank capacity.

if the bottle says "treats up to 250 gallons" and you have a 50 gallon tank....you add 1/5th of the bottle.

 

The reasons of adding a fuel additive especially to increase octane and remove water is immensely invaluable to try to calculate. Older diesels did not use a 30,000 psi pump to pop off the injectors 4 times on each firing cycle. They did not require or use high pressure common rail systems so they were very forgivable in what was in the fuel and even what fuel was used, i.e. used cooking oil or such. I have always used Optilube XPD in my powerstrokes ever since they switched to the high pressure common rail system. Checking my water drain on the lower filter, I have never ever had a single drop of water contamination. To replace a damaged high pressure system is anywhere from 10 to 13 thousand dollars. I will continue to use my Optilube XPD. Cheap insurance policy. YMMV

 

I've had a water filter in line and in the main filter. Not a drop of water. I have known many people with common rail in Cummins, Powerstroke and Duramax that do not us anything.

I have yet to see a test of even 2 motors, one with snake oil and one without but both have water in the fuel and the one with snake oil does not break and the one without breaks, much less a proper scientific laboratory test.

All they have in common with each other is the reliance on word of mouth, aka unscientific testimonials and cheap enough to hook a buyer in with "what have you got to lose".

 

Do as you wish. I have read many testimonials as to costly replacement of the HPFP system. As I stated cheap insurance. Do you insure your truck?

 

I use and buy the , use the small bottle with the 2 ounce measuring reservoir that I just refill. Use one or not, for the protection it adds from fuel jelling(for those in cold country) and the added lubrication, it is well worth it. 1 ounce treats 25 gallons. $1.18 per ounce. Engine does run smoother after 2 treatments, and haven't been able to get it locally for a while and can tell it needs it. I used their winter treatment on the last tank, but haven't driven it enough to see if it is back to being smoother.

 

Do you really need testimonials? You can always check with the book rate at any shop. I never read testimonials. They are meaningless at best, misleading at worst. How has any of them proven to be effective? Besides "I used it for 10 years. No problems.", that is. If they would show me a lab test that proves it, I don't need testimonials. Lab tests aren't going to be perfect but I can see your methodology and see the efficacy. I'm not sure I care about octane in a diesel system. Cetane, maybe a little. If you want a little more mileage, I would think it is calculable. Using product X, I get 20 mpg. Without using product X, I get 19.5. Subtract the cost of the product and time futzing with it and you get a decent idea.

I do. If you want to call it "insurance", a reasonable definition is "a thing providing protection against a possible eventuality". My insurance company is governed by the US government. Again, not perfect but better than what the companies peddle. A better question is "Would you insure your truck with a company that had no backing of anyone but a few testimonials?". Pass. I don't even know if any of the additives protect against anything. I know that HPFP failure is bad. I don't know how much the additives protect against or if it even does.

 

​​​​​​Talking about snake oil, and their benefits... 20, 25, years ago, or even more now... synthetic oils came about... at first it was 10,000, then 15,000 , miles this oil was good for... now it's even more... It took this long, and the other manufacturers to actually agree that oils could, and do last this long .... MY oil life monitor says my oil is good till 10,000 miles... , There are a lot of people on here that say BS, that is TOTALY B. S. and they change their oil way before... Who is right...??? the average person, (because they feel they are right) or the companies that actually do testing on these products... ???

 

First off, Ford recommends what it recommends for THEIR OWN convenience and if you benefit, so be it. International recommended an ELC for their customers using the SAME engine as Ford. The 7.3 Powerstroke. Ford went with the old IAT with an additive every 15K. Saved them from carrying ELC and not use it as much. Test strips verify that it is not as good a coolant as the ELC.

Would you trust my wife to settle a dispute between us? Probably not. She is a benefactor. Take the oil to be tested. If your oil life monitor says 10000, drain it at 5000 if you want safety, take a sample in midstream and send it out to the labs. I will. I have done it with my other cars with oil quality sensors and they seem pretty close to the monitor. I'm pretty sure the lab I sent it to for testing has little to no stake in Mercedes. Once I am confident of the algorithms being close, I probably will go along with it and test every couple of years to see if something is happening with the engine. Problem I see with people with experience is that they base it on the past. If things don't change, I totally agree. When things change, it is time to re-evaluate. That is where the old timers fail. They don't accept that things have changed. It can be proven one way or the other with an independent test but you have to be willing to learn.

 

(1)(No Octane in diesel fuel, it is however "Cetane".)

(2) (If you go to a dealer and have them do this yes. You can buy the replacement kit which includes everything for as little as just under $ 5,000. if your mechanically inclined to do the work yourself).