That said, if you're a good amateur wrencher, and you study up on the job - know every nut and bolt before you ever crawl under - you could probably pull it off.

Two days does sound constraining. Any public transportation or coworkers living nearby?

With something like this, there's nothing better than being able to take your sweet old time...

 

With Memorial Day coming up, you might have a three day weekend. But it's still gonna be tough, as you're gonna need something you either don't have or can't get

 

Stall speed 1200-1400 rpm with left angled ribs? Stall speed 1600-1800 rpm with right angled ribs. Mainly confused about left or right angled, why would there be a choice? Stall speed..probably either would be fine for me but what do yall think? I rarely tow anything and probably wont with this truck if that matters. Do like it to move when I hit accelerator . Thanks

 

Possibly the stall speed differences are to deal with different gearing and tire sizes?

 

I believe it the rpm range when the converter will engage. That I am less concerned with, I know i don't want a high stall converter. If anyone knows what stock converter would be that would help. Main question is ...I dont like not knowing diffetence between 45 degrees left snd 45 degrees right ribs. I assume this controls dirrection of flow?

 

I started pulling my transmission out today. Some of the bolts were rediculous, but I got them all out. Couple questions . ... instructions I have say, remove nut and bolt from transmission mount to cross member, crank up tranmission jack just enough to hold weight then remove cross member to frame rail bolts and remove cross member. Is there a trick to this because I dont see any way the cross member is coming out without removing entire mount. So other that that I have the trans free of bolts, hoses wires and lines, and I removed driveshaft and dipstick tube. How hard should it be now to separate from engine? It definately is not acting like it wants to come out. Once I remove the cross member and lower the jack some will it "free up" from engine? Appreciate any tips thanks

 

Did you take the four nuts off the torque converter?

After removing the inspection plate, you'll have to rotate the engine to bring the first nut into view. Then rotate the engine 90 degrees, and remove the next nut. Repeat two more times.

I don't remember how many bolts hold the engine to the transmission, but it seems there are two more, that you can't see, and are really hard to access

Might need to drop the starter, too

 

Yes 4 nuts off torque converter and 4 trans to engine bolts. Starter too

 

All of my tranny pulling experience is with C4's in my F-100, but when I've done it I always have to remove the cross member that supports the transmission and the one toward the front of the truck where the tranny and engine meet. Otherwise the bellhousing won't drop down. Once you have the torque converter loose, the transmission should move around pretty freely. Be careful pulling it out, the torque converter is heavy and will want to drop forward on you. A little sketchy to do with a regular jack, but it can be done.

You didn't by chance put a pressure gauge on the transmission and check pressures did you? Do you have a temp gauge on the transmission?

The delay to get your transmission in gear, I've read can be caused by leaky seals. A pretty common problem for older transmissions.

As a side note, I'm having similar problems on my transmission. It was brand new from TCI, wasn't happy sent it back and had them re-build it... nothing changed. I'm dealing with it for now because I don't want to keep funneling money in and I always have the manual shifting on the column... I'm interested to see if this solves your problems. My recommendation would be to either do it yourself or find someone that will rebuild/install for you with some sort of warranty. For me, hindsight is 20/20 I suppose. My theory for now is that it is a pressure problem internally as mine only acts up when the tranny is warm.

Good luck!

 

There are more than four bolts for engine-to-transmission. I think 6

 

I think there are 6 too. There are two on top of the engine behind the carb - those may be the ones you missed. Easiest to get to them by removing air cleaner and climbing into the engine bay.

 

So when I did the rebuild on my 79 regular cab l made note of the numbers because I was curious if the trans was original to truck. Pretty sure its not now. Does anyone know what all the numbets mean? "D5UP 7006 AA" I believe the D is for the 70's decade and the 5 means 1975, the U is where I get confused. I understood that the third character represents the type of vehicle it went in to originally, but in the list of vehicles and code letters, I don't see a "U".
There was another number stamped on bottom of trans by edge of pan, I did not take a picture of it like the other number but I do remember it starting with 1176 which I took to mean that it went into service Nov of 1976. I can get back under there and get the whole number if it helps tell any of its story. Thx in advance for any wisdom.

 

So when I did the rebuild on my 79 regular cab l made note of the numbers because I was curious if the trans was original to truck. Pretty sure its not now. Does anyone know what all the numbets mean? "D5UP 7006 AA" I believe the D is for the 70's decade and the 5 means 1975, the U is where I get confused. I understood that the third character represents the type of vehicle it went in to originally, but in the list of vehicles and code letters, I don't see a "U".
There was another number stamped on bottom of trans by edge of pan, I did not take a picture of it like the other number but I do remember it starting with 1176 which I took to mean that it went into service Nov of 1976. I can get back under there and get the whole number if it helps tell any of its story. Thx in advance for any wisdom.

 

U = econoline van

 

Good to know, appreciate the insight.