first builds for 6.7
#1
first builds for 6.7
Hello, I'm new to this forum and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me when ford started to build the 6.7 trucks for consumers. I know they started in 2010, but I was wondering if anyone know when the first date of production started. The reason I ask is because I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and was wondering if its affected with all the problems that I have read online about the first builds. I have owned this truck new from the factory so just trying to figure if I need to trade it or it will be ok down the road.
#3
Did not purchase that as I deleted everything at 8,000 miles. I have read on other forums that they started producing these for the consumer on 2-15-10, but I don't know how much of fact that is because when I put my vin # in mine was built 1-12-10. I'm just a little confused and trying to see when they actually started building these for the consumer. Any input on the date would be great. Thanks.
#4
#5
cut off date for the bad valves was 2/11 after that the valves should be good. so manufactured during or after march you are ok. If you deleted at 8000 miles you shouldn't have a problem as the valves were failing because of the fuel getting injected on the exhaust stroke on number 8 cylinder which would cause the valve to fail because of improper heat treatment. you still have ceramic bearing in the turbo though. I'm now at 120,000 miles and still waiting for failure. I maintain as best I can and don't sweat it any more
#6
#7
I'm going to preface this with I'm not a metallurgist. The early valve weren't heat treated correctly. When the #8 cylinder gets injected on the exhaust stroke to heat up the exhaust and clean the dpf it also heats the valves. I'm not sure what the failure is (cyclic fatigue or elongation stress fracture or what) but the valves break. So if you have no regen the valves shouldn't break because as far as I've read or heard its only number 8 cylinder that fails. Therefore deleted should be good. most of the threads I've seen is failure between 40,000 and 120,000 so I would imagine that a deleted truck should be able to go much longer without regens
Trending Topics
#8
I personally put a 145,000 miles on my early build 6.7L equipped truck. I've seen so many other 2011 trucks with 150,000-200,000 miles on them and they are still running strong. So odds are that your truck still has lots of life left.
I don't know what the failure rate is. But it's not terribly high. But for those affected by it, it is terribly expensive.
I don't know what the temps are at the valves. But I do know I never saw high temps at the 1st EGT probe unless it was during an active regen. Most heavy towing would produce EGT1 temps of 1000° F where I might see close to 1200° temps during active regen. So doing a delete on your truck has probably reduced the temps your #8 valve will see, and as mentioned above extended it's life.
I don't know what the failure rate is. But it's not terribly high. But for those affected by it, it is terribly expensive.
I don't know what the temps are at the valves. But I do know I never saw high temps at the 1st EGT probe unless it was during an active regen. Most heavy towing would produce EGT1 temps of 1000° F where I might see close to 1200° temps during active regen. So doing a delete on your truck has probably reduced the temps your #8 valve will see, and as mentioned above extended it's life.
#9
It is very hard to find FACTS about this
Some still thing that it is the glow plug tip braking off that causes the problem.
From my resurch i believe that this is a problem for less than 1% of the pickup trucks, cab and chassis are much higher.
I have never seen anything that said FOR SURE that the valves where not heat treated correctly, or if it is just some or all .
I also found that some believe that it is related to regens because it seems to happen on only one cyl. But I have read other posts that said all the ex valves where cracked on one C&C truck.
I did do delete my 2011 just to be safe. I bought it used with 125,000 miles, it currently has 135,000 on it.
I did think about doing a head or valve swap on it but decided i would just not worry about it and deal with it if it happens.
I got a good enough deal on this truck that I can replace the motor and still be into it less than any of the comparable 2012 and newer trucks I have looked at so I am just going to enjoy the truck.
I really wish we could get a first hand report of what exactly the problem was. What are the major contributors that do cause it to happen on just a few of the trucks, and what (if anything) could be done to prevent it from happening.
Some still thing that it is the glow plug tip braking off that causes the problem.
From my resurch i believe that this is a problem for less than 1% of the pickup trucks, cab and chassis are much higher.
I have never seen anything that said FOR SURE that the valves where not heat treated correctly, or if it is just some or all .
I also found that some believe that it is related to regens because it seems to happen on only one cyl. But I have read other posts that said all the ex valves where cracked on one C&C truck.
I did do delete my 2011 just to be safe. I bought it used with 125,000 miles, it currently has 135,000 on it.
I did think about doing a head or valve swap on it but decided i would just not worry about it and deal with it if it happens.
I got a good enough deal on this truck that I can replace the motor and still be into it less than any of the comparable 2012 and newer trucks I have looked at so I am just going to enjoy the truck.
I really wish we could get a first hand report of what exactly the problem was. What are the major contributors that do cause it to happen on just a few of the trucks, and what (if anything) could be done to prevent it from happening.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kfederig
2017+ Super Duty
27
10-29-2017 04:12 PM