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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

acceleration problem

Old May 7, 2017 | 04:05 PM
  #16  
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It is electronic ignition and the carb is a new 600 cfm edlebrock just put it on 4 months ago. I have a shop manual on the way. Tun up was done 2 months ago.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
No you're not. Almost half an inch plug gap...
Hahahaha you had to tell us both twice. Sorry, brain fart. .035
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
No you're not. Almost half an inch plug gap...
Don't tell me what I'm not. I'm telling you you what I am. It's not a suggestion. It's a statement of fact.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:47 PM
  #19  
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well folks it is fixed. I am not sure what part of what i did fixed it but its done. my vacuum advance hose had cracks on it so i replaced it. I messed with the timing by ear to get a smother idle as i was unable to see the markings on the damper pulley. Tighten the number 5 plug and seated the number 6 pug wire on to plug. so your guess is as good as mine as to what fixed it. I am sure it was a combination of things. Thank you all for your help and advice. This is a great forum. I will be posting what 360 build i will do. Is it true that the 360 block has deeper crank wells then the 390? so i could put a 428 crank in it.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:55 PM
  #20  
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Sounds good, but just keep in mind that if it starts turning over hard, especially when warmed up, then you went too far advanced on the timing. Sometimes what sounds good at idle, is still just too far.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
Don't tell me what I'm not. I'm telling you you what I am. It's not a suggestion. It's a statement of fact.
No...Testers right. I did it too. It's not .40 that is almost a half an inch. we left the zeros out. .035 .040 etc
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:01 PM
  #22  
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Ahite smarty pants. Shup!
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by KOT390
Sounds good, but just keep in mind that if it starts turning over hard, especially when warmed up, then you went too far advanced on the timing. Sometimes what sounds good at idle, is still just too far.
OK thank you for the advice. I will pay attention when turning over.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:03 PM
  #24  
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I do have to admit, I was getting a little red. Ted, I apologize, KOT390, I still think you're a smart a$$. But I like ya
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:25 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
Don't tell me what I'm not. I'm telling you you what I am. It's not a suggestion. It's a statement of fact.
LOL, hate to be a dick sometimes but decimals matter. I was just pointing that out.

One good old boy who does ignition stuff for a living sez that plug gap is a function of the head design and combustion chamber and shouldn't really be changed. A wide gap does mean the coil runs hotter and there is more potential for arcing or crossfire and rotors and cap wear out quicker. One thing to keep in mind too, once electronic ignition came into wide use they ditched the smaller distributor cap and increased the diameter, to keep the electrons going where they need to. If I recall Pertronix sez can open up .004" over points, or to .039" I don't think it matters much, and isn't a factor here in this particular problem.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 10:45 PM
  #26  
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You may have a worn timing chain. Moving the distributor is a solution, but not a good one.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 05:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
I do have to admit, I was getting a little red. Ted, I apologize, KOT390, I still think you're a smart a$$. But I like ya
Love you too Pal!! LoL
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
LOL, hate to be a dick sometimes but decimals matter. I was just pointing that out.

One good old boy who does ignition stuff for a living sez that plug gap is a function of the head design and combustion chamber and shouldn't really be changed. A wide gap does mean the coil runs hotter and there is more potential for arcing or crossfire and rotors and cap wear out quicker. One thing to keep in mind too, once electronic ignition came into wide use they ditched the smaller distributor cap and increased the diameter, to keep the electrons going where they need to. If I recall Pertronix sez can open up .004" over points, or to .039" I don't think it matters much, and isn't a factor here in this particular problem.
I understand. There's a difference between a .5 Johnson and a .05 Johnson.

I had not heard of the cross fire warning. I an running a hotter coil and 8mm wires.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by scottzilla
well folks it is fixed. I am not sure what part of what i did fixed it but its done. my vacuum advance hose had cracks on it so i replaced it. I messed with the timing by ear to get a smother idle as i was unable to see the markings on the damper pulley. Tighten the number 5 plug and seated the number 6 pug wire on to plug. so your guess is as good as mine as to what fixed it. I am sure it was a combination of things. Thank you all for your help and advice. This is a great forum. I will be posting what 360 build i will do. Is it true that the 360 block has deeper crank wells then the 390? so i could put a 428 crank in it.
We love happy endings....
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 04:08 PM
  #30  
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Kumbaia boys.
 
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