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My door won't open after I replaced the broken door handle. Looking at the mechanism that pulls the cable, it's worn out at the rivet circled in the pic. I don't need the cable, nor the latch. Anyone know where I can buy a new one of these without spending 140.00?
Salvage yard? You don't suppose you could drill the rivet out and replace it with another rivet or a bolt do ya? I would think,that if I was going to trade it out for a used one,I would have it out anyway.In which case I might as well just drill it out and bolt it.
My door won't open after I replaced the broken door handle. Looking at the mechanism that pulls the cable, it's worn out at the rivet circled in the pic.
I don't need the cable, nor the latch, I need the (pictured) door lock remote control. Anyone know where I can buy a new one of these without spending 140.00?
Oh, Yeah, Year, Make, Model..
It's a '95 F-150 LH inside door handle mechanism.
I took it apart this morning to see if I could do some creative welding: the rivet here is worn quite a bit, and the hole is elongated some as well. unless I can find a good one at the wrecking yard, I plan to do some creative welding at the arrow points. As can be seen here, there were other problems. Had to take the pin out from the center of the spring. The vice was my friend for this. The center pin was bent before removal. I did some creative hammering on this to straighten the hole and smooth out the surface where the rivet rides. The rivet is hardened - I tried drilling it first. Had to grind it in order to extract it. This is the hardened rivet. it's in fine shape.
So All told I've spent about 45 minutes fiddling with it. I consider it good education rather than wasted time. Fixing this part is possible but, if I find a good replacement part, I'll use it instead.
Look into replacing or adjusting the cable. Wear/damage like this, along with damage to the door metal, are typical results of the door gradually getting harder to open because of cable stretch. The operator compensates (not even consciously) by pulling harder and harder on the handle over time. Some have even broken the plastic handle, and replaced it with the old-school metal one, thinking the plastic is at fault. All the while, it's just the cable.
Look into replacing or adjusting the cable. Wear/damage like this, along with damage to the door metal, are typical results of the door gradually getting harder to open because of cable stretch. The operator compensates (not even consciously) by pulling harder and harder on the handle over time. Some have even broken the plastic handle, and replaced it with the old-school metal one, thinking the plastic is at fault. All the while, it's just the cable.
I expect that is why one can only buy the mechanism as a complete unit (latch, cable, and actuator) My problem with that is financial. I just don't want to shell out $140.00, even though I know it's the correct way to repair this problem.
My cable looks relatively new, and is free and easy to move even under load.
I thought about adding a bolster to where the cable sits in the latch, in order to lengthen said cable a quarter inch so it'll work again.
Well, it turns out I was wrong. The latch is worn as badly as the actuator. I went hunting in the local yards, and, apparently everyone else's latch, actuator, and cable is bad, because in 10 correct year and style trucks I found exactly 0 latches, 0 cables, and 1 actuator which was worn worse than mine. I also noted all the broken mounts on the doors. 9 of 10.
Guess I'll pony up for new parts.
I am now better educated.
Us '93-95 guys kinda got thrust under the bus on this part. I wonder if anyone has successfully converted one back to the older rod style door actuator?
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