Got some great advice from you guys, thanks a lot a big help.
My Truck, 1972 F250 Sport Custom LB SC with auto & 390 engine.

After getting the kinks out of my truck I'm going to paint it very soon. The previous owner had the truck primed, whether that was good or bad it's done. I've been quoted $4,500 to $5,000 for a new paint job, och! But while I'm prepared to pay that, I need to ask....Is Maaco really as bad as purported? They have levels of paint jobs, I'd use the best they offered and they give years of warranty for their top job. One in my area has an A+ rating at the BBB in business for 20 years another has a C-. I don't need a show truck just a good paint job, I just don't want to pay more than I need to. Any advice?

 

One suggestion. You can save some cost by doing a lot of disassembly yourself. Trim, bumpers, grill, door handles, mirrors, windshield and back window. A lot of paint shops will just mask off everything. Makes for a far better job if the paint goes right under everything. If you're planning to spend that much on a paint job you might want some new trim. I got rid of the lower trim and filled the holes. Down the road if you change something like window rubber it probably won't line up the same and you risk seeing a paint line. Also if it's ever going to peel a bit it's more likely to peel at a tape line edge. You could also remove the box and mount it on a crude 2 x 4 frame with lawnmower wheels.

 

do you have a junior college close to you.? some times you can get the students to paint your truck. you might not get a warranty.if they will not paint it you could always take the class yourself. that,s how i painted my first f-100 back 1979. man has it really been that long.?

 

Concur with UniMoe.

Paint jobs are 90 percent prep and 10 percent techique and paint. It is possible to get a nice paint job if you invest your time and elbow grease..... The less they have to mask the better the finished product tends to be.

Disassemble as much as you can... mirrors, emblems, trim, wipers, antenna, door handles, grill shell, bumpers, etc as recommended above... Remember to bag and tag the hardware.

I'd scuff the entire truck with a red Scotchbrite so promote adhesion everywhere. Production painters are typically "lazy".... The rockers tend to be the least coated.

Clean, scrub, and hose off every nook and cranny. That way the painter won't blow dirt out of a crevice (like door jambs) and land on the finish.

Install a set of roller wheels and tires where overspray won't be a big deal.

Drive to the shop only enough to be legal... tail lights and headlights. Then when you arrive, remove them, the buckets, and bag and zip-tie seal the harnesses and plugs. It's a royal pain to remove overspray.

Lastly, ask them if your rig can be the last vehicle shot that day so it can stay in the booth overnight... less chance of dirt landing while the paint/clear is still soft.

Three coats of clear... enough to cut and buff.

 

What HIO said with exception, wet sand with 600 grit and the clear they use is Omni brand. At least they do down here. It's pretty good but only has a 3-4 life expectancy. 3 or more coats of HIGH SOLID clear. One color paint job, I do 4 coats of clear (about 6 mil coverage) so I can sand and buff one coat off. Multi colors and tape lines the rule changes as required.
I am NOT a painter by trade but I have custom painted a poop ton of motorcycles and enough cars and trucks I lost count.

 

I don't have a problem with Maaco as long as the particular location has the good feedback and reputation you mentioned. I believe every, if not most, are individual franchises. So an owner who's willing to pay for a GOOD painter will have a better reputation and you'll get a better paint job. A cheapskate will net a worse reputation and so is the quality of work you'd get.
"You Get What You Pay For".

 

This is long so bare with me.
I have a dilemma and need advice. My '72 f250 has been primed by the previous owner, but I know the trucks history as it was my brother in laws truck. The paint underneath is the original. It was faded and had some light surface rust that was removed before priming. No pealing. (I wish he just spot primed it)
Most Paint shops I spoke with will paint it but won't guarantee the job due to not knowing whats underneath the primer. (can't fault them) however I know it's a good base and it “should” be okay. I just don't want to gamble thousands on a hunch. I plan to strip it to the metal myself to be sure using aircraft stripper and power sanding. I'm disabled and suffer from slight O L D, I can do the work in smaller sections or whole panels at a time, it'll just take me some time, possibly weeks. All trim removed of course. How do I protect the bare metal until I'm done with the whole truck? Don't want to put new primer on it as I want them to see the bare metal so they can have a clean canvas to do their thing and have no excuses as well. Plus doing this makes it a whole lot cheaper. I was thinking on using basic car wax on the bare metal to protect it. Wax can be easily removed before sending it to the shop. The truck will be under a carport as well. What do you think, will waxing work for a short time?
Thanks

 

You really don't need to remove all paint! Just remove that primer at best to factory color paint/primer.
Then let the paint shop do the rest.

I had a friend who had their car painted by Maaco about 12 yrs ago from Black to white plus door jams it was around $1200 Large 4door Honda and they did a great job.

I may end up have my truck done by them also. Thiers is a loco Maaco here in town and they have painted many show looking vehicles sitting out the parking lot that they just painted. All looked great all were metallic type paint.

Orich

 

I agree, but how do I get the primer off without removing paint as well? Sanding may be used I guess, but lots of labor which I'd have a problem with, not saying I can't, just difficult. I have a DA and other sanders. I'll try that first, then I could always move on to stripping if need be. Thanks

 

Make sure and posts some pics! I'd love to watch the progress. Take your time, the speed of right

 

I had Pebbles (my truck) painted at One Day (now Maaco)
I prepped the truck my self and stripped everything off chrome wise .
I wasn't going for a show truck , just a good driver that would fade out to original paint Patina .
I got what i wanted , she is now starting to fade . You get what you pay for when it comes to paint .
pic

 

da with 180 will remove spray can primer while saving original paint . I recommend sealing the original paint with Epoxy primer before top coating with modern paint.
Modern paint can freak out old Lacquer or enamel paints . then it's strip to bare metal time .

 

before pic

 

I'd say it depends on what you want. Just a 20 footer, daily driver then go for the Maaco. If you start tearing the truck apart, that's like picking a scab and you will have a hard time deciding where to stop, pretty soon it's off the frame for new cab mounts and floors, you found rust you didn't know you had and have to have body panels welded in, the engine is getting rebuilt and you've spent $15000. Did that exact think on my 72 F250 a couple decades ago.

 

My brother in law had the Truck 10 years. The truck was in great shape in every way then. He had the engine and trans rebuilt about 6 years ago. It drive great. He replaced the compressor as well but I need to check it out it's not working. All I need to do is that and change the rag joint. Got new tires. No dents. Already restored or bought new trim for areas that need replacement. Have a garage but bought a carport for it so it will be protected. The Maaco near me has a A+ rating a the BBB a good reviews, they've been there for over 20 years. They will remove the bed to paint the cab and bed, they will remove all molding and lights. They would guarantee 5 years (prorated) if I didn't have the primer on, all for 3k as is, not bad. Body shops 5k and up. If I remove everything I'm sure it would be cheaper.