Injector replacement in my future
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
Failed copper would give bubbles.
Failed upper o-ring gives fuel in oil, leaks around the injector body.
Do the bubble test to make sure the newly sealed injector is sealed at the copper. If not, your going back for a new one and possibly a hydo locked hole.
Failed upper o-ring gives fuel in oil, leaks around the injector body.
Do the bubble test to make sure the newly sealed injector is sealed at the copper. If not, your going back for a new one and possibly a hydo locked hole.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 646
Likes: 4
From: Blue Springs, mo
Watson, I should not try to replace the top injector seal? That doesn't jive with the video I watched earlier that said if the nipple cups were loose to replace their seals and be suspect of the nipple cup to injector seal?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
They have a sharp edge, lift straight up. On the rail you remove, check the top seal on all that banks injectors, if nicked, replace them... They come in the injector seal kit.
I replaced mine, if you take an injector out and the seals in the kit, do it. It could be an issue for a hot no-start, so do them. But were you going to do all or just one.
The nipple cups are torqued at 75lbs with an o-ring under them. IF the nipple cup is loose, you can wiggle it easily, replace the o-ring under the cup. It takes a special socket and the kit for all 8 was $85.
Oil them well with fresh oil. The entire injector should be dripping. Slide the rail straight down, don't nick a top seal and torque it down.
If you think that you torqued an injector hold down to tight, replace it! Clean the injector bore very well, brush kit at Harbor Freight works. T-40 for injectors, 24lbs
Not a hard job, go slow, be very clean and double check the torque. Torque it once and check it once. Make sure the hold down holes are free from oil or they won't torque.
The nipple cup to injector seals pretty well.
I replaced mine, if you take an injector out and the seals in the kit, do it. It could be an issue for a hot no-start, so do them. But were you going to do all or just one.
The nipple cups are torqued at 75lbs with an o-ring under them. IF the nipple cup is loose, you can wiggle it easily, replace the o-ring under the cup. It takes a special socket and the kit for all 8 was $85.
Oil them well with fresh oil. The entire injector should be dripping. Slide the rail straight down, don't nick a top seal and torque it down.
If you think that you torqued an injector hold down to tight, replace it! Clean the injector bore very well, brush kit at Harbor Freight works. T-40 for injectors, 24lbs
Not a hard job, go slow, be very clean and double check the torque. Torque it once and check it once. Make sure the hold down holes are free from oil or they won't torque.
The nipple cup to injector seals pretty well.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 646
Likes: 4
From: Blue Springs, mo
Well I'm after a fuel leak which sound like the upper side seal on the injector.
I'll for sure do the bubble test when done.
Based on what I told you about my X and the injectors, would you guys just re ring them our start replacing them?
I'll for sure do the bubble test when done.
Based on what I told you about my X and the injectors, would you guys just re ring them our start replacing them?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
They aren't coding and run fine.... $6 or $200+ each
It's really not to hard of a job if you have a handful of tools and working on it doesn't scare you.
Very good chance a new one leaks at the top o-ring as well.
It's really not to hard of a job if you have a handful of tools and working on it doesn't scare you.
Very good chance a new one leaks at the top o-ring as well.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
Re-ring them. I've seen original injectors still working fine at 280k, why throw money at them until they need it?
Side note, if you don't have one get a good torque wrench for the re-install, then clean out the hold down holes really well, and be really careful on the torque setting. Off the top of my head I'm remembering 26 lb-ft is the spec, so get one that's rated to be 3-4% accurate at THAT specific setting. Example:
5-75 lb-ft. Accuracy: +/-4% CW, +/-6% CCW @ 20 to 100% of Full Scale Meaning it's +/-4% at the 26 lb-ft setting.
Side note, if you don't have one get a good torque wrench for the re-install, then clean out the hold down holes really well, and be really careful on the torque setting. Off the top of my head I'm remembering 26 lb-ft is the spec, so get one that's rated to be 3-4% accurate at THAT specific setting. Example:
5-75 lb-ft. Accuracy: +/-4% CW, +/-6% CCW @ 20 to 100% of Full Scale Meaning it's +/-4% at the 26 lb-ft setting.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 646
Likes: 4
From: Blue Springs, mo
Never had a single code for an injector or anything else for that matter. It runs great except it needs more power. I'll be looking to do an atlas 40 when done.
Before I worked at the ford plant i was a Porsche, Audi, vw tech for 15 years. I've got the tools but I'll admit I've been hesitant to dig into this 6.0. A Porsche makes sense to me, some of this powerstroke stuff is overly complex or at least seems that way. Ive never been intimidated to dig into anything Porsche or Audi wether it's mine or a customers. I think I just need to jump in with both feet and pop my cherry. I'll probably do just fine. I'm usually very detail oriented so that should help me.
So new injector top seals are prone to leak new? Guess that's why you said not to touch them? I'll check them out and the nipple cups closely. I'd hate to put it back together and have A problem I didn't have or a no start.
Before I worked at the ford plant i was a Porsche, Audi, vw tech for 15 years. I've got the tools but I'll admit I've been hesitant to dig into this 6.0. A Porsche makes sense to me, some of this powerstroke stuff is overly complex or at least seems that way. Ive never been intimidated to dig into anything Porsche or Audi wether it's mine or a customers. I think I just need to jump in with both feet and pop my cherry. I'll probably do just fine. I'm usually very detail oriented so that should help me.
So new injector top seals are prone to leak new? Guess that's why you said not to touch them? I'll check them out and the nipple cups closely. I'd hate to put it back together and have A problem I didn't have or a no start.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Just to Help clarify (I hope), the injector sees pressure from three different systems.
First is combustion pressure at the tip and bottom copper washer. The bubble test is looking for air from the cylinder being forced back through the fuel system and showing up in the filter housing.
Second is fuel pressure, it's applied to the central body of the injector and commonly leaks between the injector and cylinder head and into the oil. That's the test with the valve covers off and running the fuel pump.
Third is oil pressure, it applied to the injector at the top and commonly leaks from the upper o-ring or nipple cup seals. Visual inspection with engine running but be aware the injector discharges oil during normal operation, better is an air test.
General condition of the nipple cups can be checked by moving them around (swiveling) with the oil rail removed from the injectors. There should be some resistance, if the move around easily the o-rings are likely shot. Be sure to return them to center after moving them so they line up correctly on reinstall.
First is combustion pressure at the tip and bottom copper washer. The bubble test is looking for air from the cylinder being forced back through the fuel system and showing up in the filter housing.
Second is fuel pressure, it's applied to the central body of the injector and commonly leaks between the injector and cylinder head and into the oil. That's the test with the valve covers off and running the fuel pump.
Third is oil pressure, it applied to the injector at the top and commonly leaks from the upper o-ring or nipple cup seals. Visual inspection with engine running but be aware the injector discharges oil during normal operation, better is an air test.
General condition of the nipple cups can be checked by moving them around (swiveling) with the oil rail removed from the injectors. There should be some resistance, if the move around easily the o-rings are likely shot. Be sure to return them to center after moving them so they line up correctly on reinstall.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 646
Likes: 4
From: Blue Springs, mo
Gotcha. That all makes sense and was just as I figured. Is it possible that a compromised copper washer would allow compression to force fuel up the body and into the head thus diluting the oil? I guess it doesn't really matter at that point cuz all the o rings would be smoked and the injector possibly damaged.
Thanks everyone for your recommendations and help. I'll keep you ask posted. I may not tackle this job until work shuts down in July. We'll see.
Thanks everyone for your recommendations and help. I'll keep you ask posted. I may not tackle this job until work shuts down in July. We'll see.
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