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Thinking of placing order for a new truck sometime next month. Will be first time I've ever ordered a vehicle, usually by used. When my work slows down next month will look at selling my 97 F350 and 11 F350. Have not had the 97 long but long enough to determine need something newer or much older to meet my reliability requirements. The 11 F350 is nice but always in fear something expensive will happen under the hood when drive it. Have had it 2 years and had to replace radiator and had an injector eject itself. Plus is a cab/chassis flatbed and would like a regular bed instead of the flatbed.
Plan to order F350XLT, SRW, 6.2L, 4.3 gears, 4x2, 8' bed, camper package, either crew cab or super cab with carpet delete. Don't really need a crew cab but like the larger fuel tank and think it may ride better with longer wheel base. Primary use will be to tow my gooseneck trailer used as a toy hauler (old tractors mostly) and secondary use will be a backup vehicle to my work truck (13 F150). Probably will not see more than 7k miles a year and plan to keep it for minimum of 20 years. Trailer is a triple axle rated 21k, would probably not ever be loaded to the maximum except for some very short trips (<10 miles), most of time would be hauling 7-12k lbs of equipment. Seldom tow on interstates, mostly state/county highways. My goal is to get something reliable, comfortable, keep cost to minimum. After much study and previous experience with diesels believe the 6.2 will be more reliable in long run and have at least 8500 other reasons to avoid the 6.7. After all today 6.2 gasser is rated to tow about the same as the max 2005 F350 with powerstroke and DRW was rated and has torque numbers similar to 90's powerstroke (albeit at higher RPM). I don't recall hearing much complaints that trucks at that time frame were lacking in towing ability. Don't have a need for 4x4, 4x2 should ride better (no solid front axle) and get better fuel economy and less to go wrong. When get off road usually hook the trailer to a tractor, much easier to maneuver in tight spaces that way anyway.
Will probably have to purchase without being able to test drive one ahead of time. In my part of country finding a F350 with 6.2 is difficult, finding a 2 wheel drive or 4.3 gears is almost impossible. Do have some concerns that you guys may be able to alleviate.
My questions / concerns.
Is there any significant difference in ride quality between 6.7 equipped models and 6.2 models. 6.7's are much more plentiful for test drives but have heavier engine.
How much does the camper package option affect ride. I want the higher payload and sway bars but don't find many on lots with that option to test. May be a moot point since do want the payload ability.
Height of the truck is a big concern, if I was 8 ft tall would not be an issue but only 6 ft tall. Lifting 50lbs over the bed rails is not as easy now as was 30 years ago and bed rails are a good foot higher than they were 30 years ago. Even in bed tool boxes would be of limited use, would not be able to reach in or see much from the ground. Does anyone know of good options to lower the truck height or toolbox that can be mounted in the side of the bed. I can order with 17" wheels from XL but that is rather insignificant difference. Only solutions I see are to get the tail gate step and extended running boards. Getting the crew cab and using the back seat area for tools / chains / etc storage is another option.
Bed liners, I hate the plastic slide in type, usually throw them away when by used truck with one already in it. Is there really any real benefit to spray in liners? Will still dent etc., use a sheet of plywood for my F150 mostly because stuff doesn't slide around as much.
Roof clearance lights, I've alway liked the look. What are the drawbacks besides another 5 or so bulbs to keep working that you can't reach without a ladder. Are there any benefits?
Upfitter switches, worth while? Doubtful would ever add a permanently installed winch. Maybe a transfer tank at some point to increase travel distance between fill ups or to transfer gas to other equipment. What else could they be used for, maybe I'm overlooking something obvious.
What is typical lead time from order placement. 8wks? Don't want new truck to arrive when still trying to sell both of the others. Ideally would have both sold before took delivery and made the final payment for the new truck.
Minor things like color will decide later but leaning toward plain white or silver or metallic. I almost never clean the outside of a vehicle so needs to be something that doesn't show dirt too much.
Thoughts will be appreciated, when purchasing a vehicle that cost more than first house want to make sure to get it right.
Don't have to get a crew to get larger fuel tank, it comes with the 8ft box.
Without 4 * 4 definately go for the locking rear diff.
Gas vs diesel, I think your right for how few Km, I do have to say if you ever load the gooseneck you should be running a max tow dually. I will say, the diesel towing that gooseneck will be no comparison to the gas motor, but if you are thinking that few miles a year, gas motor pis simpler, easier to maintain, and can handle sitting better.
Ride quality is the same, really, they code the springs for the different weight motors.
Camper gets you the overloads, actually empty, this is a better ride, it also gets you the stabilizer on the rear, you want it, or you will end up adding it.
Rear step and pole, and the extended running boards for box height, though a 2 wheel drive won't be that bad, yes, you can lower the rear an extra inch or two or load it up.
Definately lines spray in liner, not factory in my opinion. I agree the mastic liners suck. I would add a bed Matt or plywood if loading rock or brick. I had that in my 2005 diesel.
I like the roof lights, I didn't get them, rumors of leaking, but if your ordering, definately I would check this box.
6 upfitter switches, auxiliary lights, front, rear, side, fuel transfer pumps, ect. Can't be added, best to order if you are ordering. Makes adding anything super easy, they are already switched and relayed, and use the pass through wires.
For color for your needs white is probably the first choice, I had a silver truck,p it was also great for not showing the dirt but when washed it looked better than white in my opinion.
As for test driving, I would test a few different 2017s. They ride much better, 6 speed transmission is awesome, especially for towing, manual mode, tow/haul, engine breaking on the diesel is much improved.
If you want to stay away from a diesel don't test one, or you will be ordering one������
Minor things like color will decide later but leaning toward plain white or silver or metallic. I almost never clean the outside of a vehicle so needs to be something that doesn't show dirt too much.
Thoughts will be appreciated, when purchasing a vehicle that cost more than first house want to make sure to get it right.
Here ya go...
1. I haven't heard of any significant differences in "ride quality" between different engine types, only in acceleration performance, towing. Overall, you will find that the SD rides pretty well, is quiet, and not your dad's diesel or HD pickup.
2. I have the camper package. It does affect the ride, in that it makes it a little bit more choppy, as the springs are stiffer. Think "I really shouldn't try to drink from this cup while driving" kind of choppy, as it will spill all over you. But, that being said, it is way more tame on smooth roads, and I'm enjoying the extra payload.
3. Height of truck will be a smidgen taller with the camper or plow package. If you are getting a 4x4, it will be taller than just about any stock 1500 on the road, and the bed rails as well. You will need a step ladder, running board, or tailgate step to help out when loading. No doubt. But it looks awesome stock, and even better with a 2.5" lift. Ford sells a pair of toolboxes that swing out to access them over the tailgate. Easy install. You can look into that.
4. I have the factory bedliner, and it is very nice. I have had Rhino and Line-X, and I see very little to no difference, although know that if you plan on removing the bed for any reason (why? dunno...), the factory bedliner sprays over the bed bolts. Otherwise, you should just let price decide. There are many in either camp, who will say one thing is better than the other, but I seriously don't see a difference between what I had and what I have now.
5. Roof clearance lights. Awesome look. There have been some with issues, but I think it's super rare to have a leak or other issue with them. Know that they are LED, so you shouldn't ever have to change a bulb or service the lights. They are a little bit of a hassle to clean around though, when washing your truck.
6. Upfitter switches. Get them. Get them. Get them. Even if you can't think of what you would use them for, You will, and you will regret not ordering them from the factory. Don't think anybody on here would disagree with that statement. Get them.
7. Now it's about 8 weeks from order to delivery. Some sooner, some later. Depends on where you live, and some other uncontrollable factors. Vast majority know that they will get their truck about 8 weeks from order. Truck will be built about 8 days from the day you get your window sticker. Window will come about 2 weeks after the VIN, and VIN may arrive quickly or about a week after your order. YMMV
You picked the most common colors to hide dirt. Dark trucks look awesome, but if you don't care to wash it, better to get silver, white gold, or white. Just low maintenance all the way. Either color you pick, the truck is awesome, so no worries there.
Plan to order F350XLT, SRW, 6.2L, 4.3 gears, 4x2, 8' bed, camper package, either crew cab or super cab with carpet delete. Don't really need a crew cab but like the larger fuel tank and think it may ride better with longer wheel base. Primary use will be to tow my gooseneck trailer used as a toy hauler (old tractors mostly) and secondary use will be a backup vehicle to my work truck (13 F150). Probably will not see more than 7k miles a year and plan to keep it for minimum of 20 years. Trailer is a triple axle rated 21k, would probably not ever be loaded to the maximum except for some very short trips (<10 miles), most of time would be hauling 7-12k lbs of equipment. Seldom tow on interstates, mostly state/county highways. My goal is to get something reliable, comfortable, keep cost to minimum.
We took delivery of our 2017 F350 a month ago; it's quite similar to what you're describing. Major differences are we have short bed and 3.73 gears; see my signature for more details.
Although Indiana is fairly flat, level, and at relatively low elevation, the 4.30 axle probably makes sense for your intended application. I think you've thought through your needs and a workable solution quite well, especially considering the 6.2's improved torque curve for 2017. Some comments on your specific questions:
Is there any significant difference in ride quality between 6.7 equipped models and 6.2 models. 6.7's are much more plentiful for test drives but have heavier engine.
Probably not. The diesel model is typically fitted with higher-rated front springs.
How much does the camper package option affect ride. I want the higher payload and sway bars but don't find many on lots with that option to test. May be a moot point since do want the payload ability.
The F350 SRW XLT includes 18" wheels and tires, which means that it comes with the five-leaf rear spring pack; there's no "upgrade" from that. Its camper package includes a rear sway-bar, stiffer front springs, and the slide-in camper certification. The ride is a bit stiff if the truck is very lightly loaded, but it rides very nicely with two adults and several dozen bags of mulch; ask me how I know... I also dropped the tire pressure a bit, as the spec is for full GVWR, and there's an ~4K lb. swing between the empty truck and when it's fully loaded.
Height of the truck is a big concern, if I was 8 ft tall would not be an issue but only 6 ft tall. Lifting 50lbs over the bed rails is not as easy now as was 30 years ago and bed rails are a good foot higher than they were 30 years ago... Only solutions I see are to get the tail gate step and extended running boards. Getting the crew cab and using the back seat area for tools / chains / etc storage is another option.
I'm 6'-7, and the truck can even be a stretch for me. Get the crewcab and the tail gate step, which is rated for >300 lbs.
Gotta run... More later!
More:
Bed liners, I hate the plastic slide in type, usually throw them away when by used truck with one already in it. Is there really any real benefit to spray in liners? Will still dent etc., use a sheet of plywood for my F150 mostly because stuff doesn't slide around as much.
The spray-in liner protects the paint, IMHO, but doesn't make the bed or walls any more dent resistant. Alternatives include a bed mat (i.e., Dee Zee) or after-market spray-in.
Roof clearance lights, I've alway liked the look. What are the drawbacks besides another 5 or so bulbs to keep working that you can't reach without a ladder. Are there any benefits?
My view is that the only benefit is appearance. They're an inexpensive option, and they're now LED, so there shouldn't be any real maintenance requirement.
Upfitter switches, worth while? Doubtful would ever add a permanently installed winch. Maybe a transfer tank at some point to increase travel distance between fill ups or to transfer gas to other equipment. What else could they be used for, maybe I'm overlooking something obvious.
Upfitter switches are handy for lights, compressors, pumps, winches, etc. Ford says this option cannot be retrofitted. The switches can also be used to turn things off, such as backup lights when hooking up to a trailer at night. Two of the switches can be wired for "always on" applications. More info.
What is typical lead time from order placement. 8wks? Don't want new truck to arrive when still trying to sell both of the others. Ideally would have both sold before took delivery and made the final payment for the new truck.
Ours took exactly eight weeks from that day we placed the order until the truck was delivered to our dealer.
Some other options to consider:
1) Extra-extra heavy duty alternator (240 A, Option Code 67E) for the 6.2; ~$85.
2) One of the various camera packages
3) XLT Premium Package (Option Code 17P; many upgrades and extra features) (requires extra-cost PowerScope mirrors and rear window upgrade)
4) XLT Premium Package Extended Running Board option (Option Code 1)
5) 40/console/40 front seat option ($300 on top of OC 17P)
6) LED bed work lights (OC 66L)
Feel free to contact me for more info about our truck, including picture requests.
HTH!
Jim / crewzer
Last edited by crewzer; Apr 27, 2017 at 08:38 AM.
Reason: more...
I ve been reading on this forum for quite some time. Have gotten valuable info. A long the lines of the XLT ordering thoughts my question is 'can a dual zone a/c and heat system' be ordering with any package below the Lariat? Thx guys
I ve been reading on this forum for quite some time. Have gotten valuable info. A long the lines of the XLT ordering thoughts my question is 'can a dual zone a/c and heat system' be ordering with any package below the Lariat? Thx guys
As Jim said above, you must get a Lariat or higher trim level to get dual zone temperature controls. However, you will need either the Lariat Value Package or the Lariat Ultimate Package as the base Lariat does Not have dual zone temperature controls.
The January 5 2017 Order Guide (pg. 3) and the 2017 Super Duty Specifications brochure (pg. 5) both indicate that dual-zone electronic automatic temperature control (DEATC) is standard on the Lariat, KR, and Plat.
Thanks, good info and feedback. Will probably go ahead and get the up fitter switches just for future possibilities. Also think will likely go with the crew cab over the super cab. I'm cheap so will pass on any bed liner, always thought the bed should be scratched up a bit, that is what it is for.
The January 5 2017 Order Guide (pg. 3) and the 2017 Super Duty Specifications brochure (pg. 5) both indicate that dual-zone electronic automatic temperature control (DEATC) is standard on the Lariat, KR, and Plat.
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
I stand corrected, you are 100% correct. The dual zone temp control is standard on the base Lariat and up. For some reason I had associated the dual zone controls with the heated and cooled seats. It's the heated/cooled seat option that is not available on the base Lariat.
We're getting closer. My revised understanding is that the base Lariat includes heated & cooled 10-way power seats. Among other features, the Value- and Ultimate Packages add memory to the driver's seat and the power pedal adjuster.
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
Last edited by crewzer; Apr 28, 2017 at 03:02 PM.
Reason: Correction
I also dropped the tire pressure a bit, as the spec is for full GVWR, and there's an ~4K lb. swing between the empty truck and when it's fully loaded.
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