So first time painting. Picked up a bed doors fenders. Reusing the cowl, cab and front valence. Completely forgot the fuel doors.

So far the cab has barely been touched. Started with the loose pieces. Full time job 8-6, so most things happen on the weekends. The local FTE chapter has been out several times to help with moving and sanding, plus other friends. The time invested with all these hands is making things move fairly quickly.

Really looking for feedback, atta boys, name calling or any type of feedback on this, as i won't learn or get it right if I don't at least know what I am doing wrong.

So far:

DA - 60\80 grit.
low spots - bare metal -bondo brand filler - resand.
holes (for ladder rack) - fiberglass - sand - bondo - sand

2k urethane primer sprayed. This is my first time trying paint. I'm sure I have bit off more than I can chew. Been block sanding the first 2k primer with 220-320- and 400 grit paper.




Core support cracked.



First Bed Sanding



FTE North Carolina Chapter (not all active members showed up, but help is here)



New Spray guns



Sanding Cowl.



Cowl and hood prepped



running out of places to put things.



Bed - pre primer



Bed primed



front panel



header panel primed (and welded and POR'd) POR since it sat around the longest.



Pass fender - used - needs more sanding feathering.



Drivers fender -new- one ding in the body line - the area that meets the a-pillar was bent 180 over.



hood - used- crappy paint before hand. however very very very straight. Mixture was off on the paint (3:1:1 instead of 4:1:1)

 

Bondo brand filler as sold in auto parts stores saying Bondo on the can? Me, Evercoat all the time.

Screw holes filled with fiberglass and then bondo? What about the backside that one doesn't see? Me, I use 10 penny nails and mig weld the heads into the hole and then cut off the shaft.

 

Thanks, I tried mig welding washers in place, but didn't think of using nails. The mig I have kept burning through the sheet metal. It's a 110 flux core setup, and I'm not very good.

Thank you for the tips though. I will certainly try the nail idea.

 

So is this Fish Eye? And how do I fix it in a SS metallic?




Thanks,

 

Looks like bad orange peel or very dry. Either sprayed on too dry or moved gun too fast either way sand and buff or sand and repaint. Is it base coat clear coat or single stage paint?

 

It's a single stage metallic paint. I may be moving the gun too fast. I dunno. It was actually raining out so the air in the shop I'm sure was very humid, and the a/c comes in from the furthest point from the door, which is where I had the hood laying at. I have some 800-1000 grit paper I can sand it down and respray it, may also move closer to the ac unit to have dryer air.

Thanks for the advice!

 

Fish eye is usually caused by oil, oil in air compressor or air line leading to spray gun, or oil in the shop air (that you breathe) because you have an oil heater of some kind, someone sprayed some lubricant in the shop, or your shop is near a fast food restaruant or highway. There are fish eye eliminator products you can get from a paint supplier if it is an ongoing concern or problem. Air compressor & supply lines should have water seperators and oil filters on the lines going to the spray gun and a filter on spray gun. Also drain the compressor or bleed off the water and oil that condense in the tank when the compressor shuts down for the day/night and before spraying paint. Been a long time since I painted 15+yrs, but these are all things we used to do as the painters on a regular basis, as the boss doesn't pay you to do it twice if you didn't do the preventative maintenance prior.

 

No, fish eye is more of an isolated spot. This looks very dry overall to me. What do you feel when you run a finger across? If smooth then orange peel most likely. If kind of rough then more likely dry. Both have opposite causes. One too close and one too far away. One too much product and one too little. One too fast and one too slow. Inlet pressure and atomization. Nozzle size. Catalyst used and air temperature at the time.

 

Tried again yesterday on the rest of the truck. Figured the hood will work for now.

So the first layer is laying down fine, it's just a light quick layer. The flash time is 15 minutes. Which means I can spray again after that, but what happens if I take 30 minutes to get around to the next layer, After all it's a large truck (cclb) and it takes a little maneuvering to get the roof done.

Putting the second coat on, it did the above orange peel effect. I stopped there, as it started raining outside. So maybe I waited too long for the second layer? I gave up about half way through the second layer as i didn't want to ruin all the panels. Now I'm thinking that wasn't the best idea.

 

each paint mfg has a time frame for min/max time for recoat and if you miss the window what to do (typically a light sand is required). Also the thinner should be specific to the temp, humidity, etc......if not, using those scope of conditions, make adjustments as your common sense tells you to............

 

Thanks Beechkid. That is what I was thinking. I think it flashed faster than expected and so is not correct when putting the second layer on. I'll wet sand with 800 and shoot another layer. Hoping it comes out all uniform.

If not well it has been a hell of a learning experience.

 

Sorry a little late to the show Josh.
In this heat and humidity you need a vary slow drying thinner/reducer.
Yes pick up slow drying product, wet sand with 800 and hit it again.


Even with slow drying thinner/reducer is why I have not got paint on the inside cab but it is holding me up now.
Also I am new to the HVLP guns and what tips/needles get used with what and the guns adjustments.
Only thing I have painted with the HVLP gun is the fire wall and "I" was not happy how it came out but not bad either, looks factory.


If you do more painting drop me a line and I will swing by to see what you have.
Dave ----

 

Dave, will definately be doing more painting. At this time, I don't think the truck will be ready for the fishing trip I was wanting it for at the end of July. Still too much to do to it. Plus it would have been rushing anyway, so interior wouldn't be finished.

I'm going to switch tracks and get the Jeep ready. All it needs is fluids\A\R&B - and it'll roll just not as much space.

I'm going to hit NAPA in Garner for some more reducer- I think the stuff they sent me with this last batch was 65 degree stuff. I'll shoot it again, but most likely it'll be early morning, before the heat\humidity of the day sets in.

 

Dave - depending on weather I will hopefully shoot this Saturday morning. Going to try to hit it early before the heat of the day, instead of after lunch.

 

Benz, how did you like your gun and where did you buy from. Im in the process of doing some painting for the first time, myself.

You are dry sanding? I always thought you had to use wet sanding.

Good Job

Gilbert