No, the controls that you put the red box around for emphasis are the stock heater-only controls. I think he is referring to the pic up in post #8 above, your second pic there where the glove box is open. Look just to the left of the glove box, that little panel with an air outlet(s) on it. Isn't it missing a control or a **** or something?

Dealer-installed A/C units that I have seen have a temp ****, and an On/Off switch, at a minimum. Some have a fan speed control.

 

This is like the dealer A/C in mine...Back in the day, A/C was in such ordering demand that assembly couldn't keep up, and some trucks ordered with it came through w/o...or a truck would be bought off the lot and have it added...Mine also has the center-dash bezel with control ***** and air outlets (left of g/b) and possibly also a shallower glove compartment to accommodate the equip., which is the only way I've seen it done (I can't imagine how ugly that deal would be that takes up the whole g/b and puts another g/b below it)...BUT, my bezel has a blue-oval Ford logo at the bottom, which leads me to believe this a kit supplied to dealers by the company...the condenser, though, is definitely not factory-standard, but rather a small 'universal' unit hung with ugly straps (i'm changing that out)...so maybe this is yet a 'third' dealer-air iteration...and yes, the bezel pictured is missing a control, either the blower speed or thermostat...

My heater box has previously been cut in two between the core and blower, either in this original air install or in replacing heater core...As to one hose seeming dry, does the system produce heat? if so, coolant is circulating...I'm just sorry to say it's probably a busted core...that 'extra' leak seen coming from the resistor matrix is probably coming from core leakage in the box...one thing we can all do with older vehicles maintenance-wise is to back-flush the heater core...i'll take the hoses off and put a power washer wand to the outlet, and sometimes you won't believe the crap that flushes out...

 

Yeah it is missing a control ****; didn't know that was temperature control or not; you turn the **** on the left and the fan starts blowing; I'll touch base with the PO and see if he can tell me what was on there.

I thought about trying to flush it and hook it back up but I think I'll just bite the bullet, remove it, and replace it. It's obviously not working right and that lever should also be moving so I might as well do it right.

 

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This panel controls the heater, it has nothing to do with the dealer A/C

The A/C is controlled by the switches on the panel between the glove box and instrument cluster.

 

Aha! Thanks for spelling it out for me, NumberDummy. I assumed it was all together like them fancy modern cars.

I'll pop the panel off and see if theres a component behind the vent to see if I can get away with just a ****.

 

Any advice on recharging the AC? should I just dump some cans of refrigerant in there or rebuild the compressor with new O rings n such first?

 

Today you're looking at an R-134a conversion...You don't want to just try to put in refrigerant without first addressing the system and evacuating air with vacuum pump...It's a process, but there's a lot you can do yourself, even if you don't have a vacuum pump/manifold set...

You'd want to expel as much of the old mineral refrigerant oil (not compatible with new refrigerant) as possible by flushing the coils (evaporator and condenser) and by removing and inverting the compressor...this can be a simple as squirting in lots of rubbing alcohol and blowing through with air...You'd need to replace that missing dash thermostat with one like shown in pic, but simply it being missing at all is a kind of red flag...The tail end of its tubing has to be inserted into the fins/coil of the evap...The dryer unit has to be replaced...The compressor can be retained without modification, unless known to be bad...hose-clamped fittings are ok if the hoses are a/c type and barbed fitting is used (common in retrofit-air)...Replace any found O-rings with the new green ones, using refrigerant oil, which you will also need to replenish the compressor and possibly dryer; I would recommend medium-weight PAG...The TX (thermostatic expansion valve) attached to the evap. should not need to be changed, and might be unreachable anyway...Finish off with conversion of charging fittings (parts store)...

Best recommend is to do the cleanout and any retrofitting you can, and have a shop check your work and do the oil/evacuation/charge...might also leave the new dryer sealed up in its box until charge time...it actually takes very little 134a; maybe half of what you'd put in with the old R-12...Too much will kill performance...At least that's been my own finding in doing these...The charge itself is the least of the process...

 

Wow that sounds like a chore; Is there an easy way to tell if it's already been converted to 134a? Anyone know anyone selling the old refrigerant?

I'm guessing the dryer and evaporator is in the black box underneath the glove box? I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull that out. =\

I checked and the temperature control IS missing; I pulled the heater core out and was cleaning it and found the old **** though!

I also cleaned out the vents which were loaded with dirt and leaves. Was this designed you you could get outside air in the cab without rolling down the windows? I think the PO used contact cement and sealed the driver side vent shut.

So I need a new dryer, thermostat, refrigerant oil, green O rings, charging fittings and then need to pull off the compressor and clean it with rubbing alcohol and replace any O ring with the green ones? Could I use a generic thermostat like the one I found on Amazon for $9?

I pressed the needle on the top of the compressor and it had a pathetic little hiss of air coming out so I'm sure whatever was in there is gone now.

So much for knocking heater and AC out today.

 

How far are you from Snyder TX?

D4AZ-19B519-A .. 1 lb. can of R-12 Freon / Obsolete

WILSON FORD in Snyder TX has 8 = 325-573-1907.

 

R-12 for days....

https://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/6066361876.html

https://fayar.craigslist.org/pts/6085941760.html

https://columbiamo.craigslist.org/for/6071653863.html

https://columbiamo.craigslist.org/pts/6056022587.html

 

280 miles lol; I was reading I can't buy R-12 unless I have a special license though.

Also did some reading about Freeze 12 or Red Tek 12a as an equal value to just drop in; I'd like to try to keep the cost down as much as possible. I read that converting to 134a might not be a great choice (lower cooling ability, needing better condenser, having to clean out compressor and buying miscellaneous parts like fittings).

I think I saw something on here where they replaced the dryer, orafice, pulled a vacuum, and then dropped refrigerant in.

Good find; I'll check my local craigslist.

Also attaching photo of generic thermostat from amazon; any issues you see with it?

 

My blue truck has Freeze 12 and came with a Carhartt jacket from the PO. lol I am sure there is some R-12 closer to you. Holler up your in state FTE members.

 

I'm finding maybe 20 cans priced $20-$30 per can apart from the guy that has 2 cases who says some bologna about signing some waiver and having an EPA license of some sort. Sounds like another craigslist scam!

How many cans you think it would take?

Nice! Mine came with tools and tire changing stuff. Some ratchet straps, wire snips, needle nose pliers, and miscellaneous hardware. What am I ever going to do with concrete anchors!? Wanna trade some concrete anchors for that jacket?

Wondering if it might be easier to just find an AC shop that can charge with R-12.

Hmmm

 

I'll keep the coat, it's my shop junk jacket now. But..mine also came with PO installed front blocks...SUPER FAIL. It now has 4" Rough Country lift springs. If you were closer to the border I am sure you could get it serviced fast and cheap.

There is a member on here that crosses the border for stuff like that all the time. I would do your research and listen to the experienced guys on the a/c stuff, it can save you $$ 99% of the time.