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My transmission cover was in pretty good shape but needs a little patch work to make it work for the column shift. I cut patches to match the two floor shift holes, using 22 gauge to match the thickness. In some places where the gap is wide I keep blowing out holes. Should I be using a brass block behind it?
Ok the first big thing I see wrong is you did not clean the areas to be welded.
Clean old paint down to bare metal and it will weld easier and less likely for blow thru.
It also looks like you may be using a MIG welder with out gas because of the splatter. Gas helps for nicer welds.
As fro the backer I thought it was copper? Could be why it has not worked too good for me?
Dave ----
Yes you can use a copper backer. Brass might work? Never tried it. Looks too hot. Experiment a little with your volts and wire feed speed on some scrap.
I have welded gaps and it just takes the right settings and practice. Cleaner metal does work better as Dave said.
Once you get enough tacks you can weld tack to tack. Take your time and let it cool. Hammer as needed. Don't overheat it when you grind the welds.
Thanks all for the tips, will try again tomorrow. The transmission cover sheet metal is pretty thin, I mic'd it at 0.03 so that's why I chose 22 gauge.
22 gauge is gonna blow thru.......like said, it's really thin. A backer might help, but it will still want to blow out around the puddle. What I would do is use 18 ga for the patch and strike your arc on that, letting the puddle flow into the thinner metal. Still have to go slow and let each tack fully cool.....also keep your gaps as tight as possible.
Are you using flux-core mig wire? If not, it doesn't look like you are getting enough shielding gas coverage. If you are using flux-core you should be aware that FC welds hotter than non FC wire... you need to reduce your heat and wire speed to compensate...
It's a cheap flux core HF special. I need to get a copper paddle and work on getting my gaps tighter, I think the sloppy cut is just making it harder I have some 18 gauge on the way.
much off all you've already been told. Clean all that area you are welding on both sides of the weld and both sides of the parts.
Did you mic the steel on the cover plate? I thought it was 16 ga. Maybe 18. 22 is very difficult to weld and not burn through. I'd turn the amperage down as low as you can go. Don't stay in one place too long.
a copper chill plate will help you but if the current and thickness is correct, you shouldn't need one.
If you decide to go with 16 or 18 ga material, I'd use a sheet of white poster board to make a template and try to tighten up the gaps as much as possible. Cut the patch slightly large and then work the edges with a bench grinder to get it to fit.
I'd personally use solid wire and set the Ar/Co2 gas at about 25 SCFH.
Does your welder have a timer ? Wire feed control ? Besides good cleaning & fitting This is most inportant, Getting the weld time & wire feed will help you control blowing holes, practice will not hurt. I use a spot weld nozzle for the work your doing. Very easy to use, you just rest the nozzle on the work & pull the trigger with the right weld time & wire feed.
1950 uses 16 gauge steel. Home Depot carries 1'x1' squares.
Good advice above on the cleaning and pattern making.
Also remember that you need to reverse the polarity of your welding cables if you are using flux core wire vs gas shielded solid wire. AXRacer, our welding expert here on FTE recommends using .023 ESAB Easy Grind solid wire. Mush easier finishing work.
If you have much more welding to do in your lifetime, put the HF welder on CL and buy a decent 220v machine with gas, the difference is night and day. Leave the HF unit to someone welding fence posts.
If you have much more welding to do in your lifetime, put the HF welder on CL and buy a decent 220v machine with gas, the difference is night and day. Leave the HF unit to someone welding fence posts.
Exactly what Ross said. MIG was probably the best money I've spent on tools.
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