Ok iFart I decided not to wait until tomorrow.
I went out and disassembled mine off my truck and took these for you.












and now reinstalled

 

Those pictures are a huge help! Thanks!

PapaBearYuma; I'm not sure my choke is working properly; I connected the blade to a hot wire that also matched in color (brown) and it has continuity through it's housing and ground. I tried hitting the accelerator all the way down and it didn't alter the choke at all.

I snapped these pics; After fiddling with the accelerator and choke lever I think I see how its supposed to work; am I missing a spring or something?

 

The wire would heat the bimetal element up allowing the choke to open. You need to loosen the three screws to have it close the choke butterfly when cold. It should just barely be closed. I always leave about a 1/16 or so open to start with. Each engine is a bit different

 

Thanks redcreek, I was just about to recommend the same thing hahaha
Sounds to me like the bimetal strap inside might be either out of adjustment, broken or froze up

Looking at your pictures IT REALLY APPEARS TO BE OUT OF ADJUSTMENT

iFart
I also don't see a Vacuum pull off module..
It mounts behind the carburetor

 

Alright I'll have a go when it's cold in the morning.

I'm currently in a debate whether to buy the $32 reverse switch (IMO switches should be $10-15!) and build a bracket or just live with my toggle switch(which was free!) and teach myself to not forget to turn it off. I'm also in a debate about whether to tackle the heater core or go without it for a bit Ay yai yai

So when cold; loosen the 3 screws for the choke and then just leave loose or retighten when the butterfly plate is mostly closed?

Anyone in the Dallas area want to help me adjust my carb? I'll pay you in beer!

You're right, it doesn't seem to have one of those pulloffs, not directly on the carb itself at least. At first I thought the item circled was it but I guess that's something else (what is that thing?). Now I'm wondering if I have an arm to connect a pulloff and the choke. =\

I also attached a picture where the butterfly carb flap wants to go when I press the choke lever down.

I kinda want to go meet the mechanic who'd been working on this thing for the last few decades and ask him to show and explain a few things around the engine bay. He's gotta be an ingenious fellow for sure.

 

That little thing in your circle is your EGR valve
stands for
EXHAUST
GAS
RECIRCULATION VALVE

and look for a white line on top of the black plastic housing for the bimetal spring and line it up with the marks cast into the housing.
I would start at the second mark the the rear of center

 

After searching oreilys and auto zone I'm not finding a vacuum pull off or choke pull off; can anyone provide a part or number?

 

Re Back up lamp switch

Ford - Ford Pickup Truck Back Up Light Switch - F100 & F250 With 3 Speed Manual Transmission - Macs Auto Parts

Back Up Light Switch | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts

and the bracket...

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/prod...-75-bronco-new

 

I don't have a prt # BUTTTTTTT....

Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor Choke Pull-Off Ford & Ford Truck

or go to the parts for sale forum and ask around HEdouble toothpick I bet someone here just might give you one or atleast REALLLLLL cheap

(edit)..hey it just dawned on me, Does your carb even have the two screw holes in the back????
If not then don't worry about getting one....

 

Nice! Good to see the parts are out there. After adding shipping cost though it'd be cheaper to just buy a switch and build a bracket or go with what I found on Amazon. I've got spare metal and tools. If only I could find a switch that is cheap and normally an open circuit. I saw some for Volkswagen but they might be too short on their plungers.

I also looked on Amazon and found a generic one that looks like what you showed earlier and includes a bracket.

Maybe I'll make make a baseball type rule where if I forget to turn off my reverse toggle switch 3 more times I'm out and will then get something on the column.

Took the dogs out and checked; not screw holes in the back of the carb; guess that means my 2100 doesn't need it!

 

iFart,

hey today I went and retrieved my extra bracket, AND discovered it still has the OEM switch on it





tested it and it still works

then I stopped by and had a chat with my buds at my O'reilly's and had them look it up and they came up with this...BWD S663 for $31.99 (here anyways)
then a quick look into fleabay and found this....

Back Up Lamp Switch BWD S663 | eBay
still would need to tack on uncle Sam and the postman but still $5.00

 

That link takes me to the $32 switch at oreilys to the same switch for $50. =\

Are you looking to part with your extra bracket?

I'm thinking about tackling the heater core so I can also get the AC system running; should I open the compressor and replace O rings and such or just dumps some cans of refrigerant in there and see if it holds?

 

Given the cost of R-12, I'd want to be fairly confident that the system is sealed before charging. Easy enough to check that the system is holding pressure.

 

Just looked at the pricing of R-12; wow! I thought the older refrigerant wasn't available.

Would you check by pulling a vacuum on the system and see if it holds steady or fluctuates?

I mentioned the same question in my heater core thread and someone was talking about conversion to 134a; is that advisable?

 

R-134 has smaller molecules than R-12, which can cause it to leak in systems with old seals and without barrier hoses. R-134 also operates at higher pressure, making it more likely to leak.

That being said, I recently had both the 78 and 79 serviced with R134 and they're both nice and cold now.