Re-assembing cab to frame (1966)
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From: West Tennessee
Re-assembing cab to frame (1966)
I have assembled the front cap and disassembled it just to see how it would come together. I learned a couple of things but it went OK.
Now, I am ready to set the cab back on the frame and I am looking for some direction/advice from those of you that have already experienced this job. I am a one man show with a John Deere tractor with a front end loader and a nylon sling strap to move the cab back to the frame (that's no problem). I can do this job OK, but I need to know this.....how do know when the cab is in the proper place?
I would think that I would put all the bushing and bolts in and leave them loose (any pics of cab bushing would help). But here is the next question and that is how do you move that heavy cab "just little" for final adjustment ( remember it's just me no helpers).
Thanks in advance for your pictures and comments.
rsh1966
Now, I am ready to set the cab back on the frame and I am looking for some direction/advice from those of you that have already experienced this job. I am a one man show with a John Deere tractor with a front end loader and a nylon sling strap to move the cab back to the frame (that's no problem). I can do this job OK, but I need to know this.....how do know when the cab is in the proper place?
I would think that I would put all the bushing and bolts in and leave them loose (any pics of cab bushing would help). But here is the next question and that is how do you move that heavy cab "just little" for final adjustment ( remember it's just me no helpers).
Thanks in advance for your pictures and comments.
rsh1966
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Southern AB
I would start by lining up the rear cab mount holes, there should be 2 mounts outside the frame railing that your bolts will go thru.
To move around for final adjust you can use a floor jack under the rocker and just do one side at a time. Just try to jack near the front as there's more material there and stronger. Or you cab slightly lift it by hand and give it a little push, I've did mine with no issue.
D
To move around for final adjust you can use a floor jack under the rocker and just do one side at a time. Just try to jack near the front as there's more material there and stronger. Or you cab slightly lift it by hand and give it a little push, I've did mine with no issue.
D
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Rsh:
Once you get the cab on the cusions, its not that difficult to wiggle it around and center it...one man job. As long as you can get the mounts on the pads. I would be careful where you sling it and not under the roof. I would go under the floor, since there's space between the floor and frame, it will allow you to remove your straps.
Once you get the cab on the cusions, its not that difficult to wiggle it around and center it...one man job. As long as you can get the mounts on the pads. I would be careful where you sling it and not under the roof. I would go under the floor, since there's space between the floor and frame, it will allow you to remove your straps.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Billings Montana
You have got to have a friend that you could get to help you for 30 minutes. Assuming your cab is bare , my son and I lifted the cab off for paint and back on after paint by ourselves. Much more accurate than a tractor, We set the cab down lined up the wholes stuck the bolts in, and then I lifted one side while my son placed the mounts on the frame I then set the cab down and put the bolts in to prevent cab from sliding then went to the other side and did the same. Took about 30 minutes.
Fleet Owner
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Rsh, I think it is gonna be much simpler than you are thinking. These parts a large but not that heavy. 2 people can lift a bed, a cab, and moving it a little is not that hard. Grab a 2x4 and use it like a fulcrum if you need a half or quarter inch. I always did the roof strap with no issues, as noted it's not that heavy.
John
John
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From: West Tennessee
Thanks for the comments. Using the floor jack and a 2x4 are things that I can do. I thought about trying to cobble together bushings, but broke down and order a cab bushing set from Mac's. The bushings are made of harder material than I would have thought. I asked them to send me a diagram (which they did) but it is small and a little hard to read. If anyone has pics of a Mac's bushing in place at the front cab mount or the back mounts I would appreciate seeing them.
Thanks again for all the useful recommendations.
rsh1966
Thanks again for all the useful recommendations.
rsh1966
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Rsh:
Should be pretty straightforward.
Set the big rubber donut on the frame with the little raised ring in the hole.
Set the cab on those
Place the small donut under the frame, the push the metal tube in from underneath. Big washer on top, drop the bolt in the hole.
Big washer on the bottom and nut.
If your kit comes with smaller washers, the go on under the bolt head and/or directly under the nut. The big washers and metal tube limit the compression of the rubber pads when you tighten everything up. You might want to make sure you don't need to shim the cab to align the bed and fenders before you tighten it all down.
Should be pretty straightforward.
Set the big rubber donut on the frame with the little raised ring in the hole.
Set the cab on those
Place the small donut under the frame, the push the metal tube in from underneath. Big washer on top, drop the bolt in the hole.
Big washer on the bottom and nut.
If your kit comes with smaller washers, the go on under the bolt head and/or directly under the nut. The big washers and metal tube limit the compression of the rubber pads when you tighten everything up. You might want to make sure you don't need to shim the cab to align the bed and fenders before you tighten it all down.
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From: West Tennessee
resonateur
Good step by step instructions. I have printed your comments off and will take it to the shop. My kit only has the bushing so I plan to get the washers and grade 8 bolts at Fastenal.
Thanks for your instructions.
rsh
Good step by step instructions. I have printed your comments off and will take it to the shop. My kit only has the bushing so I plan to get the washers and grade 8 bolts at Fastenal.
Thanks for your instructions.
rsh
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Rsh:
No problem, glad I could help. My kit came from Carpenter and the fasteners are:
Bolts 7/16 fine thread x 4" grade 5. (4)
Nuts 7/16 fine thread stovers (these are crimp style lock nuts) (4)
Large fender washers 2-1/2" x 7/16 (8)
Small washers 1-1/4" x 7/16 stud washers (these are 3/16" thick) (8)
I added the stud washers on the "topside"' didn't come with the kit.
I used fine thread non-locking nuts initially until everything was aligned, then installed the locknuts.
No problem, glad I could help. My kit came from Carpenter and the fasteners are:
Bolts 7/16 fine thread x 4" grade 5. (4)
Nuts 7/16 fine thread stovers (these are crimp style lock nuts) (4)
Large fender washers 2-1/2" x 7/16 (8)
Small washers 1-1/4" x 7/16 stud washers (these are 3/16" thick) (8)
I added the stud washers on the "topside"' didn't come with the kit.
I used fine thread non-locking nuts initially until everything was aligned, then installed the locknuts.
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From: West Tennessee
I have another question. I have all the pieces parts for the cab mounts. The only thing that I am missing is the washer sleeve. Which to me looks like a washer with a spacer attached to it.
Here is my question. Why do I need that spacer/sleeve?
rsh1966
Here is my question. Why do I need that spacer/sleeve?
rsh1966
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The original parts were different than the repro. Originally the large washer was attached to a "tube". I guess the cost of reproducing them with the separate "tube" is much cheaper because its all off-the-shelf hardware. The tube is a spacer that serves as a stop for the attaching bolts to avoid over compressing the rubber bushings. I would think it preferable to have.
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