My airbags trouble light is flashing a code of 27 can anyone tell me what this code means?

 

My Ranger has the same problem and it apparently is the passenger airbag disable light, the illuminated on/off light near where you put the key in to turn on/off the passenger airbag. If your light is out that may be the problem assuming both use the same codes for the same problems. Use caution when working on the AB system, your problem may differ..

Why they have a trouble code for a burned out bulb I dont know, I mean jeez I can see myself that its out. What would actually be useful is a trouble code like this when a tail light or brake light is out...

 

Here is a possible fix I posted some time ago. Will reprint for posterity sake.



Here is a possible fix for a flashing airbag code 27. The problem was on a 2000 Ranger (out of warranty of course) , but should apply to Explorer and other Ford trucks as well.
Problem: After ignition switch turned on, airbag lamp on dash flashed code 27 several times, then remained lit.
Explanation of code: Fault in PAD (passenger airbag disconnect) warning lamp circuit.
Most probable cause: Burned out light bulb in PAD unit

Pinpoint tests were found in Ranger forum, a non-specific fix was posted in the F150 forum. Poster in F150 stated that bulb was not available from Ford, but you could buy the whole unit for $70. Not sure about you all but a $70 light bulb sounded rather steep to me.

Items required: Source is Radio Shack
1. RS part # 276-351 5MM Yellow LED 2.1 Volt 20 MA (2 in package)$2.49
2. RS part # 271-1325 2.2K ohm resistor (5 pack) $.99

Procedure:
1. Remove the PAD switch housing cover plate by prying it downward and popping it off.
2. Remove 3 sheet metal screws holding PAD housing to dash, unit should drop down.
3. Remove electrical connector from PAD unit by pressing release tang on top side and pull connector out.
Remove 2 screws holding PAD unit to housing, and remove
4. Using a small screwdriver, pry the top of the PAD unit cover off. Start at the backside next to where the wire connector inserts. Be careful not to break plastic retainers.
5. Remove the circuit board from the PAD key housing (Just lift it up)
6.Using a voltmeter set on 10X Ohms scale, measure across the lamp leads. If no deflection of meter is seen, lamp is open (burned out.
If meter moves, then a fault in the wiring is indicated.
7. Using a small pencil soldering iron, remove the lamp from the circuit board.
8. Holding the circuit board so as to orient the components up and wiring connector away from your body, solder in one of the LED's.
The LED should have 1 lead longer than the other, place the longer lead to your left and solder it in place.
9. Flip the circuit board over to expose the wiring path side.
10. Using an exacto knife or other cutting instrument, cut a hole in(open up) the wiring path between the outermost LED wire and wiring connector.
11. Solder one of the resistors across the just opened up wiring path.

If you did all this right, you can plug the board into harness and test by turning the key on. The LED should light momentarily during the airbag test sequence, then extinguish. Codes should not flash on the dash lamp. If all this is OK, then reassemble all parts, and you just saved yourself 70 bucks.

If the LED does not light, double check that you got the polarity of the LED correct.

Thanks to all on the Ranger forum and F150 forum for the help.

Shame on Ford for the sloppy engineering (or intentional gouging) as the case may be.

Dialtone

 

This is a great fix! Thanks. But, as a novice electrician, I am curious about the resistor and it's placement. If we are just replacing the light bulb in the circuit, an LED & current limiting resistor are perfect. But, according to my calculations the resistor used here is way too big and will effect the performance of the LED. And don't we typically put the resistor on the anode side of the circuit? Are you doing more with this resistor than just limiting the current for the LED?

 

Digging back in my memory to when I originally posted this, seems I started out with a smaller value resistor. It worked, but I noticed the LED glowed dimmly when it wasn't supposed to, so I upped the value to cancel that effect. Even with this value, some glow is perceptable in a darkened cab. Go much higher, and the circuit will see it just like a burned out bulb. As to where the resistor is placed, it is just a convenient spot to insert it. I am no electronics expert for sure, but placement in this instance should not matter.

 

Thanks Dialtone. I knew there must be reasons and my tiny bit of knowledge on the subject just was getting in the way! After thinking about it, I could not come up with a reason for having the resister after the LED, but I have never seen a diagram (not that I've seen a lot) where the resister wasn't on the positive side of the circuit!

Thanks for taking the time to answer me and again for saving us all a ton of money!