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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 10:58 AM
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Cooling a 400

I'm having problems cooling my newly rebuilt 400. It's got TMeyer pistons, Weiand intake with 670 holley carb, & HEI distributor. I have a brand new aluminium radiator with dual 12" fans:
CC433
and a brand new milodon high-volume water pump:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16235/overview/

I'm running a 180 degree thermostat; motor will run for about 5 minutes at around 180, then climbs up to 200 within a few more minutes, which forces me to shut it off. Cooling system should be more that adequate; what do I need to start checking to track down this problem?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 11:47 AM
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Too much or too little timing can affect it. 200 isn't too bad but you'll be close to vapor lock problems.
Make sure you have good circulation, bottom hose not collapsing, both fans on when needed.
Origininal type thermo with the foot on it and not in backwards.
There is actually a larger aluminum radiator that's taller. My two row is I think about 25x25. A smaller one I had didn't do the trick.

Belt not slipping
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 02:17 PM
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Bottom hose has coiled metal in it, so it can't collapse. My lower hose is one of those bendable universal ones, would that matter? Stupid question - the water pump pulls water from the bottom of the radiator, through the lower hose, circulates it through the motor, then returns it through water neck & upper hose, right? I had actually thought of the timing causing it to run hot. It's currently set to 12* static.(vacuum advance isn't hooked up yet) Which way should I try to adjust to get it running cooler?(advance or retard? move dist. clockwise or counterclockwise?) Sorry, I'm ignorant of timing adjustments - used to driving FI & diesels.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2017 | 09:56 AM
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You're correct on the water flow. 12 should be in the ball park for initial, you can add 10/20 full manifold vaccuum. That would increase your idle advance and might cure your problem.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 12:21 PM
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Update - I know it's been a while, but I finally got around to tinkering with this thing a little more. I Hooked up the vacuum advance & advanced the distributor until I got some pinging, then dialed it back a hair. Engine is still heating up. It gets to 220 & then I shut it off. it pisses coolant out of the overflow when it heats up - could my radiator cap be the wrong pressure for this motor?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 04:15 PM
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More cooling issues I want the answers to. Subscribed!

Trying my damnedest to not run into these issues on initial start-up of my new motor!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 05:27 PM
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Are the head gaskets on correctly? That can definitely cause what your experiencing. Check for the gasket tab sticking out on the front outside corner of each head. If the tab is on the back, they gaskets are on wrong.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 05:45 PM
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Here is a thread on FSB on cooling. It should give you some ideas,
most effective cooling set-up - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Looks like everything still points to timing, but an interesting idea about a larger water pump pulley to drive the pump faster. Could my Milodon pump not be moving enough water?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2017 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Byrd.Dog
Looks like everything still points to timing, but an interesting idea about a larger water pump pulley to drive the pump faster. Could my Milodon pump not be moving enough water?
Larger? Don't you mean smaller?

The velocity of the impeller increases if you decrease the distance the pulley has to travel for a full rotation. A larger pulley would make the pump impeller travel slower.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2017 | 10:33 AM
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200 is just fine. Mine will run around 200-204 all day long. That's with stock 192* thermostat and efi though with an accurate gauge. Going up to 220* is not good though. What thermostat are you running (brand)?

cleveland engines are picky about thermostats. There should be a little hat or cone on the bottom that comes down when the thermostat opens
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hivoltj
200 is just fine. Mine will run around 200-204 all day long. That's with stock 192* thermostat and efi though with an accurate gauge. Going up to 220* is not good though. What thermostat are you running (brand)?

cleveland engines are picky about thermostats. There should be a little hat or cone on the bottom that comes down when the thermostat opens
Think it's a NAPA brand. It does have the correct "foot" on the bottom of it.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 09:22 AM
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I'm wondering about your thermostat. The NAPA one wont have the foot on it. They could have given you the wrong one. It's not possible it's in upside down is it?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 02:05 PM
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Update - Just installed one of Tim's "Cleveland Correct" thermostats & it appears to have fixed the problem! Drove ~20 miles yesterday & temp stayed 180-195 the whole time. I have never heard of anyone else having such problems with the standard parts store thermostats before???
 
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Old Feb 6, 2018 | 09:13 PM
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yes if the 335 engine doesn't have the proper stat it will run hot. its been addressed here many times.
 
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