When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am no expert but I do ask alot of questions. I spoke with a local rust protection / detailing shop. They pointed out that the vehicle is still mostly steel. That even aluminum rusts, just not the same way that steel does... it turns into like a powder. I "think" that normal road conditions do not deteriorate the aluminum as quickly as it does steel. Separately when I read up on the undercoating products, it is something you maintain... when the undercoating gets chipped or abraised, those exposed spots need to be re-protected by applying more of the coating. Supposedly the vehicle manufacturers publish what not to spray, since the undercoating would insulate and overheat some components that need to be exposed for cooling... and is a reason why not to apply the initial undercoating yourself unless you have that information of what not to spray. You could probably buy the cans of an equivalent product and keep up the maintenance yourself. Most detailing / rust protection shops will likely have a annual maintenance fee or package. There are different formulas for the various undercoating products, and it seems the reason for this (at least in part) is that the undercoating is doing double duty as a sound barrier.
The difference between steel rust and aluminum rust (better term is oxidation) is that when Iron oxidizes, it actually repels the oxidized layer from the surface exposing new iron to oxidize. This continues until the iron is rusted through or is gone entirely. Aluminum oxide actually binds to the surface of the un-oxidized aluminum effectively creating a barrier against new oxidization. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, just like iron (or steel) but it doesn't progressively rust through automatically like iron. You have to expose new aluminum via cleaning or polishing to get aluminum to re-oxidize.
I had my 2017 SD undercoated at the dealership when I bought it. What surprised me was how messy it was. They got undercoat on my chrome exhaust tips and some on my chrome running boards. My Rancho shocks where black and I even had some specks of over spray on the truck itself.
I was able to remove it in those areas without issue but I feel they did a sloppy job.
I had my 2017 SD undercoated at the dealership when I bought it. What surprised me was how messy it was. They got undercoat on my chrome exhaust tips and some on my chrome running boards. My Rancho shocks where black and I even had some specks of over spray on the truck itself.
I was able to remove it in those areas without issue but I feel they did a sloppy job.
I had mine done at a local shop that specializes in undercoatings and trim care. The guys that work in there know what they are doing, and I suspect it is not because they are careful, but that the company has it regimented / procedural. A vehicle dealership probably is not performing undercoatings quite as frequently leaving a lot of the decision making what prep work to do and how to spray to the worker doing the spraying. This is my impression after looking into. My understanding was that even with overspray it often can be peeled off, albeit with some care. There are some products that are oily that have to be wiped off. The flip side, was that I found spots they did not coat, probably because of the potential for overspray. These are small very minor spots that would have taken the technician extra maneuvering to apply. Not quite disappointing, but definitely not thorough. I am thinking of buying a can of similar coating and touching it up myself when I go to do an oil change.
I have used Fluid Film on all my Super Duty trucks. I'm not sure if its the same basic thing as Krown.
I bought the spray gun and bottle and wands - hook it to an air compressor and do it myself.
The upsides of Fluid Film is that is doesn't smell as bad as traditional oil, nor does it drip, nor is it black. It is a clear color. It is not environmentally harmful. It remains somewhat fluid, meaning that it naturally moves into cavities and low points where rust naturally starts.
The downside is basically that the "high traffic" areas of the underside lose their coating within 1 year of driving. Bottoms of axles and diffs, bottoms of leaf springs, front radius arms, etc...all "wash off" over time.
So my solution is to re-apply just before the onset of winter every year.
I'm only doing the frame of my 2017 since the body is aluminum. Yes, aluminum can corrode - but salt doesn't seem to affect it much. I've had aluminum-skinned Land Rovers and Range Rovers, as well as an all-aluminum Audi A8 that spent their entire lives in New England...no rust. So I just do the steel parts underneath the truck.
I bought the whole Fluid Film factory kit for about $150; the 1-gallon "paint" jugs containing the fluid film are sold for about $35 a gallon.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.