For the last time all things worked out well with the warranty kicking in as far as the deposits go pocket what I was trying to explain it's not physical deposits It's The wear-and-tear Sign of the wrong oil in the engine not physical deposits left behind they could tell the oil was not CJ they do it all the time on commercial trucks my brother explain to me and just so you understand there are tracers in all oil that they can easily detect it go ask an oil rep. I was wrong about the lawsuit and I removed it but ,as usual you're rude and nasty comments got you in trouble there's nothing unusual about you or anything that comes from your comments LOL please feel free to lock the thread nothing unusual there either it's a constant personal attack if I can get one thing not perfect why I'm trying to explain a major issue didn't even want to get into why i was starting the conversation I didn't know who to blame Ford Motor Company or Shell Oil have a nice day I was waiting to get all the facts from the dealer as I was working a hundred and ninety miles away from where the truck was being examined for the failure good day

 

As far as what oil I'll be using Valvoline premium 5w40 it's approved and on the list even the new CK Valvoline. Shell Oil was fine for years until they change the formula and it was more than a few months before they were aware that it wasn't going to meet the requirement of Ford I do a lot of oil changes per month twice a month under heavy work conditions. It was not a hard stretch of the imagination to believe the oil cause the spin out of the crank bearings take care

 

Good grief, you guys are still carrying on with the oil

 

There's nothing to carry on about a $18,000 engine that could have easily been thrown in my lap thanks to shell oil in my opinion. once again a lot of people use their trucks for work not weekend boat haulers I want people to be aware of this in case their dealer doesn't stand behind them and tells them they use the wrong oil do the signs of wear on the engine not deposits that's all just glad I have an in with my dealer and he didn't want to start a war because there's no reason this should have happened the engine was too well taken care of and very young and less than 50,000 miles ridiculous take care

 

Interesting ..... I didn't know using the "new" T6 would cause engine damage. Thought it was just not "approved" by the almighty "FORD".

 

It's not approved by Ford, because Ford engineers found that over a long period of time with continued use of certain CK-4 rated oils there was some additional internal wear that was deemed unacceptable.

Running CK-4 oil for a few oil change intervals isn't going to cause engine damage. In addition, not all CK-4 oils will contribute to additional wear, as only some (not all) have lower phosphorus levels - which is what Ford determined to be the primary cause of the reduced wear protection in their engines. Ford simply decided to play it safe in the short term by not approving any CK oils for now until further testing results are compiled, and oil manufacturers have a chance to work with Ford regarding their standards.

Unfortunately there is some confusing information in this thread. Post #46 has a video from Ford that clearly explains it. Notice the phrasing that Ford uses starting at 1:40:

- "use of some CK-4 motor oils could potentially lead to high mileage engine wear"

For those who have run Rotella that was mislabeled..... don't worry. It takes a much longer time than a few OCI's of CK oil to actually cause any lasting damage. High mileage is simply what it means, it lakes a lot of miles before accelerated engine wear begins to show up.

 

Thank you Curtis, now I know

 

Interesting, I hadn't heard that the main bearings didn't have tabs on them. I've been keeping an eye on these engines as I have many customers that use them, and I am trying to keep them and myself as well informed as I can.

The accelerated wear Ford refers to is in the sleeves. Apparently the lower phosphorus numbers didn't play well with the metals used to make the sleeves. I never got an answer as to exactly how much wear was observed though.

I'm gonna dig deeper into this spun-bearing issue though. If the new oil did in fact cause the issue, I'm quite curious as to what caused the film to collapse between the crank and the bearings. I've seen high revving, no oil, and loading a cold engine (be it starting and immediately running it or even idling high on a cold engine) cause the bearings to spin - never a oil spec change though.

Glad they're covering it though, and I'm curious as to what exactly the report says. Please keep us updated!

 

There are a few threads here and elsewhere about the main bearings that have come and gone over the years. To summarize:

- yes the bearings are tangless
- like any other motor failures can happen, but bearing failures on the 6.7L are rare and there is no widespread problem

All bearings are held in place primarily by crush. Tangs don't do much of anything to prevent spun bearings, as they are only used to locate the bearing during assembly.

So the idea that it's a bad design to go tangless is more rumor mill and wives-tales than fact. Many modern engines have switched to tangless bearings, and I would bet that trend will continue.

 

Get in trouble for what? My comments weren't rude and nasty, I called out how your story kept changing and how you refused to answer questions. That is precisely what happened.

And you specifically stated deposits MULTIPLE times. It wasn't a one-time accidental mis-speak.

What you accomplished was confusing some members here and trying to get people worried by starting up gossip regarding oil, engine failure, and bearing design. So now we have to go back and separate fact from fiction to keep people from worrying over nothing. These kind of threads pop up from time to time, causing a brief moment of panic for some truck owners until the facts are straightened out.

Next time, try and be more considerate of other members here. It's ok to ask questions or to talk about a problem, but it's not ok to attempt to cause panic with misinformation.

 

 

Glad to know this isn't a widespread issue. I find it interesting that they are tangless as I would think they'd want them there to help ease assembly. Personally I like having them, for the simple fact it aids assembly and I suppose since every engine I've ever worked on has had them as well, I have a bit of a preference. I rarely cut corners, but using the tangs to line the bearings up quicker is one thing I like to save some time with.

I lose that time when I plastigage though. Plastigage is my friend when rebuilding engines. When we're talking .001-.002" of clearance, I like to ensure everything is well within spec. I wonder if the OP's bearings or crank were a tad out of spec, causing the oil to improperly create a good film for the crank to ride on. This would cause it, after so many miles, to wear the bearings to the point where an oil film couldn't be created at all.

 

In 16 years of lurking on FTE, and 6 years as a member, I've never seen a blank post before. No wonder the username is "BlackOut". Normally, a post has to have at least 10 characters.

Sorry for the OT tangent. Carry on with oil, metallurgy, mislabeling, mileage to actually see some sort of failure modality, and engine warranties. Hopefully with civility.

And hopefully with some modicum of understanding that not every member can take the time to fully articulate the length and breadth of their thoughts in the Kings English. It is to be expected that guys who drive 3/4 ton and up trucks for a living... more often than not have more experience working with their hands than working with words. So a little leeway would be more neighborly in understanding their point, without holding them to the fire on the specific semantics of their expression.

I hope I always remember to have this understanding as well.

 

How exactly do you explain MULTIPLE occurrences?

In the same thread.

Even more, not just this one thread, he has done this exact same hysteria SEVERAL times before.

So a repeat offender of hysteria with BLATANT disregard for facts. Please explain.

 

Are you assuming these motors are all hand built?

If they aren't hand built, then what is the point of tangs/tabs? Those are for human reference.