1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

65 F100 C6 swap issue

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Old 04-06-2017, 08:24 PM
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65 F100 C6 swap issue

A few years ago I swapped my father in laws truck from a 3spd to a 4spd and now to a C6. The problem I didn't foresee is getting the trans up over the front crossmember without hitting the tunnel area. I obviously have the rear one out already. No matter what I do it will not clear. I'm guessing if I woulda pulled the motor and sent it in that way it would work. Does everyone cut this out or do we have a special truck here?
 
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:14 PM
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I think I found my answer searching old posts...it has to come out for a FE.
 
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:23 PM
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That's correct. If you have the older Cruise-o-matic, the original automatic they put in some of these trucks with the separate bellhousing, you could pull the transmission without pulling the engine.

The C6 has the integral bellhousing, of course.

Chad

.
 
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Old 04-07-2017, 12:02 AM
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Depending on where you are at with your truck you could always lift a cab up a bit because you don't really need that much more room.
 
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:13 AM
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PA74F250, I had the same issue with my 66 after adding a C6 that was stuffed in with the new rebuilt engine and need to come out. Your trucks rear cross member is riveted in and the one piece case of the C6 will not come through the opening that a separated tranny will. You have two options, you can pull the engine/tranny out together or cut the rivets on the cross member to remove it and drop the C6. Replace the rivets with good grade bolts and you are good to go. When Ford started adding the C6, bolts were used. Never had an issue with it afterwards.


John
 
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:23 AM
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had the same issue with my c6. ended up just drilling out the rivets and bolting it back in. sucks since it was maybe .25"-.5" from clearing it without pulling it.
 
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Old 04-07-2017, 10:07 AM
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Well the worst part about this whole deal is the truck is completely restored now. It woulda been nice to do this when I had the cab up to do mounts and floors. It doesn't look real easy to get that top bolt loose and out to get enough room to slide the cross member.

Would it be wrong to cut the cross member and mig weld it back in? I don't really want to get into removing a hood pulling a motor or anything like that since it's painted.

I don't really have any pics of it other than this magnet lol.

 
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Old 04-07-2017, 11:45 AM
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that's a nice looking truck!
 
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:31 PM
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Thanks. He's gotten a few first place trophies already where we wouldn't have guessed it would place at all.
 
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:59 AM
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You can always pull the engine 1st. Comes right out then.


John
 
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Old 04-08-2017, 02:02 PM
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I cut the rivets, the best way.
 
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Old 04-08-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
You can always pull the engine 1st. Comes right out then.


John
I think I pulled that thing 3 times already till I built him a new 390. It's staying in there now!



At least I hope
 
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Old 04-08-2017, 08:35 PM
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I'd cut the rivets but I have my doubts the bolt is going to clear without hitting the floor on the top. I've even had thoughts of cutting the cross member and welding tabs on each side making it a bolt it crossmember that way.

I haven't had time to operate on it yet this weekend and probably won't for a few days.
 
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:03 AM
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Bro, We have told you what works, you either pull it from the front with the engine or remove the cross member and pull it with the engine in place.

What else can we do if you don't think we know what we are talking about? Just asking.


John
 
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:57 AM
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It's not that I don't understand what works or doubt you.

I'm not pulling the engine anymore unless it has a problem.

The crossmember is coming out one way or another when I have time this week.

Thanks for your help. Even though I had this truck completely apart I'm still not completely familiar with all the early truck differences.
 


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