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good evening y'all. I was making final adjustment to my valves tonight and noticed this little guy on #8 exhaust is bent. Are theses pressed or threaded rocker studs? Farthermore someone told me that since these studs have a shoulder on them you didn't have to "adjust" them so must as just torque them to 18-21 lbs. that's BS isn't it? Cause I've always been told these have to be adjusted by feel
Are you going to thread the head casting now? They make an oversize press-in stud too.
Is the cam and valve train stock? What bent the stud?
My plan was to thread the head and put in a threaded stud, rather then press in. Not sure why it bent, it may have been me just over torquing them; but the rocker tip is cracked too so there may have been more to it long before I got it. The valve train is comp, has a Cam lifter and spring kit.
The push rod is as straight as a... well its as straight as a push rod. -got a feeling the one responsible for bending the bolt is me. (I work out, lol)
now I just have to find a replacement stud. I don't think I can go with another press in - because I don't have a press. I emailed ARP to see if they have any solutions, but still waiting on a reply.
Those are old 60's style heads with the rail rockers correct? Are the nuts that hold the rockers on locking nuts? If so, there is some adjustment to them. Some of the conversion kits have a very tall nut with a allen screw in the end of it to lock them down.
I looked on Summit, they have the screw in studs, but most of them were sold as a kit for the whole engine. If you look harder you may find just one that is sold.
Those are old 60's style heads with the rail rockers correct? Are the nuts that hold the rockers on locking nuts? If so, there is some adjustment to them. Some of the conversion kits have a very tall nut with a allen screw in the end of it to lock them down.
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Hm... not sure I'd call them rail rockers.... They're the ball style that sit down on the shoulder of the stud. I'm no machinist, but if I don't find some soon I'm gonna brake out the tap & die set and see what I can do
If they have a groove with "rails" on either side, with the valve stem sitting in the middle, they are the rail rockers. The rails sitting over the valve stem are what hold the rocker from spinning around. You will notice the hole the pushrod goes through in the head is very large, so the pushrod is not holding the rocker straight, it's the rails on the underside of the rocker tip hugging the valve stem.
Have you checked with a local machine shop to see if they can point you in the right direction.
If they say drill & tap they may even have the needed 1 stud.
Just my .02
Dave ----
The pedestal rockers are the later type they started using around 1977 and use bolts instead of studs.
The very early 260's and 289's used the regular stud, locking nut and ball with the regular rocker like Chevy used.
Was it common practice to put these older style heads on the first gen Bullnose trucks? Mine has an 8/79 production date so maybe they were trying to use up inventory?
Well that's not very comforting.... I just swapped out the cam and put in new springs and timing chain based on the assumption this was the original 302 that came in the truck in 1980. Will these components still work ok? I've come to the conclusion I'm just gonna have to tap the stud boss and thread in an ARP stud.... For that matter I suppose in could used the newer style rocker assy. or do they uses smaller bolts?
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