1950 F5 COE Build
#196
Rear Diff all back together...
Rear diff completely cleaned out... everything inside looks good... doesn't look like there's been any gear wear; no chips or signs of damage. One of the axle seals was weeping a bit so I replaced both wheel bearings and seals while we had it apart.
bought a new pumpkin cover gasket... no leaks
5.8 pints (basically 3 quarts) of full synthetic 75-140
all ready for the re-install.
bought a new pumpkin cover gasket... no leaks
5.8 pints (basically 3 quarts) of full synthetic 75-140
all ready for the re-install.
#197
"F O R D"
I removed the original FORD letters from the front end... saved the original clips although they were slightly deformed.
many moons ago I bought repop letters that I'll use... they wanted more than 5 times what I paid to rechrome my originals.
I'll polish these and use them on something that I'll put in my office...
Getting all the screws out of this piece proved to be a challenge... needed penetrating oil and some ... persuasion... but they all came out.
many moons ago I bought repop letters that I'll use... they wanted more than 5 times what I paid to rechrome my originals.
I'll polish these and use them on something that I'll put in my office...
Getting all the screws out of this piece proved to be a challenge... needed penetrating oil and some ... persuasion... but they all came out.
#198
Brian, I reported earlier in another thread about the quotes I got for rechroming some parts on my 55. The quote for the hood side F350 emblems was $200 each. The V-8 emblem was $135 and a little dealer emblem was $110. Whew! I knew it was going to be expensive but Wow!
So I bought a V8 emblem from Carpenter for $29 which was half price due to it being seconds as it was not up to their quality. I am not putting the dealer emblem back on and will make do with the old F350 emblems.
So I bought a V8 emblem from Carpenter for $29 which was half price due to it being seconds as it was not up to their quality. I am not putting the dealer emblem back on and will make do with the old F350 emblems.
#200
Brian, I reported earlier in another thread about the quotes I got for rechroming some parts on my 55. The quote for the hood side F350 emblems was $200 each. The V-8 emblem was $135 and a little dealer emblem was $110. Whew! I knew it was going to be expensive but Wow!
So I bought a V8 emblem from Carpenter for $29 which was half price due to it being seconds as it was not up to their quality. I am not putting the dealer emblem back on and will make do with the old F350 emblems.
So I bought a V8 emblem from Carpenter for $29 which was half price due to it being seconds as it was not up to their quality. I am not putting the dealer emblem back on and will make do with the old F350 emblems.
Yes, I agree... good chrome plating has been an expensive educational experience for me. That’s why I only chrome plated a few items that I needed on the exterior. And even that cost me about $550.
I’ll buy reproduction for all the interior door and window handles etc...
#201
#202
Glove box nameplate...
My F5 COE didn't have a glovebox nameplate when I purchased it... it's quite possible that the larger trucks didn't come with one... that's something you all can let me know...
In either case, I had asked a guy who makes & sells F1 reproduction tags for the glove box lid if he could make me one for my F5... and he said if I ordered at least 2, he would do it.
So I have an extra if anyone out there with an F5 or conventional or COE would like to have an F5 specific identification tag for your glove box, let me know.
I picked these up about a year ago and believe I paid around $25 for each.
I'm going to have a jeweler friend engrave the identification on the tag... or I may just hand stamp them myself... haven't decided yet.
In either case, I had asked a guy who makes & sells F1 reproduction tags for the glove box lid if he could make me one for my F5... and he said if I ordered at least 2, he would do it.
So I have an extra if anyone out there with an F5 or conventional or COE would like to have an F5 specific identification tag for your glove box, let me know.
I picked these up about a year ago and believe I paid around $25 for each.
I'm going to have a jeweler friend engrave the identification on the tag... or I may just hand stamp them myself... haven't decided yet.
#203
time to clean / prep the engine..
It's time to prep / paint the engine...
So I started to take off the bolt on components that I'll clean / paint separately.
I'm thinking I'll paint the block Ford blue... and all the accessories black or possibly the aluminum grey color...
2007 4.7L with just under 41K miles... I have a completely new wiring harness for this engine trans combination that I bought from Ron Francis... I'm optimistic it will work flawlessly...
trying not to lose any more parts... !!!
I can't believe how butt ugly the motor mounts look before cleaning
bead blasted... will paint soon.
So I started to take off the bolt on components that I'll clean / paint separately.
I'm thinking I'll paint the block Ford blue... and all the accessories black or possibly the aluminum grey color...
2007 4.7L with just under 41K miles... I have a completely new wiring harness for this engine trans combination that I bought from Ron Francis... I'm optimistic it will work flawlessly...
trying not to lose any more parts... !!!
I can't believe how butt ugly the motor mounts look before cleaning
bead blasted... will paint soon.
#206
decided not to paint the engine...
I've decided to clean up the 4.6L as much as possible... it was already actually quite clean (has 41K miles)...
Truth is, you'll not be able to see anything but the alternator and a little bit of the throttle body... and my entire goal is to make a reliable driver that looks fantastic on the outside & cab interior.
so that's it. I removed the OEM wiring harness / will not be using it... sealed all of the electrical connections and intake and pressure washed it...
I'm thinking I might clean the face a bit and paint all the pulley's black... the only thing I might splurge on is a painted alternator.
You can see the custom throttle body plate we made to rotate the air intake toward the front...
This engine was actually quite clean before I started... had to put another set of valve covers on it... the donor car had been in an accident that damaged the original plastic covers.
O'l greenie in the background... she's going to eventually sport an extended cab and not sure beyond that.
Since the alternator is about the only thing you'll see, I'm thinking of buying one that's painted or polished. There are plenty out there for the 4.6L Mustang's but not many for the Crown Vic 4.6L... Mine's a 2V so that may be the diff.
Truth is, you'll not be able to see anything but the alternator and a little bit of the throttle body... and my entire goal is to make a reliable driver that looks fantastic on the outside & cab interior.
so that's it. I removed the OEM wiring harness / will not be using it... sealed all of the electrical connections and intake and pressure washed it...
I'm thinking I might clean the face a bit and paint all the pulley's black... the only thing I might splurge on is a painted alternator.
You can see the custom throttle body plate we made to rotate the air intake toward the front...
This engine was actually quite clean before I started... had to put another set of valve covers on it... the donor car had been in an accident that damaged the original plastic covers.
O'l greenie in the background... she's going to eventually sport an extended cab and not sure beyond that.
Since the alternator is about the only thing you'll see, I'm thinking of buying one that's painted or polished. There are plenty out there for the 4.6L Mustang's but not many for the Crown Vic 4.6L... Mine's a 2V so that may be the diff.
#207
FWIW, I just went through an agonizing evolution with my 6.4 Powerstroke. I thought I was going to have to have an engine or turbo replacement because of the horrible grinding and chirping sound coming from it. I replaced all the idlers, belts, tensioners, and coolant pump thinking bad bearings. Even the alternator sounded good spinning by hand. Come to find out it was just a rear alternator bearing. Components bolted directly to the engine (no bracketry) make troubleshooting very difficult to isolate.
#208
Troubleshooting ...
I totally agree... Troubleshooting is often more of a problem than the problem itself. I've had a similar problem with my high pressure oil pump on my 7.3L... when I started troubleshooting, I began replacing one thing, then another and another after that... and finally after about the 5th thing and basically vaporized about $1,500 ... only then did I finally decide to replace the high pressure oil pump and now she runs better than she has in years... I try to look on the bright side: I haven't had a payment on my 7.3L F350 ifor many years... and I refuse to buy a $75K replacement. ... If I can keep any rust issues at bay, my F350 will last longer than I will.
She's really been a workhorse... this was a pic when we had about 24" of snow in 2016...
#209