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These were completely dry so I think the readings are very good for a 30 year old engine with no docs and unknown mileage.
After spraying Gunk all over the engine and waiting the requisite 15 - 20 minutes, I hosed it off. I made sure to cover the Distrib and the carb with aluminum foil. I somehow ended up with water in the oil.
Any suggestions as to how the water got in there? Any comments on the compression test?
Thanks
Last edited by povphile; Aug 31, 2003 at 10:46 PM.
A general rule of thumb on compression is no more than 10% variation between the highest and lowest cylinders. 100 is a bit low but I have seen worse. I had a 59 chevy belair with a 283 that had 100 in every hole indicating a good bit of internal wear. I drove the car about 20,000 miles and gave it to my sister for a wedding present in 91. Her oldest boy drove it all through high school until he graduated last year and drove it pretty hard. It still runs as good as it did when I got it. One good thing about it was that it cranked over easy. We had a bad storm one christmas and at 28 below it was the only car I had that would start right up without being plugged in.
Originally posted by willowbilly3 A general rule of thumb on compression is no more than 10% variation between the highest and lowest cylinders. 100 is a bit low but I have seen worse. I had a 59 chevy belair with a 283 that had 100 in every hole indicating a good bit of internal wear. I drove the car about 20,000 miles and gave it to my sister for a wedding present in 91. Her oldest boy drove it all through high school until he graduated last year and drove it pretty hard. It still runs as good as it did when I got it. One good thing about it was that it cranked over easy. We had a bad storm one christmas and at 28 below it was the only car I had that would start right up without being plugged in.
Did the same with a 67 cougar. Never did anything to that car except the timing chain. When I was done driving it, I gave it to a freind. He gave it to his dad. Finally the salt around Lake Tahoe got the better of the body. His dad pulled the engine and put it in a F-100. Far as I know the darn thing got a valve job and sees regular duty.
Originally posted by povphile I made sure to cover the Distrib and the carb with aluminum foil. I somehow ended up with water in the oil. Any suggestions as to how the water got in there? Thanks
Any chance you have a bad O ring on your distributor shaft? Or how about a intake manifold leak on the four corners where heads, block, and intake meet?
Thanks Guys. I am going to regasket the top end and front. I dont want to pull the engine just now so I will wait on the oil pan. While I have the heads off I will Prob put on new springs, and lap the valves in.
I am also going to do the rear main while i am replacing the clutch....
Sounds like I shopuld just go ahead and pull the stupid thing and do it right!
A word of caution if you're going to do a valve job only. It can create blowby because now your top end is better sealed and holds more pressure, but your rings and cylinders are still worn.
Thanks for the tip. Got the hoist and stand on the way. Just gonna do it all. Rings, Reseat the valves, gaskets, complete inspect and replace if necessary, HV oil pump etc.
Anything obvious to you guys I should keep an eye out for. I Beleive it is the 360 that came with the truck which is a camper special.
Not clear if you are re-seating the valves yourself, or sending the heads out... either way, be sure to use hardened seats. Unleaded gas, ya know. Good choice on the HV oil pump, may want to look at a HV water pump as well.
Originally posted by GolferSA Not clear if you are re-seating the valves yourself, or sending the heads out... either way, be sure to use hardened seats. Unleaded gas, ya know. Good choice on the HV oil pump, may want to look at a HV water pump as well.
I was just gonna lap the valves in with a suction cup and some valve seating compund. Didnt want to send the heads out if i could aviod it.
Was looking for an HV waterpump. The other thing i seem to have trouble locating is a set of headers. Seems easy to find for the 4wd but not so much for the 2.
Originally posted by Faithful Old Road Dog If you're going through the whole engine, you may want to inquire about costs of boring the cylinders and longer rods to make it a 390.
That will probably eat too much into an already tight budget. My goal is to make it road / service worthy as cheaply as possible and post the results as it unfolds.