Timing Cover Install Question
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Timing Cover Install Question
Hello-
1996 E-350 7.5l.
While in the process of replacing the timing chain set, I am at the point of preparing to re-install the cover. I ran into a slight issue I'm looking for guidance with.
The oil pan gasket in place is a rigid metal unit. I understand you're supposed to cut the gasket and use the stubbies that come with the new gasket set. But, cutting it looks like it will be a difficult job to do cleanly. What's the right path to take without replacing the entire oil pan gasket (which I REALLY don't want to do)?
1996 E-350 7.5l.
While in the process of replacing the timing chain set, I am at the point of preparing to re-install the cover. I ran into a slight issue I'm looking for guidance with.
The oil pan gasket in place is a rigid metal unit. I understand you're supposed to cut the gasket and use the stubbies that come with the new gasket set. But, cutting it looks like it will be a difficult job to do cleanly. What's the right path to take without replacing the entire oil pan gasket (which I REALLY don't want to do)?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Well, I decided to cut the old gasket flush with a fine tooth hacksaw. Worked great on the passenger side. The driver's side was tighter with less room and was going fine, until I did one of the dumbest things I've done in years.
Although I had wadded paper towels to trap debris from falling into the oil pan, nonetheless I still managed to slip and lose my grip on the hacksaw blade, and it naturally managed to squirm right in to the pan and well out of reach. I assume at this point the oil pan is coming off.
Any threads here on Econoline oil pan removal for the 7.5l? It looks like a big job from what I see. Much bigger than if I managed not to drop the damn hacksaw blade.
Although I had wadded paper towels to trap debris from falling into the oil pan, nonetheless I still managed to slip and lose my grip on the hacksaw blade, and it naturally managed to squirm right in to the pan and well out of reach. I assume at this point the oil pan is coming off.
Any threads here on Econoline oil pan removal for the 7.5l? It looks like a big job from what I see. Much bigger than if I managed not to drop the damn hacksaw blade.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
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Either my search skills are seriously lacking, or there just isn't any info out there, but what's the process for dropping the oil pan on the van? Can the engine be raised enough to do it, or does the engine need to come out? I can't find the answer...
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 215
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From: Bay Area
I don't know how big the opening was the blade fell into, but I would be trying a magnet tool somehow first?
Curious why it appears to be a big job? Other components in the way? Axle, or?
In my mind's eye I just see draining the oil and unbolting it and sliding it out of there.
EDIT: I just received the 2006 service manuals from delgriffith and glanced at the oil pan procedure. If it's anything like that for the 1996, I would be going to the dealer. It requires an engine lift bracket, heavy duty engine support, a lift bar adaptor, quite a bit of disassemble this and remove that, then slightly lift.....
Has a definite order of pan bolt tightening and torque specs, the type of silicone sealer and how long to let it set. If you don't get it back together in a certain amount of time, it says to pull it off, clean it up and start over.
I would be killing myself with a magnet tool trying to get it out........
Curious why it appears to be a big job? Other components in the way? Axle, or?
In my mind's eye I just see draining the oil and unbolting it and sliding it out of there.
EDIT: I just received the 2006 service manuals from delgriffith and glanced at the oil pan procedure. If it's anything like that for the 1996, I would be going to the dealer. It requires an engine lift bracket, heavy duty engine support, a lift bar adaptor, quite a bit of disassemble this and remove that, then slightly lift.....
Has a definite order of pan bolt tightening and torque specs, the type of silicone sealer and how long to let it set. If you don't get it back together in a certain amount of time, it says to pull it off, clean it up and start over.
I would be killing myself with a magnet tool trying to get it out........
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Looks like there's not a lot of room, and also I think I'll need to lift the engine for it to clear the crossmember. I'd rather not if I can avoid it.
I did try a magnetic tool grabber, but it isn't grabbing it.
I did try a magnetic tool grabber, but it isn't grabbing it.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
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Likes: 1
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
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Thankfully, I was able to barely see it with a flashlight, and was able to knock it off the oil pump housing with a coat hanger and snag it with the magnet. Cripes what a relief.
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Hotshot
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You shouldn't have cut the pan gasket. All you needed to do was loosen all the pan bolts and let the pan drop down enough to install the timing cover. Also, did you reuse the timing cover alignment dowels ? These are needed to positively located the cover in relation to the crankshaft so that the front seal doesn't leak. The oilpan gasket is a one piece reuseable design. The timing set gasket pieces were meant for the older cork pan gaskets Ford used before they switched to the one piece gasket.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
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Well, what's done is done. The one piece gasket was broken at the rubber front seal anyway, so something needed to be done regardless. I did RTV the heck out of everything and cleaned all surfaces. There were no alignment dowels on the cover or the block, by the way. But everything bolted up and at this point all I can do is cross my fingers. Worst case, I re-do it. Not desirable, but not the end of the world.