The muffler will likely have holes drilled in the pipe inside of the muffler. Best to use a standard y, the holes will disrupt scavenging.

 

Well, things are almost together. My GT40P heads should be back from the machine shop next week and my last order from RockAuto should be in Tuesday. I've got everything else sitting in the garage from motor mounts to mandrel bent exhaust bends. I want to pull the engine and do everything, then put on headers and build the exhaust. I went with a standard Y pipe and a Magnaflow 12276, hopefully it will be quiet and flow well. I do need to address the intake though. I was porting a spare 5.8 lower I bought and got a little too aggressive. There's a nice 1/4" hole all the way through now. I think I can tap it and put in a threaded plug with some locktite. I also want to finish wiring my rear winch while the engine bay is empty and may even build a new plow mount/ bumper once it goes back together. I've documented a lot of truck stuff on my YouTube channel, going to do the build as well.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvpKrk8SCwZxgjf6gzBBk3A

 

What's your YouTube username? My iPad 1 browser doesn't support fancy sites like that

 

I put a link in my post, if it doesn't work search for Guy in WY.

 

Well, I'm up to my ears in this one. Engine is on a stand, new heads are on and all I have left is to do the rear main, put the pan on and drop it back in. I think I'll have to borrow a friend's engine hoist, the one I bought is too short in both height and reach. I got the engine out with it, but it was a huge pain and I had some collateral damage. Speaking of damage I got too aggressive with my 5.0/5.8 intake project and put a hole trough the lower. Until I can get that fixed my factory intake is going back on, it's not ideal but I need the truck back together. I can swap the intake later. Hoping to get it all back in the truck tomorrow, then I have to do some little stuff like power steering lines and measure for a new belt. I removed the air pump since the factory cat is coming off as well. I found both my manifolds cracked and the egr tube broken, I'm going to buy a new tube and hopefully weld the fitting it comes with into my header.

 

Sounds like progress! If I were in Cheyenne I'd loan you my hoist. Bummer about the lower intake. I scrapped one last fall; should have held onto it.

 

Normal black pipe from home Depot works for the egr fitting on the header, or just block the egr.

I've blown through a few of the 351 intakes in numerous spots, all of which I fixed in a few minutes with a heli-arc and even a mig aluminum spool gun. Misewell fix it or take it to a welding shop and bolt it up once.

 

I thought about blocking the EGR, but I've read some stuff saying that can cost fuel mileage. I got the engine finished tonight, need to pick up some new bolts for the lower intake. I'm not too worried about fixing the one I butchered, I think I should be able to pick up a Truck Performer pretty soon.

All I have left is to do some work on the chassis, I need to finish up my rear winch stuff and possibly move my plow pump. The original installers put it at an angle where the vacuum reservoir should be, I think I can tweak it and make some more room. The vacuum reservoir is a problem, it basically has to fit on the steering shaft as it is. I bought two smaller ones out of the Explorers that I may be able to use as well.

 

Don't worry about blocking off the EGR. The entire theory of operation for the EGR system is to reduce combustion temperature so that NOX gasses are lowered.

The idea of changing fuel mileage is because the exhaust gasses displace combustible gasses. That requires a leaner tune. However, you need to open the throttle just a little more to make the same power as an engine w/o EGR.

Either way, it doesn't matter unless the government comes for your truck because of illegal mods. The mileage difference would be minimal for the intended use of the vehicle.

 

You will not lose mpg by blocking the egr. If you're curious, do it and see for yourself....it takes less than 5 minutes to block it with a penny (or 2 pennies if you have headers/manifolds with egr port)

Egr myths crack me up. Egr doesn't require a leaner tune, it results in less fuel (not leaner) because the exhaust gas that is being crammed into the intake has an air/fuel reading of 14-18:1 as read by the computer, but it's really 0:0 because it is 0 parts fuel, and 0 parts air. The computer reads the mixture and dials back fuel, but it's not leaner because it is also dialing back air by enabling the egr cycle in the first place.

 

EGR only works at low/moderate power so you don't really lose anything.

I want to keep the EGR and AIR/catalytic converter just because it works so good the way it is and it has lasted so long too.

It is cleaner too. Exhaust kills. They say you can't even commit suicide with a new car. Gotta get an old one for the carbon monoxide.

 

Well, the engine is in. Still need to put the intake and accessories back on the front, but it's in there. Passenger's side engine mount (new) gave me some real trouble getting it lined up, but it's there now. Hopefully I can have it moving under it's own power tomorrow and start building the exhaust.

 

It runs, sort of. New heads, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil, fuel filter, timing set, air pump removed and egr temporarily capped. It will start and idle well but as soon as you touch and release the throttle it will die. I can start it, put it in gear and drive it but once I come to a stop it dies. I can start it in park and let it idle, but just barely tap the throttle and it dies. I can't hear any vacuum leaks or detect any with propane and a hose. Any ideas? It never did this before and seems to start right back up afterward so I'm sure it's something I've done during this project.

 

What's the compression? Is it possible you have too much lifter preload, holding valves open? Just the first that came to mind.

 

Not sure what compression is, haven't checked it. Fuel pressure is 40 with the key on, 35 running at idle. When the engine dies it goes right back to 40.

All the rockers hit their torque specs at about 1/2-3/4 of a turn so I wouldn't think the pushrods are too long, but I could certainly be wrong.

Vacuum from the tree on the manifold is holding at about 16" according to my gauge and there's a slight miss at high rpm.