I guess I have to give credit where it's due, the old sending unit is still working, the float was full of fuel.
I'm going to check the ohms resistance tomorrow and see where things go with reassembly.
Tank was a son of a gun to get out, had to cut the strap bolts and the old hoses almost didn't release being they weren't in grasping reach. Improved some copper pipe in order to get them loose, the whole task took some serious persuasion!

Hose clamp screws backed out of the hose clamps, fuel line clips snapped, the whole sheebang all the way through.

Tank's been pressure washed inside and out and has a heater in it tonight to dry it out after stuffing some rags against a corner and tilting the tank back and forth.

 

7 hours of which about 5 were just getting hoses right and clamps tightened on the tank, the fuel gauge works again. Another hour to drive the air out of the lines, up to speed find a stop or turn and stall, up to speed find a stop or turn and stall... Less fight than under the hood anyway and it stopped stalling.

As a whole, far from easy!

 

$40 sound system installed. Not terrible for $40 although the install got a little creative.
The original radio is kind of a clam shell design and the new stereo fit into the top section tightly so I used the top half for the new mount with sections of the bottom half cut away to retain the screws for the original brackets. The screws had to be ground off in the interior but it works.




I'm not liking the RDT and have just ordered a new CDR. I'm still bouncing around ideas of venting into the fuel timing window. Almost thinking a plumbing floor flange could serve the purpose with a little manipulation.

Any reasons why I shouldn't illuminate the CDR and route to the fuel timing window?

Edit: Seems all the air didn't come out of the fuel lines. Should be as simple as someone turning the key while I hit the shrader valve at the fuel filter from what I understand, trouble is finding someone to turn the key.
Double Edit: I know I can jump the start relay and bleed the fuel system, thing is being an ambulance the relay is under a rubber sheet with a flasher and other electronics being semi-protected with this rubber sheet. I'll be making a try at it with some seriously well insulated pliers soon, after clamping back this rubber sheet and making sure due diligence is applied. Loosing key only starts really bites but the fuel gauge is working.

 

Got in some tinker time with some parts for a catch to put in place after the CDR. HF had a coupon for $3.99 ammo boxes that will fit in the battery tray on the drivers side that isn't used anymore in the ambulance.

I had read of concerns of the timing sprocket or gear bolts in use with the Banks CDR routing part so I made some changes to it and surfaced the sealing faces.
Found an old flashlight battery cap I milled to press fit on the back of the CDR I've bought. When I slide the hose over it I'll run a bead of silicone around it just in case the press fit isn't as tight as it felt or the metals react differently to heat and cooling.


Gives me enough surface area that a hose and clamp should stay in place now.


As I mentioned I went digging around at the parts store and Lowes. That brass piece is a hydrant elbow.


I milled a two step recess in the Banks part for a steel plate to retain the timing gear/sprocket bolts should they ever come loose.



Spun off a donut for the Banks part from some scrap steel, it's just about a press fit in there. I imagine it will squawk like the devil should the bolts ever let loose.

I tried making a plate first and had it cinched up a bit too tight in the mills vise so it bent as I removed metal and got thinner in the middle while face milling the mating surfaces.
I like the donut better, one less gasket to make.



Soon enough the RDT will be a thing of the passed.

Edit: No worries, I got a breather for the ammo/catch box too.

 

Not sure if anyone's keeping up here but I'll update anyway.
The CDR to catch/separator I've bailed on and just installed the CDR as intended. This leaves parts for the turbo later down the road I won't have to buy.
The CDR looked to bring back the mileage I was getting before the RDT so I went for a slightly extended test drive for a better idea during a thunder shower with mild winds at night.

True to form the drive couldn't go without the all too frequent trials and tribulations of life as I know it. The rig developed a distaste for its coolant and spit it out, luckily I caught the dummy gauge and temp light quickly and pulled over. About 12 to 15 miles from home I leap frogged the rest of the way with about hour long pit stops to cool down, watched the gauge closely and pulled over every time the temp neared normal running heat. I could have walked that distance quicker but didn't want the ticket or tow fees.

Back home after some sleep it got a bit puzzling for me as there was no moisture showing itself in the engine bay, only behind the passenger side under the patients area of the box. Out on the road the whole passenger side of the box was soaked with coolant from wheels to roof.
What I had assumed to be an electric heater that never worked in the box has coolant hoses ran to it as well as AC lines. One of the coolant lines had an inch long split in it just inches from the heating and cooling unit. Back up under the hood I found valves to shut off the hoses but didn't trust them so I rerouted the hoses to complete the cooling loop, l'll likely illuminate the AC hoses as well being their age and condition as the AF hoses nearly cost me the engine.

I had just replaced all of the belts, at least there's some relief found in not being the cause!

 

For your box air. You could use a small rv unit. Just watch your height and not go over 13.6

 

Thanks!
Similar to this unit has crossed my mind although if memory serves me I've seen them in 12 volt. With some creative placement and ducting I could likely illuminate the cab unit and clear up space for gauges and other controls besides gaining some space under the hood and passenger side dash.
Presently I'm waiting on coolant additive, test strips and a thermostat, one more system drain for a thermostat will be prior to additives going in, I'm expecting to pull a gasser stat out.
Any tip on capping the AC hoses that will likely be illuminated?
After some clean up a look at the PS is going to be in order too.
Oh yeah, ripping out the RDT stopped the whistling on start up, didn't even think about the noise when I used the electrical seal tight conduit I scavenged for the RDT.
I just did math(BTU to sqft) and thhttp://www.marinaire.com/Marine-air-...Br2GgIOnfD_BwEis larger unit looks to be more fitting although I haven't found the electrical load for it yet.

​​​

 

Look at the actual rv units. You may have to run a small generator or big DC to achieve convertor

 

Thanks Hugh,
The eventual plan includes SunPower solar, Edison batteries with a gen backup for a welder on-board and an effort to avoid holes in the roof if I can manage it. $12s won on the lotto this time so it's still on the diesel fueled back burner of dreams.

The blown coolant hose even where it was allowed steam to build on the somewhat aged air filter so an S&B is in hand now and has been prepped with K&N filter oil.

If the PO wouldn't have pulled the air intake link between the filter housing and grill I likely wouldn't be replacing the air filter this soon.

 

You may already have a hole. If there is a vent it maybe the same size

 

Yes there is a hole, it vents out the side of the box through something similar to a clothing drier vent although they're chromed. There are two more on the box for ventilation as well as one for where the oxygen bottles used to be located I believe.

There may be some smaller holes on the roof for antennas if memory serves me I might be able to utilize for solar power wiring and such.

 

For rv a/c the hole 14x14 same as a square roof vent

 

Thanks, I'm not that far along yet. The thermostat that was in the engine was a gasser type. I had the pleasure of installing the correct thermostat twice because it didn't seat into its recess properly the first time, slipped down and created a gap in the gasket. I tapped the thermostat into its recess with a hammer the second round and it sealed up fine.

 

Wow!
2017, a lot of dreams and research long forgotten!
This poor old girl had to go way back burner for too many years!
One battery's a lost cause now, pretty much playing the part of an oversized resistor, and the other isn't any spring chicken by any means, so getting this beastie started has become a bit of a challenge.
My pickup's alternator only outputs 240 amps maximum, with 175 amp rated Anderson plug behind the bumper for my seriously underwhelming jump cables/future light duty winch plan.
Any non-expensive suggestions on a jump-start means?

 

Remove the dead battery, as you say its only a big resistor now. Make sure you insulate the positive battery clamp from that battery so it doesn't short against anything.
If there is a block heater, plug that in for an hour before hand to get the block and coolant warmed up. You can also aim a hair dryer or heat gun into the intake to help warm things up.
Best option is to replace with new batteries, but if you can't at the moment and just want to move it around the yard i can understand that. Try to get the one battery charged as much as possible before you attempt to start it. You can get better jumper cables, or use multiple sets to divide the load. The batteries in your truck are strong enough to start the ambulance, just need big enough wire to get there...
You can also use another vehicle with its own set of jumper cables along with your truck to get more oomph to the vehicle, but honestly you probably need to get a good set of jumper cables.