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Rear axle tag - name this code....

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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 09:23 PM
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Rear axle tag - name this code....

Does the "L30" indicate 4.30 gears?....'00 excursion, V10, 4x4.

thanks

 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 04:19 AM
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Dag gone, thought for sure there'd be a dozen posts on this by now.

I researched, seems to be conflicting numbers, opinions, different tags, etc....
It is blank on the door jamb tag under 'axle'.

C1 is 3.73
C3 is 4.30


....and does $5k sound like a good price? Southern truck. 0 rust. 180k miles. Air bags on the rear. New-er tires. It only saw occassional use for hauling a camper.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 06:22 AM
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Yes. it seems you have a limited slip 4.30. there is another number under the bolt or half under. it would be the 4. so it would look like this 4L30. You have the best combination for a V-10.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 06:40 AM
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Thank you. Without seeing the truck in person yet, $5k seems like a good find, no?

It is not local to me
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 07:33 AM
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I agree that if it is in good shape in/out, rust free and runs well that $5K is a good deal, and that does look like a 4.30 axle tag. If you are going to travel to see and drive it check the RPMs at 60MPH in OD, under 2K will have 3.73 gears and over 2K will show 4.30 gears.
4.30s are a great match for the V-10.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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Thanks guys. I am going to get it this weekend. I've talked with the seller quite a bit and feel comfortable with making the deal thus far, without actually seeing it other than pictures.

For now, i'll only be towing a 6x12' v-nose enclosed trailer with some motorcycles...3000lbs total in the trailer. But i do plan on getting a bigger trailer, 7x14 with tandem axles. This should be plenty of truck. And down the road, i may get a toyhauler...I know it's always better to have too much truck than not enough.

With the small trailer, i shouldn't need another hitch, heavy duty rear sway bar?

I'll start reading some more.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 11:46 PM
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No upgrade needed on the hitch for a 3K lb trailer. Wait on the sway bar until you get a feel for handling while towing. You may decide to upgrade on your leaf springs. i.e. V/B or V/C.

Still, I'd like to see and drive it before paying $5k or negotiating.

Review the thread on what to look for when buying a used V10 Excursion.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-used-v10.html
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
No upgrade needed on the hitch for a 3K lb trailer. Wait on the sway bar until you get a feel for handling while towing. You may decide to upgrade on your leaf springs. i.e. V/B or V/C.

Still, I'd like to see and drive it before paying $5k or negotiating.

Review the thread on what to look for when buying a used V10 Excursion.
Right on. Definitely gonna drive it and do as much due diligence as possible. The fact that it is a 'southern' truck and is rust free, is it's main attribute for me i haven't been able to find one that was not ate up with rust....even when mileage is in the low 100k range.

And it already has air bags on the rear, so with those and being 4.30 gears, makes is more appealing for sure.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 06:31 AM
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If it is truly rust free then the 5k is worth it even if it needs some work! If I were to buy another X it would be from the south.


Good luck. get us some pics after you buy it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 Excursion camper
If it is truly rust free then the 5k is worth it even if it needs some work! If I were to buy another X it would be from the south.


Good luck. get us some pics after you buy it.
That is my thinking. It has a faulty passenger side window switch
and front seats are worn, which i would think is pretty normal for 17 yr old leather truck seats.

I'm not going into this thinking that it won't need some things. A solid, rust free truck is the platform i'm looking for.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 07:40 PM
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Bring a good flashlight!
Check the exhaust manifold studs thru the wheel well, check top and sides of engine for leaks, exhaust system, and brakes.
Parking brake, all windows and try every switch, door locks, verify ALL dash lites come on at initial key on, some folks pull the ABS, Check engine, etc. bulbs to hide problems.
Many things are easy to fix or live with, but help negotiate down the price!
I'd rather fix things myself, knowing how they were done, then trust a seller to fix something as a condition of the sale, and then have to repair their half-a$$ "fix".

Good luck, but don't be afraid to walk away if something feels wrong, there are lots to choose from, if you can afford to wait!
 
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 07:16 PM
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Reviving this thread. Door tag says C1 yet the diffs have L30 on them. How can I tell definitively what I have?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MUTAINT
Reviving this thread. Door tag says C1 yet the diffs have L30 on them. How can I tell definitively what I have?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you still have the stock 265/75R16 tires at 31.6" then the RPMs at 60 MPH will be under 2000 with 3.73s and over 2000 with 4.30 gears.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2019 | 07:37 PM
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I'll have to check that. Haven't gone 60 yet. FATGIRL loves 75-80mph pulling 2800rpm. I guess I'll slow down and use the right lane on my next expressway trip.
Thanks
 
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Old Jul 6, 2019 | 11:08 AM
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Just count it out. Jack it up and count revolutions, do some math. Not tough....
 
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