Brother what a day.
I got more into the wiring by replacing the busted up turn signal switch.
I've done this a few times with no problems.
I also replaced the voltage regulator on the printed circuit.
When I got it back together I turned the key and nothing, truck was dead. But the turn signals work
Checked to make sure I matched all the wires, Yep.
Checked fuses and had a blown emergency fuse (20 amp). Finding the size to go in there is darn near impossible. Ran around half the day looking.
Still don't have one.
As long as I'm here I'm going to post a few pics and ask you guys if you know what the connectors I'm pointing at are. Also check out the pic of the printed circuit connector. Notice the black wire in the center. Black is ground but this wire is just connected to the common ground nut on the brace right there. Doesn't seem right to me and notice it's been cut and re crimped.
I'm in the walk away and have a drink mode right now. I'm going to research all my questions but I ain't proud and will take all the help I can get.

 

From: Fordification.net (1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net)

 

The ground on the y brace is ultimately where the instrument cluster grounds but it should have done so by an indirect route through one of those existing black wires already there.

The green plug is for the radio. Make sure those aren't metal spades stuck into the hot side of that connector-if they are you will blow the fuse as soon as it grounds out. I think the radio side has the male spades on it. The hot side should be female and yellow black would be key power and blue with red stripe is dimming light circuit for illumination of radio.

Brown plug is for headlight switch activated accessories like clearance lights, trailer light relay etc.

Blue with red stripe goes to ash tray light. The light pushes into a bullet shaped metal piece that clips onto top of ash tray slider frame.

 

Thanks guys.
Those fordification diagrams are life savers HIO.
Orange thanks loads that helps a lot.

 

Print 'em on 11x17 and then have the sheets laminated!!

 

Great info guys thanks for sharing.

 

Have a feeling I should check and re ground EVERYTHING.
HIO that's a good idea to print and lam those diagrams. I use them a lot and always end up searching on computer. Would really help to have them right there as you are searching.
Anybody have a lead on those fuses?
IIRC it is a 20A 32V/303
When I searched for them I can only find fuses that are to long for the slot.

 

I'm doing this for my wiring diagrams

 

So I get home from work and go out to follow a circuit or two and started with the emergency circuit because thats the fuse that blew when what do my little eyes spy?
Pix below. Short possibilities abound

 

Yeah, it's a pain in the butt to trace a circuit backwards and forwards on a PC or phone.

I think you're finding AGC fuses which are 1.25 inches long...

What fuse length are you looking for? AGW or AGX???

AGW is 7/8-inch long.... AGX are 1-inch. Here's a guide to glass fuses: http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au...rket_glass.pdf

Glass Fuses | Automotive Glass Fuses - Littelfuse

 

WOW HIO
Where do you find this stuff.
Its 1/4 by 7/8
Thanks loads dude that is a pretty neat piece of reference material and vendor.
You're the best.

 

Researching stuff is a personal forte I suppose.... prolly from my college days wandering the stacks at Cal Poly's (SLO) Kennedy library and feeding my persistent intellectual hunger.

 

More cleaning up and tracing circuits today.
The no start deal was because the neutral safety switch had to be cleaned and re aligned.
Got it running again and took it over for a new pair of shoes.

 

I got the new shoes put on then my brother Ryan finally got into town.
Told him I was going to paint the thing and while I was at work he did it.
Pretty amazing what you can do with a decent rattle can. Here's the before and after. Rustoleum premium enamel BTW.

 

He could wet-sand that hood out, and end up with unbelievably nice paint.