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I don't have an Autozone anywhere near here, the best I can do is Napa and Schucks unless I drive to Spokane, and I'm not sure what's up there. Any chance I could get a reman from Napa cheaper?
Pastmaster, yeah, I was getting a nice lil' squeel when first turning over. So I replaced pump and pressure hose, and it fixed that problem. Then my steering started to become VERY sloppy and no amount of adjustment to the gear box would help.
Now all is very nice.
Originally posted by superduty4x4 I don't have an Autozone anywhere near here, the best I can do is Napa and Schucks unless I drive to Spokane, and I'm not sure what's up there. Any chance I could get a reman from Napa cheaper?
I personally haven't had good luck with autozone parts, but I haven't ever had a Autozone gearbox either.
I used O'Reilly's A1 Cardone remanufactured with a lifetime warranty.
With 162,000K I'd say it's your steering box that needs to be replaced. Rebuilt should be $170 and you need to give them your old one. YOU NEED THE PITMAN ARM PULLER! I'd tried 2 other pullers and bend the ***** out of them! Rent the puller if you can. Don't do anymore alignment stuff because you will need to possibly re-align after the new one is on 'cause it might be a little different. Like having to readjust your tie rods so your steering wheel is straight. You can do this yourself, but I would count on having a friend help you if possible. Follow the instructions in the Haynes manual.
And pick up some beer before your hands get too greasy!
Harry
What are the chances Schwab's will bite the bullet and realign again for me if I replace the box? I guess I could always take it to the Schwab in the next town, they wouldn't know the difference.
Went to Schucks today- I can get the reman A1 Cardone gearbox for $197.99, $93 core, $110 deposit on a Pitman arm puller that I'd get back when I was done. That's over $400! Eek. Any chance I can get them to match the cheaper price of $170?
You can always find them on Ebay as well. There are quite a few used and rebuilt ones on there. Some for less than $100. The only difference between some of those is the lack of any warranty. But if you're hurting for cash that bad, it's an option.
To me, the extra dough for the warranty is worth it, not to mention the shipping charges. Someday I won't be a college student and will actually have money for stuff like this without having to worry about paying my bills.
southy7 has the right idea, ball joints. i had the same problem, my brother had the same problem, my uncle had the same problem. they don't even show like they are worn out, they sieze up. easy way to check them is to disconnect the tie rods from the spindles with the wheel off the ground and with one hand on each side of the tire try to turn it back and forth. if its hard to turn the ball joints are siezing up, replace both uppers and lowers. wast of time to replace just one, because the others will follow shortly.
Originally posted by jarrod316 southy7 has the right idea, ball joints. i had the same problem, my brother had the same problem, my uncle had the same problem. they don't even show like they are worn out, they sieze up. easy way to check them is to disconnect the tie rods from the spindles with the wheel off the ground and with one hand on each side of the tire try to turn it back and forth. if its hard to turn the ball joints are siezing up, replace both uppers and lowers. wast of time to replace just one, because the others will follow shortly.
I tried this tonight on the left-hand side tire while I was rotating my tires. I pulled the tire off, knocked the tie rod end loose, and tried to turn the spindle by hand- that bad boy wouldn't move hardly at all. With the tie rod disconnected, nothing should have prevented it from turning, right? I cold move it maybe 1/4" each way by hand. I also noticed that the caliper seemed to be dragging a little bit- could this be part of my problem?
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