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Adjustable camber sleeves

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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 11:02 AM
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Adjustable camber sleeves

I have a 2013 E350. A local shop want $800+ to replace the fixed oem camber sleeves with adjustables to correct the camber-no other work other than that and an alignment after. They claim it requires partial disassembly of the knuckles to remove/replace them. I turned it down and looked up the procedure when I got home. It looks to me like they install from the top and can be pulled/pried out after loosening the pinch bolt. Can anybody confirm this? Thanks
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Yes. Very simple job on a 2013. That shop is taking you to the cleaners!!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 11:47 AM
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That's what I thought but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I do all my own repairs and thought they must be nuts when I looked at it after getting home. Parts already ordered to do myself, and then time to find someone else to do the alignment.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 04:22 PM
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Serious ripoff, I was able to change ours in a driveway.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 04:26 PM
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I had a Ford dealer in Indiana charge me a ridiculous amount of money to program RKE fob. I found out later I could do it free myself. I should've read the owners manual sooner.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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You do not even have to remove the wheel to do that! It is better if you do, but it's a 30 minutes job for both sides.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 03:00 PM
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I was told a similar story. I paid for life time alignment and got the readings from the alignment shop. I bought non-adjustable camber bushings.

Do not use adjustable camber sleeves unless you really know what you are doing. The fixed degree sleeves work great and are cheap. I bought 2 for $26.

Here is what I did: if it was of by 3 degrees, I bought a -3 degree camber bushing.

They are easy to install. Set the car on jacks stands. Remove both wheels and place under van. It's been over a year, so I cannot remember everything. You have to remove the tire rod from the steering knuckle. You will see all the stuff you have to remove. I bought a 48 ounce hammer at harbor freight to loosen things.

You can pop out the camber sleeve with a crow bar or large screw driver. I stuck the crow bar in the slit that holds camber sleeve. Came right out!

I bought Specialty Products camber sleeves rom Amazon. I called them and got help on the tech line. 800-525-6505

It took less than 30 minutes per side and I was spot on! The alignment shop was amazed because they wanted $300.




There is an alignment grove. Line up with the spreading slit.

Since you are pulling all this apart, JWA suggested I replace the ball joints as this effects alignment. I removed the steering knuckles and brought to a shop and had them remove the old ball joints and install new ones. The ball joints were toast.

I am so glad that I did all this rather than having to redo at a later date for more money. Just saying...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 09:44 PM
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Thanks all for the tips and suggestions! This van is only at 32k miles right now.

I bought adjustable camber sleeves with the mindset that once the camber correction is dialed in, using the rest of the adjustability to get more caster for better highway handling. After doing more research I've found a local alignment specialty shop that sounds like should be competent at doing the adjustment.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2017 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DudeAbides
Thanks all for the tips and suggestions! This van is only at 32k miles right now.

I bought adjustable camber sleeves with the mindset that once the camber correction is dialed in, using the rest of the adjustability to get more caster for better highway handling. After doing more research I've found a local alignment specialty shop that sounds like should be competent at doing the adjustment.
i can appreciate the idea of wanting to fine tune it for highway driving. But is there actually any room to do so? What are your numbers now?

more importantly, how can you adjust camber without changing the caster? Looking at the adjustment sleeve from the theoretical top downward: Axis left and right would be for camber, and axis front/rear would be for caster. How do you plan to change one without affecting the other?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2017 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
i can appreciate the idea of wanting to fine tune it for highway driving. But is there actually any room to do so? What are your numbers now?

more importantly, how can you adjust camber without changing the caster? Looking at the adjustment sleeve from the theoretical top downward: Axis left and right would be for camber, and axis front/rear would be for caster. How do you plan to change one without affecting the other?
The adjustable sleeves are two sleeves in one and both are offset, so depending on how oriented they can adjust both...to an extent. Mine ended up needing enough camber adjustment on one side that they couldn't add any more caster.

Now that my tires are worn uneven, time for some new rubber. Deciding between 235/85r16 and 265/75r16. Anybody have experience with 235's on an e350?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DudeAbides
The adjustable sleeves are two sleeves in one and both are offset, so depending on how oriented they can adjust both...to an extent. Mine ended up needing enough camber adjustment on one side that they couldn't add any more caster.

Now that my tires are worn uneven, time for some new rubber. Deciding between 235/85r16 and 265/75r16. Anybody have experience with 235's on an e350?
two sleeves in one- that makes sense now.

Factory tire size on mine is 245xx 16". Also listed is 225xx.

Check your door sticker, maybe it's listed.

What is your goal? Big size for looks/performance? Or smaller size for economy/similar?
 
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