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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Duraspark retarding during startup

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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 06:49 PM
  #16  
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Update on DSI module conundrum

I have the old box in and is firing up fine but the whole issue with the new box has been driving me nuts... To review- the 2 new boxes-Wells and a Motorcraft cause a struggled start as if out of time . Old box works fine. All boxes are Blue grommet.... "BUT"!!!!.. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THE ARRGEMENT\SEQUENCE OF THE COLORS OF THE WIRES COMING FROM THE BOXES ARE DIFFERENT. Old is red-wht-grn-blk-pur-or(from the outside edge) and the new is gr-blk-or-pur-red-wht. I had a store credit band have ordered another new module with the same wire sequence aqs the old box...'l bet $5.00 that's it... why....I have no idea....To be continued
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 06:33 AM
  #17  
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There may well be a different pin out on the circuit board inside the module.
Electronics have come a LONG way since the mid 1970's when DuraSpark was introduced.

​​​​​​​I think Reamer was going to open up some modules and compare the boards inside.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 09:35 AM
  #18  
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Reamer??? I would really like to see some internal working info posted. When this whole episode began I tried to find someone who could bench test a module and diagnose any issues. Hit a dead-end tracking down anybody.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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Yes, that's his username.
iirc he intended to ventilate a Motorcraft module with a cooling fan.

There were some schematics cross posted from an AMC site

 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 10:48 AM
  #20  
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I wonder if Gary would check the 2 he has mounted, 1 is a back up, in big blue to see if the colors match up?
I know he posted he was having the same hard start hot and switch boxes and now ok.
Dave ----
 
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Old Apr 23, 2017 | 05:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Black Ford XLT
5432 , nice looking truck, I also had the hard timing crank up ,but after a hot engine run.Go to store cut off truck get back in and it seemed like it wasn't cranking .This had been doing this sporadically ever since I switched to the duraspark 2.At first I dismissed it for not having the clutch depressed Etc... This was only after a hot engine run. Recently swapped the duraspark over to the msd 6a and problem solved ,Good luck TR

Something wasn't right, because that is not normal.

The MSD ignition doesn't do anything better than a properly functioning Dura Spark II ignition does.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:07 PM
  #22  
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Blue Gromet Wire sequence

I will be Dammed....The wire color sequence is the key. Wells and Mototrcraft/Autolite have a different wire sequence coming out of the box than the Standard unit has... I put in a new Standard unit and whamoooo..Just like downtown....Working like a champ...Old box must be a Standard...All are Blue grommet....
Now...Why?!!!!!!!
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:23 PM
  #23  
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I have noticed that the original Motorcraft Dura Spark II modules are much larger and heavier than the new Motorcraft modules Ford sells today.

In fact, the newer Motorcraft modules don't look all that much different than any of the aftermarket Chinese modules made today. They are all smaller and much lighter than the original modules.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:42 PM
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Circuits today are much more efficient and probably don't need as big a heat sink as they did in the mid 1970's.

IC's and surface mounted components are much more compact than they ever have been.
 
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I wonder if Gary would check the 2 he has mounted, 1 is a back up, in big blue to see if the colors match up?
I know he posted he was having the same hard start hot and switch boxes and now ok.
Dave ----
Good question. I will check tomorrow.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #26  
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Lariat , I agree with you on the MSD theory, my module was purchased at Rock auto , blue grommet(standard).After a good drive ,Ac on hotsummer temps( high humidity) ,cut off the truck get back in after 5 mins it would crank,then stop as if it was the timing(dragging ).Weird it didn't do this all the time .Since then I installed an electric fuel pump and the msd ignition .I also had a 1979 ford 150 that acted the same way (351m motor--).Same symptoms .Sure would like to see a schematic of the internals on a duraspark.TR
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 54321toz
I have the old box in and is firing up fine but the whole issue with the new box has been driving me nuts... To review- the 2 new boxes-Wells and a Motorcraft cause a struggled start as if out of time . Old box works fine. All boxes are Blue grommet.... "BUT"!!!!.. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THE ARRGEMENT\SEQUENCE OF THE COLORS OF THE WIRES COMING FROM THE BOXES ARE DIFFERENT. Old is red-wht-grn-blk-pur-or(from the outside edge) and the new is gr-blk-or-pur-red-wht. I had a store credit band have ordered another new module with the same wire sequence aqs the old box...'l bet $5.00 that's it... why....I have no idea....To be continued
This is interesting. I have a similar, but not exact, experience. I have two DS-II modules mounted on the fender of Big Blue, and one retards the spark and the other doesn't. And, their wire color sequences are different. In fact, the one that does retard the spark has the same color sequence that 54321toz mentioned of red-wht-grn-blk-pur-or, although I'd have read them the other way 'round.

Here's the one that retards the spark, and you can see that it carries no product name nor part #:




And, here's the one that doesn't retard the spark. But, while it doesn't have the same wire color sequence of the ones that do retard the spart, it doesn't have the same sequence as the one 54321toz reported of wht-red-pur-or-blk-gr (turned around to match the first one). Mine is red-wht-blk-gr-pur-or. And, as you can see, it says Duraspark and Motorcraft and carries the #E8PF-2A199-AA.



So, is red-wht-grn-blk-pur-or the sequence on all modules that retard the spark? Let's hear from others.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:28 PM
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Guys - I'm wondering about testing the modules on the truck. As you can see here (Start, Ignition, & Carb Circuits - ???Gary's Garagemahal), it is the red/light blue wire from the stater relay/solenoid that triggers the box to retard. If you start the truck and then pull the wire off the starter relay/solenoid you can turn the key to the Start position w/o engaging the starter. But, that should retard the timing, which will slow the engine. If it doesn't slow the engine then it didn't retard the timing.

Thoughts?
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:33 PM
  #29  
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I think you should just use a timing light.
then apply power to the 'retard' wire and see if the marks move back towards tdc.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #30  
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This is my ignition module, not sure that is retarding timing or not. No model number or markings on it at all, of course I didn't keep the old one...
Name:  ign.jpg
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Size:  5.58 MB
 
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