Heater incomplete
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 123
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From: Inland Empire, CA
Heater incomplete
Looking for some help with my heater, not that I always need it in SoCal.
Coming out of my fire wall, passenger side, I have two cut hoses, with only 2-4 inches left.
I also have a cable from the dash that looks like the lines might run thru, to open or close?
And under the carb it runs thru too? but I have no reference to what im missing or how it all connects. 1969 F250, 390/c6.
Coming out of my fire wall, passenger side, I have two cut hoses, with only 2-4 inches left.
I also have a cable from the dash that looks like the lines might run thru, to open or close?
And under the carb it runs thru too? but I have no reference to what im missing or how it all connects. 1969 F250, 390/c6.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
1969 F250 390/C6:
Looking for some help with my heater, not that I always need it in SoCal.
Coming out of my fire wall, passenger side, I have two cut hoses, with only 2-4 inches left.
I also have a cable from the dash that looks like the lines might run thru, to open or close?
Looking for some help with my heater, not that I always need it in SoCal.
Coming out of my fire wall, passenger side, I have two cut hoses, with only 2-4 inches left.
I also have a cable from the dash that looks like the lines might run thru, to open or close?
C3UZ-18495-A .. Cable Controlled Heater Water Valve (Motorcraft YG-133) / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
1963/67 Econoline; 1965/66 F100/1100; 1967/72 F100/750; 1968/72 F100/350 with factory A/C
This valve gets stuck shut or in the partially open/closed positions.
People don't know where to get a replacement, so they remove it, then using a 5/8" I.D. pipe and hose clamps, connect the inlet and outlet heater hoses together.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
The fitting on the manifold connects to the control valve and then to the heater core. The output of the heater core, now with cooler coolant, connects to the water pump fitting.
Here's the routing. Note the directions of flow shown with arrows in the image below:
Here's the routing. Note the directions of flow shown with arrows in the image below:
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Here is the fitting ya need. I got it from National Parts Depot.. PN is shown in the pic.
It's not in NPD's truck catalog... I had to refer to their Mustang catalog since they too were equipped with the FE but without the de-icing plate.
It's not in NPD's truck catalog... I had to refer to their Mustang catalog since they too were equipped with the FE but without the de-icing plate.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
If nothing comes out, poke each hole with a stiff wire and stand clear because a torrent of scale and muck will fly out at ya. Flush thoroughly!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
There's also an after market replacement for that valve usually available at the local big box auto parts store. Similar, but not exact. Watch for them to have an incorrect size on one of the nipples. there are a couple of different versions, but still cheaper than the resto part.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
I understood you to say you have 2 cables. The photo shows the one where your assumption is correct. On the passenger side cable, it has a round eyelet that connects to the gate valve inline with the heater hose that goes to your heater core (the 2 hoses that are cut short)
If in fact there is another cable under or at the carb, that would be your manual choke cable.
HIO, thanks for the PN on the tree. I need this for **** truck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,241
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From: Rockville, Ct.
Is there a reason why the original has a longer neck beneath the threads?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Not sure about the extended neck.. maybe to avoid backflow from the heater core cuz the T-stat is at the same elevation?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 123
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From: Inland Empire, CA
After looking it over have the adaptor from the Thermostat housing and the water pump for the hose, they are installed and looped together. I decided to change my plugs and wires this weekend instead 
So my question now is can I/or is it not recommended; use a 5/8 M/M connector to the little bit of hose from the fire wall, or should I replace all the way to the core in the cab? and if its best I go in the cab someone tell me its worth it and not a royal PIA.
I think I need about 10' 5/8 ID heater hose, 8 hose clamps, and some beer.
So my question now is can I/or is it not recommended; use a 5/8 M/M connector to the little bit of hose from the fire wall, or should I replace all the way to the core in the cab? and if its best I go in the cab someone tell me its worth it and not a royal PIA.
I think I need about 10' 5/8 ID heater hose, 8 hose clamps, and some beer.
that's a priority.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 123
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From: Inland Empire, CA
just what I thought, Id hate a foot of old to fail the rest. Core easy to get to, or should I up my 6-pack to a 12?