Low idle, missing
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Dunno where it is, but it is shown as the 1.1 ohm resistance wire at the top of Page 18 here: Start, Ignition, & Carb Circuits - ???Gary's Garagemahal
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
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Ahhh, I see it. Thank you. Not that it was an actual issue with my truck... initially i was wondering if it was an actual resistor like in the older rigs that had spade connectors or whatnot that could use a cleaning. In this process I have noticed that many of my electrical components could use some attention.
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Okay, so now im back to working on this truck... I was gone for 2 months now I gotta get this thing running right. So, my distributor pick up tested bad so I replaced the distributior... however when I got the new distributor in it ran the same. So I tested it and discovered my multimeter was no good. So, here's a life lesson to test your test equipment! Anyhow, I swapped out the duraspark module with a known good one just to eliminate that as a issue. I also replaced the sparkplugs and wires. I cleaned all of the electrical connections in the harness that goes to the ignition. Still runs the same- low idle, missing, lopy sound. Just for the heck of it today I pulled a major vac line to see what would happen with a big vacuum leak... it idled higher and ran better. No, it didn't run perfect, but a lot smoother. When I changed my plugs the other day they were fairly black, like it was running rich. So, with this new information, does anyone havery any suggestions? Oh yeah, I should mention that it has a edlbroc performer carb on it that was rebuilt a year ago and was running great up until recently and new carb to manifold gasket.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Obviously your air/fuel ratio is quite rich at idle. If you've opened up the idle air screws a turn or two with no improvement, then try this: I've had a problem a couple of times where something was clogging the air passage into the idle circuit on a Performer. In both cases I pulled the idle air/fuel mix adjusting screws, counting the turns they were out, and blew compressed air through the holes. Put the screws back in the same number of turns, and the problem was solved.
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I actually did just that. Someone suggested that and so I did but it didn't help. Makes me wonder if I need to pull apart the carb for a cleaning? I do have 2 inline filters, but I suppose something could have got past them. Could a float have sunk or something?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, a float could easily have sunk - if the floats are brass. Plastic floats don't tend to sink abruptly, but brass ones can.
So, pull it apart and see. You can take the top off without pulling the carb.
So, pull it apart and see. You can take the top off without pulling the carb.
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Sounds good, I will get on it probably tomorrow. Yes the floats are brass. Any other suggestions on things to check while I have the top of the carb off?
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Just in case, here's a link to the manual: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf.
On the ticking, is there any chance it is a spark? That might play into the miss at idle.
On the ticking, is there any chance it is a spark? That might play into the miss at idle.
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As far as the tick goes, I have brand new plug wires and new plugs... the only thing that isn't new in the ignition is the coil and cap/rotor. So, I would hope my brand new Belden wires aren't arcing! I will keep an eye on any wild arcing