When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Fired it up, drove it out of the garage to take registration/ insurance pics, then started it again & backed it up into her bay- no issues.
Just looked up reverse gear : 7.82:1. I can only imagine driving this in 1st gear (6.40) and low range out back (8.11). My buddy told me the other rod next to the choke was a sort of hand throttle… with as challenging as this truck is to climb in (& out) of, that sounds like a real tempting of fate. Maybe the hand throttle is why so many COE's got bashed grilles/fenders.
The hand throttle is used when you are warming it up when you first start it. Once you are under way you can control the throttle with your foot. It is not a cruise control by design. But if you want to run it over a cliff, you are all set for that.
Because of the spring return on the throttle, the hand throttle returns to idle when you let go of the ****. So I don't see it being useful for winter warmup or cruise control use.
I use it to start on a hill with a load. With right foot on the brake to hold the truck in place and left foot to engage the clutch, I use the hand throttle to raise the engine speed while engaging the clutch.
Also useful for starting the engine while having my right foot on the brake to keep the truck from rolling.
The emergency brake isn't up to the task of holding the truck on a hill.
^ Understood- thanks.
Here in central NJ, it's depressingly flat for the most part, and I won't ever be loading my truck. I don't have the hand throttle lever handy anyway.
For warmup a friend of mine uses a wooden clothes pin. He pulls the hand throttle out and then clamps the clothes pin on the metal shaft so that the hand throttle can't return all the way to the closed position.
For warmup a friend of mine uses a wooden clothes pin. He pulls the hand throttle out and then clamps the clothes pin on the metal shaft so that the hand throttle can't return all the way to the closed position.
My hand throttle has enough tension/resistance on it so it will stay out (higher RPM) when pulled. Works good for initial warm-up and when running the PTO.
I bought a nice chrome T handle cable at Napa. When twisted clockwise it locks at that position. VERY handy, and looks 'old skool.'
I had a factory Ford twist lock throttle from a 60s school bus, matched my choke *****. But it finally broke and I nought the one you have with the chrome T
Can either of you post a photo or a link to that twist lock throttle cable?
In a COE the carburetor is just in front of the throttle and choke *****, so the linkage is just 8 inches or so of solid steel rod rather than a long enclosed flexible cable.
My '40 has this device on the pass dash side. Steel bracket w 3 screws to dash, steel 'Z' arm, AL clip with (broken) masonite piece. It swivels: from the shown position backward & down, UE; folded against the dash.
Prior to thinking much about it, I was absently thinking it was a sort of clipboard, but in looking at it again, I think it's a placard, meant to fold up into the shown position and have some sort of word there ('Delivery'?)
Anyone ever seen something like this or have any other info?
My 1940 1-1/2 ton panel fire engine has a locking t-handle manual throttle to maintain engine speed while pumping. It has a cable looped around the throttle ball connector. I want to adapt the cable to a female ball connector. Any thoughts? Sorry, I missed the cable/sheath end that should have been at the upper right. The cable sheath is anchored to the bracket just visible in the picture.
I keep saying "It's to be expected" but the hiccups still make a little nuts.
Generator was sqealing after running a while/warming up. There were also double lock washers between the gen & pulley. I did end up taking it to a generator shop- they said the front bearing was gouging the shaft, they brazed the shaft & turned it, installed a spacer vs. the lock washers & replaced both bearings. Tested it and the 1960s regulator, said it was doing fine.
After the semi-arduous task of replacing the fan-mounted gen & reconnecting/refilling the coolant, I drove the truck in my driveway, between testing the gen output at the battery (good!) and running it less than I would say 10 minutes, the squeal I am 95% sure came from the generator started up again! Of course, with the gen supposedly checked out, now I'm thinking scarier thoughts, like internal engine... like bearings.
I'm at my wits end on this one.
- - - - -
On top of that, I did the whole procedure to remove the speedo cable/sheath once it was determined the cable was broken. Drop driveshaft & loosen up parking brake to get at trans end of cable. Was broken about 4 inches from that end, all untwisted inside.
Did a nice cleaning of the sheath, white litium grease on the new NOS cable, reinserted & buttoned everything back up. In that same very short driveway test, where it drove less than 300 feet, the speedo needle didn't budge.
Disconnected at speedo, drove again a short distance, cable turned fine. NOS speedo was varnished up tight as a drum. My oversight!! Pulled the speedo, in the process of cleaning it out/freeing it up. Naturally I'm now also worried about the new cable- if the speedo was locked up but the cable was turning, I MUST have screwed the new cable and it's just hanging by a thread.
Disconnected at speedo, drove again a short distance, cable turned fine. NOS speedo was varnished up tight as a drum. My oversight!! Pulled the speedo, in the process of cleaning it out/freeing it up. Naturally I'm now also worried about the new cable- if the speedo was locked up but the cable was turning, I MUST have screwed the new cable and it's just hanging by a thread.
Truck for sale!
No need to worry about the new cable if the transmission is reasonably clean inside and running free. The speedo gear is not a solid connection to the tail shaft, rather it is turned by a "lack of resistance". On the 4-speed crash box the speedo gear is an un-splined fit over the tail shaft and the brake drum flange pushes it against bearing #7065 by way of tightening nut 351165 at the back. When the rear of the trans is all assembled I can rotate the speedo gear with my finger. I thought mine must certainly be broken until I looked into it a bit and realized that it is by design. It's wedged just tight enough to overcome the typical resistance of the speedometer assembly, and the accuracy of the speedo can be adjusted using the spring in the dash cluster. If the speedo is jammed up, the gear in the transmission should be stopped without much ill effect (especially at low speed).
I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around that... but my speedometer works fine.
UPDATE : ran the truck today, 300' down the driveway, about 200' down the street and the squeal returned. got it back to the shop and took the belts off and restarted- it was still squealing. Not the generator, pretty sure it's a vacuum leak at the carb. The carb is rebuilt and the gaskets are all new, mating surfaces were eyeballed and looked fine, but going to replace the gasket.
Any recommendations? I recall reading something about a copper gasket. If that was incorrect, is it thought to be OK to use a sealant? At least it's something relatively simple vs. the dist. or gen.
ALso, tho odometer works, but the speedo doesn't seem to. Will check again- I wasn't going over 5 MPH today.
