Clutch
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New User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5
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From: Marlboro
Clutch
1987 F150 4x4 4spd
Is there any way to isolate or plug off the clutch master from the slave?
Back before they started using plastic lines you could plug the master, stand on it and see if it held or not.
I'd like to do the same on the "money pit" but need advice as to what to use, if it's possible.
Is there any way to isolate or plug off the clutch master from the slave?
Back before they started using plastic lines you could plug the master, stand on it and see if it held or not.
I'd like to do the same on the "money pit" but need advice as to what to use, if it's possible.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Marlboro
Clutch
Thanks for the reply, sorry I couldn't get back sooner.
Clutch pedal has too much freeplay. There are no leaks, the firewall does not flex, nothing is bent, etc.
To me it's just your basic hydraulic problem. I just don't want to guess it's the slave and $85 later it's the master. Being able to isolate one from the other would seem the way to go.
Clutch pedal has too much freeplay. There are no leaks, the firewall does not flex, nothing is bent, etc.
To me it's just your basic hydraulic problem. I just don't want to guess it's the slave and $85 later it's the master. Being able to isolate one from the other would seem the way to go.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 13
Clutch
Be careful you can split that plastic housing if you try to pressure test the master. I have done that by accident when I didn't take the top off the master while pushing the slave piston back. The cost of these are outragous for what they are. A plastic molding a thin steel tube a spring and a piston and thats it. And I can not find a rebuilt kit for them. I would try bleeding it, if yours has a bleeding screw.
