To bad I just saw this thread with your update , mine has quite a noticeable back rake and since it was installed by PO and I found he had not built any pinion angle in ( not that hard to correct ) I temporarily installed the engine and trans and took it in for a 4 wheel alignment and everything was fine .

 

My truck has the same set back on the half shafts. The wheels are in the right spot, in that they centre on the wheel wells. Just assumed that was normal. You could talk to Flat Out. They were great to deal with since I got my project half done and no instructions.

 

I agree they were great to deal with. Nice fellas for sure. Don and I both scratched our heads on why that front bracket dimension didn't work out. I'm not 100% sure that I don't have something incorrect and won't be until I have it aligned. But my camber and toe are both looking good in the shop and everything else seems to be spot on.

Anyone really push it for tires and wheels? The stock corvette take offs I have leave me over an inch between the tire and the front bracket bolts, but there is very little room between the tire and the truck box. I want to put a lot of rubber back there, so I figured I would bring the tire in a little with offset, and put very small tubs in since it is so close anyhow. Then perhaps section the fenders a bit to get more room to the outside. I have even seen a video of making the wheel opening a bit smaller, which is tempting with the way these 16" take offs look in the opening. But going with 20" may change the look up.

I used the Flatout front too, and there seems to be a lot of room with the take off fronts. I was thinking 19" wheels in the front and 20" in the back. I understand that brake kits are not common for these, but I do want to go bigger front and back.

 

Glad to hear that you got things figured out. As for engine mounts I used a pre built set from Full Tilt Street Rods. Like anything it required some modifications but seems to be very solid.

I did typical 12' wheel out back. The wheels I picked out and the 87 rear end I used (1' narrower than the later c4 vets) rubbed the bed. So I put on 1" wheel spacers. I did not want to tub the bed. I instead widened the fenders by 1.75". Was a lot of work but well worth it in the end.

I was just starting to teach myself to TIG weld so was a great way to really practice. The fender from is about 6' in length of you measure from one end all the way over to the other end. So this 24' of welding to really start to learn the basics. This really helped me in other task I needed to do. Boxing plates, smoothing firewall, and a bunch of other stuff during th project.

 

I like the looks of that kid. But dumb question: Does it only bolt to the block with two bolts per side?

I'm thinking tig may be the way to go on the fender, as it tends to cut back on the grinding process.

 

Yes it bolts to the block in the stock mounting holes on both sides. You then just set the arm to where you need it to be. I used a mig welder to tack it in place then went to the mig to get a nice looking bead.

 

I am using American racing torque thrusts 17 x 10.5 with 28" tires with a 92c4 diff and have 1/4 " clearance on the front bolts and will need to tub

 

My front end is also very narrow not sure what the reasoning would be and don't know what kit was used but it makes buying rim's a pia " corvette offset rear and 0 offset front and still a little too narrow for me

 

Just some food for thought..I'm also installing a c4 set up front and rear on my 51 and my rear half shafts were slightly angled back looking from the top,(toe out) but the fact that stock they use rubber on both ends of the link rods, chevy might have set them this way to be straight during acceleration. checking the corvette alignment spec's could confirm this. just food for thought.

 

As I posted mine are noticeable back but aligns fine I am guessing the purpose would be to always have an angle on the shafts regardless of height as straight will wear u joints .