"puking" degas bottle
I've come to really like these programs after I got used to them. So much easier to use than breaking out the Snap On scanner and setting it up. Plus you can set up a cheap tablet and leave it in the true k to monitor it all the time. Keeps you out of trouble.
In post 27 you say the fan runs way too often, especially with the air on. I generally can't hear my fan below 1800 RPM. It's patently obvious at 2200 RPM. It does seem reasonable a fan clutch could be at fault, but if you can hear the fan, it should be turning fast enough to cool things down, especially with just 6K behind it.
The ScanGauge is not as popular with Torque and ForScan but I use it for daily monitoring. It's still not a bad investment even at $150.
The ScanGauge is not as popular with Torque and ForScan but I use it for daily monitoring. It's still not a bad investment even at $150.
Well, as soon as I get a chance I'll replace the fan clutch and pull the water pump for inspection. How much coolant should I drain? Motorcraft fan clutch $250 to $300.
Bluetooth adapter is supposed to be here Friday. Bought a $50 one.
What do you mean do I have heat? Like when the heater is running or does the truck get hot running unloaded?
Bluetooth adapter is supposed to be here Friday. Bought a $50 one.What do you mean do I have heat? Like when the heater is running or does the truck get hot running unloaded?
Well, as soon as I get a chance I'll replace the fan clutch and pull the water pump for inspection. How much coolant should I drain? Motorcraft fan clutch $250 to $300.
Bluetooth adapter is supposed to be here Friday. Bought a $50 one.
What do you mean do I have heat? Like when the heater is running or does the truck get hot running unloaded?
Bluetooth adapter is supposed to be here Friday. Bought a $50 one.What do you mean do I have heat? Like when the heater is running or does the truck get hot running unloaded?
. In the meantime get a pressure gauge, a T-fitting, and hose and check the coolant degas bottle pressure. Your coolant cap should also be checked if not replaced if it's old due to the high fail rate.
CMK, yeah it did blow hot. Not run you out hot but hot. It's done this since the day I've bought/traded over a month ago. Unloaded my truck runs great. Temps are spot on.Yeah crewdually, I replaced the cap about a week after I bought it. So far I've replaced the degas cap, vc and distilled flush with the block plugs out. I checked the oil return tube for melting after we got home. All good.
Check the wiring for the fan clutch. If that all checks out you might have a bad clutch.
As far as I can tell my fan isn't working at all unless the a/c is running. With the a/c on and the fan running it's sounds like it is at max speed. Literally so fast it is drained the power of my truck. Now torque pro isn't giving me a fan reading at all, even with the a/c on. Now egr delete was installed and I'm searching for a disconnected connector laying around in the area of where the egr valve would be. I see nothing.
We took a trip to the lake over the weekend and on the way there and back I was afraid to get above 70 mph. The oil temp would rise with my speed. At 70 mph oil temps would reach about 210 and ect about 200. My guess is if I went any faster the temps would rise even higher.
I'm still not sure which route to take and replace first. Now I feel like I should buy an egr valve to see if I can get the fan to work properly.
We took a trip to the lake over the weekend and on the way there and back I was afraid to get above 70 mph. The oil temp would rise with my speed. At 70 mph oil temps would reach about 210 and ect about 200. My guess is if I went any faster the temps would rise even higher.
I'm still not sure which route to take and replace first. Now I feel like I should buy an egr valve to see if I can get the fan to work properly.
1. You need an EGR valve plugged in. If not it will effect fan clutch operation. Hopefully whoever installed the EGR delete kit, they didn't hack off the plug from the harness. You may need to peel back the loom and look for the wires if it was.
2. Inspect the fan clutch harness and plug. Inspect it by the shroud and make sure none of the wires are chafed through.
3. If I remember right, if you ground out the blue wire at the fan clutch plug it should actuate the clutch and lock up 100%. Let me try to confirm that first before you try it.
here's a link. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hich-wire.html
4. You reported initially of the issues and squeals so I wouldn't be surprised if the clutch is bad but I'd also repair the EGR circuit first.
2. Inspect the fan clutch harness and plug. Inspect it by the shroud and make sure none of the wires are chafed through.
3. If I remember right, if you ground out the blue wire at the fan clutch plug it should actuate the clutch and lock up 100%. Let me try to confirm that first before you try it.
here's a link. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...hich-wire.html
4. You reported initially of the issues and squeals so I wouldn't be surprised if the clutch is bad but I'd also repair the EGR circuit first.












