Buy locally. Then open the box and inspect before you leave the store. And if it has a problem your close to store for easy returns. I like Napa parts - although they are going more to offshore suppliers these days so there's not as much difference anymore.


IMO, Autozone and Discount Auto Parts are the worse.

 

I go local for thongs like that.
Most of the time I need it ASAP on a master and most of the time it is next day.
Dave - - - -

 

Anybody want this great setup, before he edits what we can only HOPE was a typo? Don't want to be accused of hogging all the good ones.

 

I did see that aftet I posted and said the he11 with it because I have been up s I nce 2am for work, already drove 290 miles to drop my load (takes over an hour in this heat) then if no more loads 100 miles back to the yard to park the truck.
Oh and the customer is not here! And it is hot!
All this posting on my phone
Dave - - -

 

Probably not very comfortable wearing a thong in the heat, either. My sympathies.

 

But it matches the orange safety vest I have to ware
Dave ----


ps: been home a bit and took a quick nap much better now

 

Just getting in myself for the day! You guys are great for a laugh!


I will definitely see what NAPA has to offer.


Thanks,
Cody

 

Napa has both in store.


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMBP2405


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM2405


The first one is remand and the other is new. Which one should I get?


Thanks,
Cody

 

Did I read that right?
The reman is $35 and the new is $28?
New for $28 Alex! (Jeopardy!.)


I am cheap so I would have gone for the reman if it was cheaper, but that's me others don't like reman.
Dave ----

 

Lol!

I have no problem with reman products. I did not know if there were any benefits of buying that one over the new one. New it is!


Happy 4th


Thanks,
Cody

 

What can happen with reman is the bores get rusty & pitted over the years being used and all they do is hone the boar.
If they hone the bore many times or a lot to get the pits out the bore is now too big to seal with seals they use for the rebuild.
You now get the part and after a little bit it starts to fail, you take it back for another and it happens again.......
So that is why some go new over reman.


What should be done is the bores measured and if not in spec to install a sleeve but that adds $$ to the rebuild so you have to raise the price to the customer.
Dave ----

 

Posting from phones sucks, I don't know how you guys do it (I won't use that thing for FTE).

Post some pics of you wading around in the sunshine wearing your thong, Dave, I'm sure they'd generate some conversation.

 

When out on the road and you are waiting to load or off loading that takes over an hour and you just have to sit & watch gauges you get on your phone.


Not easy and why some of us have thong come up in the post


As for a picture I am not into selfies and no one here wants to see me in a thong let alone take a picture of it
Dave ----

 

Well guys, after much delay, I am finally going to spend some time and get the replacement master cylinder installed. But no good project fails without stirring up another problem.


After jacking up the front of the truck I noticed the wheels were extremely hard to spin. I could maybe get 1/2 a turn out of each before they stopped. That was placing a lot of force behind the spin. I took the tires off and used a clamp to compress the calipers on each side. The wheel rotors spin pretty as you please. I cranked the truck up and reapplied the brakes a few times. I could hardly move each rotor with my hand the second time.


I hope you guys will tell me this is because of the leaking master cylinder.


I just recently replaced the calipers and both hoses early this year when I replaced the master cylinder the first time.


When I first changed these parts from what I remember, after driving the truck I could spin each tire about 2 turns with not a hole lot of effort.


Please let me know what you guys think. Bleeding brakes is not the greatest job in the world, and I hate doing things multiple times. LOL


Thanks,
Cody

 

Well if I under stand you right you are going to replace the master so I would not do anything other than bench bleed the new master and install it.
If bench bleed is done right you should not need to bleed the brakes unless you have air in the system before replacing the master.


Now after the master swap and a road test do the wheel spin test and if you get the same results, short/no spin then loosen the master from the booster or fire wall if no power brakes and do the spin test again and let us know what you come up with.
Dave ----