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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

update on new heads.

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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 05:24 PM
  #16  
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They have it for A/C and cooling systems too. The yellow glasses make it even easier to see in UV light.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 07:38 PM
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I got rid of my black lights when moved out of the fraternity house!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2017 | 07:57 PM
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Ok I know I said I wouldn't work on the truck today and give you guys a break from my jibber jabber, but I just couldn't help myself. I pulled the distributor, removed the flat seal at the base, replaced the O ring seal cleaned all oil residue and reinstalled. Then went for another test run never breaking 2k, and checked for leaks. What I found is its leaking right behind the distributor between it and the block. There is no space to see weather its from the distributor or the intake seam. I ordered the florescent dye kit with the black lite and glasses, figuring I could mix the dye with the oil run it, pull the distributor and then check if the dye made it past the O ring seal. My thinking LOL is that if the dye is only below the O ring it must be coming from the intake manifold and reinstall that. Working alone in the cold I may have (almost surly) moved the intake while trying to set it and scraped away the sealant on the front seam behind the distributor. Now aren't all you guys with real problems to solve, so happy that I made you read this earth shattering learning experience of mine. Don't worry Ill keep you all entertained with my progress, as it unfolds so nobody gets bored with all the real beautiful, impressive , builds going on that require some real skill and talent. I hope your all enjoying working on your trucks as much as I am.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 06:48 AM
  #19  
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Hey, Jim, if it turns out to be the intake seal and you decide to fix it, you might consider using alignment dowels when you put it back on again to help make sure it doesn't squirm on you. I've got 4 extra 5/16" bolts that I modified just for this purpose. I cut the heads off of them and then cut a shallow slot in the top with a hacksaw so I can back them out with a screwdriver after the intake is set. They're a big help with making sure it goes straight down when trying to set an intake in the vehicle.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueOvalRage
Hey, Jim, if it turns out to be the intake seal and you decide to fix it, you might consider using alignment dowels when you put it back on again to help make sure it doesn't squirm on you. I've got 4 extra 5/16" bolts that I modified just for this purpose. I cut the heads off of them and then cut a shallow slot in the top with a hacksaw so I can back them out with a screwdriver after the intake is set. They're a big help with making sure it goes straight down when trying to set an intake in the vehicle.
That's a great tip, one that I will definitely use, thank you for passing it on .
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 03:30 PM
  #21  
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Jimmy you can also pull the distributor and spray the area with carb cleaner to remove any oil, while still wet from the carb cleaner blow it dry with compressed air. Give it time to dry and then you can apply silicone sealer with your finger forcing into the gap between the intake and block, leave a little build up, let it cure fully, re-assemble and test drive. This may stop or slow down your oil leak helping pin point its source.

If you decide to re-seal the whole intake I have some good ideas for you prior to re-installing it.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
Jimmy you can also pull the distributor and spray the area with carb cleaner to remove any oil, while still wet from the carb cleaner blow it dry with compressed air. Give it time to dry and then you can apply silicone sealer with your finger forcing into the gap between the intake and block, leave a little build up, let it cure fully, re-assemble and test drive. This may stop or slow down your oil leak helping pin point its source.

If you decide to re-seal the whole intake I have some good ideas for you prior to re-installing it.
Thanks Dave, I used up the last of my Berrymans yesterday, doing exactly that with the exception of forcing sealer in the seam, I had not thought of that, but will give it a shot when my dye kit comes in. As always I very much appreciate every tip I can get.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
Jimmy you can also pull the distributor and spray the area with carb cleaner to remove any oil, while still wet from the carb cleaner blow it dry with compressed air. Give it time to dry and then you can apply silicone sealer with your finger forcing into the gap between the intake and block, leave a little build up, let it cure fully, re-assemble and test drive. This may stop or slow down your oil leak helping pin point its source.

If you decide to re-seal the whole intake I have some good ideas for you prior to re-installing it.
Maybe I don't understand but are you suggesting using silicone sealer on the distributor shaft? Won't that cause difficulty in changing the timing?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 06:52 PM
  #24  
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I believe he's saying to jam RTV under the edge of the intake. Seems like a worthwhile effort.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2017 | 10:49 PM
  #25  
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That is correct Ross, along the seam/gap between the intake and block. I will bet a weeks pay that the front gasket area for the intake is the leak source. I have never seen the the distributor be an oil leak source on a SBF unless the o-ring was gone.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 06:10 PM
  #26  
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Hi all, with the help of a muti purpose dye that works with synthetic motor oil I was able to find the source of the oil seepage. It was in the seam between the intake manifold and the block. As seen in the first pic. It was very hard to see hidden behind the distributor (which is removed in the pic.). So armed with all the good tips I have received in this thread my next move is obvious, I must remove and reinstall the intake manifold taking precautions to prevent a re-occurrence of another leak. The bad part I was speaking of was driving in house shoes and ran the truck right int the work bench and of course where the arm of differential stand was at. that would be the second and third pics. This has been a very helpful thread, and I'm sure it will help other novice builders like myself in the future. Ill let you all know the outcome after repairs, but until then, thank you all for your help.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 06:27 PM
  #27  
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Glad you found the leak but what a bummer on the hood of problem. Hopefully it won't be too hard or costly to fix
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 03:55 AM
  #28  
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Jimmy, I am glad I don't have to give up that weeks pay and that you found your leak. Sorry about your hood but then again you painted it so you can fix it better.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 06:58 AM
  #29  
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Good job on locating the oil leak, the body damage was unfortunate but at least the chrome was spared, plus now you have a good story to tell.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 12:52 PM
  #30  
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We have to watch these garage accidents. I had to replace my cab because of mine. It was in the wrong place at the wrong time.
 
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