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Cleaning the frame and underside.......best methods?

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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 03:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by stufarmer
I've never lived near or experienced a corrosive environment. When I lived in N.Calif the Hwy Department (Cal-Trans) used Sand where necessary. All we did was spray off the undercarriage and all was well.

I can't even imagine. Buying vehicles around here is just a waste of money. Even the most rustproofed vehicles start showing rust eventually. That's why I've tried to keep my truck in the garage for the winters the past few years. Slow the process. If it wasn't for family I'd be outta here....
 
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 08:15 PM
  #17  
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I used this ZEP 5 Gal. Industrial Purple Degreasers ZU08565G at The Home Depot - Mobile and my power washer. If I hit the spot afterwards with the power washer, it was cleaned up.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 09:30 PM
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I love zep products! I use the window cleaner religiously
 
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Old Feb 10, 2017 | 09:49 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
I love zep products! I use the window cleaner religiously
I've never tried the glass cleaner. Do you still have a DR-Z?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 01:22 PM
  #20  
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I drove through sandy beaches, silt beds, mud , Mohave desert and lots of rain this year in Cali on my 2017 f350 I tried The frame only rear passenger wheel side for a test. It looked to have this black brownish film on it till I sprayed some purple degreaser not sure on the brand, and spray washed it then air dried it on the road for a couple min. looks like new for now I’ll wait a few days to see if the degreaser doesn’t react to the degreaser. My concern is that it may have adverse effects on the e coating , does anyone have a tried and true solution?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 03:43 PM
  #21  
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FWIW I recently (December 17) sold my '99 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually. Usually they had holes through quarter panels, cab corners, and wheel lips by '06. A lot of salt is used here. Mine left with no rust issues and had 118k miles on it. I had a lot of questions from people wanting to know if I had rust cut out and panels replaced. No, the truck and paint was still nice. The only thing I can say is I did not regularly wash it. If the body did get nasty dirty I would take it to the carwash and clean it up. I also would drive it out of town and get it to 70 mph for a few miles. No rust issues. I never hand waxed it from the time I drove off showroom floor until I sold it. My ex wife's parents had a 90's Monte Carlo that got washed if it got dusty and they kept it garaged all its life. It rusted so bad it looked like a 50 year old car in about 5 years.

I am not washing the current '15 F350 either. I just believe that you do not get it dry between washings and water trapped in body seams and pockets spaces never get to dry between washings and that is the main reason for rust. It may not work for you but it did for the K3500 I sold and for that reason I got top dollar when it sold.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 04:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Fefanatic
My ex wife's parents had a 90's Monte Carlo that got washed if it got dusty and they kept it garaged all its life. It rusted so bad it looked like a 50 year old car in about 5 years.
Once a car is out in the salt, best to leave it outside for the winter. The warmer garage wakes up the salt and it goes to work eating everything every night. The car is going to be better off freezing overnight every night.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 06:46 AM
  #23  
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I used P21S Auto Wash - https://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M...000-ml-Kit-S1/ Lower the spare tire, spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes then I just hit it with your standard garden hose.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 10:23 AM
  #24  
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Those cinder blocks under a 7,500 lb vehicle make me wince with pain. Even with the newly enacted import tariffs, a set of four jack stands from China is still a small price to pay for piece of mind.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 10:45 AM
  #25  
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I agree. definitely get the truck off those concrete blocks. Wouldn’t want too anyone get hurt. Quality jack stands are a worth while investment.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 08:55 AM
  #26  
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Ouch! Solid wood is better than cinder blocks. Be careful!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 08:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FordBlueHeart
I've never tried the glass cleaner. Do you still have a DR-Z?
yes I have her still, she got some new bling this winter actually
 
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 09:24 AM
  #28  
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I live on the left coast and don't know anything about fluid film but when degreasing etc my motor and underside of my vehicles I buy several bottles of the BBQ grill & Oven Cleaner from the 99 Cent store, Dollar Tree etc. It comes in a Black spray bottle, it's cheep and works great on grease & grime but I honestly don't know how well it would work on Fluid Film but at a dollar a bottle it might be worth a try for you. Just a thought.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 11:04 AM
  #29  
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Oven etc. cleaner may not be compatible with the various plastic and rubber parts under the truck!
Electric wire insulators are a good example.

If you must, I would buy spay on engine degreaser and follow instructions.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 12:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by HearseDriver
I live on the left coast and don't know anything about fluid film but when degreasing etc my motor and underside of my vehicles I buy several bottles of the BBQ grill & Oven Cleaner from the 99 Cent store, Dollar Tree etc. It comes in a Black spray bottle, it's cheep and works great on grease & grime but I honestly don't know how well it would work on Fluid Film but at a dollar a bottle it might be worth a try for you. Just a thought.
Isn't most oven cleaners made up of lye? I wouldn't think very good for plastics, electronics, and sensors (also seals)
 
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