1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56 F 100 basket case build

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  #61  
Old 12-04-2017, 09:46 PM
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Greg this is superb, great job! I really like the wheels you have on your truck!

Wiring is coming up for my build soon, so you have inspired me!
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
Well, I can't get a hold of the fellow member with the new wiring harness, maybe he decided not to sell it. Anyway, I went ahead and installed the used harness I removed from the 56 wrecker. It actually is in better shape than you would think for being in the woods for 50 years. I think being out of the sun helped as the insulation is still pretty flexible. But the connections are pretty bad. I found a really small wire brush that goes in the cordless drill, it fits in the female bullet connectors. I cleaned the male connectors on the wire wheel. I've got the headlight and ignition switches mounted in the dash, now moving on to the wipers. The old 56 wiper motor does work so I wired it up and I have wipers. I also can crank the engine using the key, So making progress! I installed the heater motor and switch/cable. I still need to run a power wire to the heater switch. I plan to use the rear wiring harness I took out of the 85 F150 donor truck to run tail lights. I may also use the front harness out of the 85 for across/ behind the grill. My 56 wiring stops at the left front fender. I also think I can use the big yellow wire from the 56 harness that went to the voltage regulator for my one wire alternator. Funny how this whole harness has no fuses except for the one on the back of the headlight switch for the dome light. I wonder how many of these trucks burnt due to electrical fires? I may add some fuses later, right now all I am trying to do is see what works,etc.
There were/are circuit breakers attached onto the instrument panel. Also the accessories like the heater blower, radio, the four way flashers (which were after market) etc, have inline fuses.
 
  #63  
Old 12-05-2017, 08:28 AM
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Abe, There were a lot of inline fuses that went to the added lights (spotlight, gumballs, trailer brakes,etc - after all it was a wrecker) but I don't see any inline fuses in the factory wiring. I do see some what may be circuit breakers in the wiring harness/dash cluster that I took out of a 54 grain truck in the boneyard, but so far I haven't seen any on the 56 harness. It has really been a learning experience what with the change in voltage between 55 and 56! I have accumulated a bunch of extras off of that 54 right after I got my truck because at that point I thought it was all the same.
 
  #64  
Old 12-05-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by GJPilcher
Greg this is superb, great job! I really like the wheels you have on your truck!

Wiring is coming up for my build soon, so you have inspired me!
Thanks, Gary. I have been watching you also- great job you are doing. I also love the cannot delete thread! It's run amok!! Funny you mention the wheels on mine. The wagon wheels came on the truck with the wide RWL tires but they are junk -weather-checked bad. I actually have some 16" innies I plan to use in the future but I think after I get it driving I will use the 15" wheels and tires that came off my engine donor truck. I think I will paint them red with chrome lug nuts to be the only shiny thins on the truck!
 
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:53 PM
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Going to have to remove cab. What's a good way?

I bought patch panels for my truck. As much as I hate to I am going to have to take the cab off the frame. I know I have seen how some of you guys have done this on your threads but I can't find them. Can you show me how you did it and maybe post a pic ? Thanks, Greg.
 
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  #66  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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As I mentioned in the other post, I used a cab lifting rig that bolts to my engine hoist. It gave me great control as a one man operation. With the only hinge point being where it is connected to the hoist, it can only swing on one axis. There is soft rubber padding where it cradles the top of the cab so I could use it once the cab was painted.

I also built a cab dolly to make it easy to move it around once it was off the truck. The 2x4 "A" slides up into the rear cab mount pockets. The floor pan sits on the 2-2x6s right at the front cab mounts.

Pictures:
 
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  #67  
Old 12-18-2017, 06:43 AM
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Thanks, Ken. Your truck is looking great!!
 
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:07 AM
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Starting on floor repair

I got the cab off. Wasn't pretty but it's off now. I bought a rear floor, left front floor and left rocker patch panels, but now see I am going to need more. Probably will need the right rocker, and both sides inner and outer cab corners. But looking at the cab corners that I have found there is no provision for the 55 gas tank filler. So I may not get the inner/outer cab corner for the left rear. I also have a right front repair piece that I was given by a friend that I may use a small lower piece out of. This is all new to my as I have never done body work to speak of. Any suggestions/ advice will be greatly appreciated. Should I even mention the dreaded MAW's?? I ranted earlier in the thread about how I would not follow that path. I can see how even a beater build can get into the thousands. Well we all have hobbies, right?
 
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  #69  
Old 01-07-2018, 07:11 AM
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More pics....
 
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  #70  
Old 01-07-2018, 07:25 AM
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You see the "soup bowl" type depression in the floor for the dimmer switch? It needs to be repaired, but I am thinking I would make a flat repair patch and mount a 60's style dimmer switch on the flat. I bought a switch and wiring pigtail at a swap meet yesterday. I think it would work as the clearance for the electrical connections won't be needed. What you think?? Thanks Greg. OOPs accidentally attached pic of my buddy Jack. He doesn't help me in the garage much anymore. Too cold for his old bones...
 
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  #71  
Old 01-07-2018, 09:06 AM
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Greg,
Looks like someone needs some of your attention too!
Hey the truck is coming along nicely. You have really done a lot since retirement. WARNING: It can get worse too! I have been retired for 4 years and have restored 4 tractors of various sizes and repaired/ worked on a TD6 loader.
Also remodeled the kitchen and living room.
MAW's can be a bugger on any old project. Must draw the line or open the wallet!
Makes me want to run out and buy the 56 F800 tucked away in a friends barn. I just do not have the shop to do it right now! Huge project requiring many hours, just like you are doing! Love the 56's! Keep up the good work!
Regards,
Chris
 
  #72  
Old 01-07-2018, 10:57 AM
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One thing does lead to another, and all these "things" end up costing money. But hey, you're retired, and your time and money are going to be spent on something. Why not an old truck? I've been enjoying the progress you are making. Get that truck on the road and take it to a Truckstock event. It will be an adventure you will never forget. Abe is busy planning something special In PA for September.

Jim
 
  #73  
Old 01-08-2018, 07:05 PM
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Thanks guys!
 
  #74  
Old 02-08-2018, 06:25 AM
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I've been plugging right along, slow but sure. The "bowl" for the dimmer switch was all rusted out so I cut it out and made a flat piece that I am going to lap weld in. Later I will install a newer style dimmer switch on the flat floor like the 60-70's cars were. I am replacing the whole rear floor and the drivers side front floor but keeping the original passenger side front floor, but after looking at it I found the right front metal that is sandwiched between the mount that goes up on the kick panel and the lower mount was rusted out. I wished I had ordered the passenger floor but I made a patch that I plan to butt weld in there. I was pleased with how it came out. But it's not in yet. I plan to fit as much as I can together and then tack, and not completely weld until all together.
 
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  #75  
Old 02-08-2018, 06:47 AM
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I removed all of the rusty metal in small pieces and using straight lines as much as possible. I did it like that so I can "jigsaw puzzle" back together the parts in case I forget how it goes back together. I have been slacking on updating this thread and posting pics ( cuz its a hassle to remember to take pics and hunt and pecking on this computer- as you guys know), but I look on this site every night to see how you guys are doing things. So maybe someone will find the way I do it helpful so I am going to try harder to post my progress, ( or failure...) It's only fair that I contribute.. Anyway, I have both sides braced through the door frames so I removed the right floor panel and rocker. I plan to use the inner and outer corner on the right rear but only the outer on the left rear. I am going to repair the fuel filler hole with pieces. The left inner corner that's available is for a 56 and most of it won't work. Also most of the outer corner also won't work but I plan to use as little of it as possible as I plan to do with all the patch panels.
 
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