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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I say go with a different brand plug say Champion and see what happens. At worst you put the set you pulled out on the shelf till the next plug change.
Dave ----
+1 on this idea. I had the same thought, including trying a different brand.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by whisler
Kr98664: your GB meter reading is 1 volt higher than mine, but mine was done at idle (~800 rpm), don't know if that should affect anything. Would you mind checking voltage at the coil (+) key on, engine off with that GB meter?
Yep, I can get that reading. Had to rush last night, was in the middle of a monsoon. (Note the rain on the face of the meter)

Just curious, do you have a troubleshooting guide saying to take the measurement with the key on but engine off? I'm not following how that value would mean much of anything. I'd think the voltage with the engine running would be more important.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 01:30 PM
  #63  
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Jim: Coil (+) voltage KOEO = 6.77. Coil (-) voltage = 1.70 Coil (+) to Coil (-) = 5.0v.

Kr: (OK if I call you by your first initials) I was checking KOEO based on what I saw on the forum. When it comes to electrical troubleshooting I am as dumb as a box of rocks.

All: I think I will pick up a set of Motorcraft copper plugs and a new set of wires also. Any recommendations on good quality wires?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 02:27 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by whisler
Jim: Coil (+) voltage KOEO = 6.77. Coil (-) voltage = 1.70 Coil (+) to Coil (-) = 5.0v.
This look fine or close to spec.

I would just swap out the plugs and save the wires for the next round.

Jim
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 03:07 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
I would just swap out the plugs and save the wires for the next round.

Jim
Yes what he said.
I know it is easy to do both as you are in there but when tracking down issues it is best to do 1/one change at a time. That is 101 of testing
This way if something works or does not work or gets worst you know just what you did to make that change.


If you do both plugs & wires and say it gets worst what one caused the "worst"? If you did just plugs and it got worst you can throw the old plugs back in, test to see if you are back to what it was before the plug change then do the wires and test again.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 03:10 PM
  #66  
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When you pull the plugs for swapping tell us or better yet take a picture of the ends to see if running lean, rich or just right.


I know it has been said you should not be lean with the PV and all but.........
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 03:44 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
When you pull the plugs for swapping tell us or better yet take a picture of the ends to see if running lean, rich or just right.
Even better, duplicate the rough running and shut down the engine right away. Don't even bring it back to idle, if possible. That way the plugs will hopefully give a hint about why the engine was misbehaving.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2017 | 03:52 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Even better, duplicate the rough running and shut down the engine right away. Don't even bring it back to idle, if possible. That way the plugs will hopefully give a hint about why the engine was misbehaving.
Yes that is how it should be done but not always able to do it like that so the less running/idling the better.


You are trying to get a look at the plugs when the issue happens.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 10:18 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by whisler
Would you mind checking voltage at the coil (+) key on, engine off with that GB meter?
Your wish is my command.

My GB meter says 6.3 VDC

Just for giggles, my Fluke says 6.44 VDC.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2017 | 11:01 PM
  #70  
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Thank you, sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar. My reading is 6.75 so the problem must not be voltage at the coil.

I have ordered a new set of wires from Rockauto (mine were older than I thought) and picked up a set of Motorcraft plugs so we will see where that goes.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 01:23 AM
  #71  
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A cute way of checking for bad/cheap wires used to be to run it in the dark and see what it looks like under the hood. I've seen wires looking like a Pink Floyd laser light show...
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:20 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Cienega32
A cute way of checking for bad/cheap wires used to be to run it in the dark and see what it looks like under the hood. I've seen wires looking like a Pink Floyd laser light show...
and use a spray bottle with water to mist the wires when doing the above test.


Also if you find you are burning out coils, spark going from center to small neg stud that is a sign of high resistance on the high voltage side and the spark looking for the easy path to ground. Most of the time the cause is the wires but do not over look cap/rotor & plugs.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #73  
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I'll be trying that test tonight.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 08:19 PM
  #74  
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Ran the truck tonight in the dark. No light show, with or without mist. No closer to an answer I guess.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by whisler
Ran the truck tonight in the dark. No light show, with or without mist. No closer to an answer I guess.
I'm pretty sure your timing chain has slipped. Well, that was the fix in another perplexing thread. I don't want to get skunked again, so that's my new go-to answer. Eventually I'll be right again...

All seriousness aside, did you try duplicating the rough running while spraying down the plug wires? Just because you didn't get the light show, that doesn't mean the wires are confirmed good. It only means they didn't fail a particular test.

Also, does your coil have the stock radio noise suppression filter? This is a small capacitor on the side of the coil. The lead is connected to the coil's (+) post. If shorted, it could cause ignition problems. It's okay to disconnect it, as it's only there to limit AM radio interference.
 
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