If I understand what you are saying (although it is hard with all that text and no punctuation), your wiring diagram is on my web site. I'd suggest using the 1981 EVTM as the '86 version has the 2G shown. And probably the Charge and Power Distribution page is the one that you want.

And here is a diagram of how the 3G can be wired.

 

Wires 35, 36 & 38 dissappear.along with the regulator and noise suppressor.
Wire 904 connects to the 'I' lead of the 3G regulator plug.
The new charge cable connects to the starter relay, along with the battery + cable.
Yellow wire 37 should be connected directly to fuselink J the hot terminal of the starter solenoid.

Edit above^^^
there is no reason for a fusible link to protect two fusible links downstream.

 

Jim - Would a 1G to 3G diagram help? Maybe a before and after shot? Can't do it now, but maybe later and put it on my web site.

 

RJM used to have a diagram.
But it showed the power cable connecting to the battery, and everybody was over thinking.

If you intend to draw one up I'd like to see it.

I want to see what you end up doing wiith your ammeter because we know both the wiring and the instrument can't handle a 3G's output.

 

Gary,

Your little picture above shows a 95A 3G with a 100A fuse.
With a 130A 3G the fuse should be at least 150 (mine is 175)
​​​​

 

I vote yes
I would say when at it if you can come up with a 2G to 3G B/A also so all in 1 place.


I have been saving links for the day I do a 1G to 3G swap.
Thing is IIRC you just warp the old wires and leave in place. I plan on removing them from the harness and splicing in the new wires so it looks factory stock.
Dave ----

 

This is the first I have heard of the mega fuse size to ALT output.
And to tell the truth I never gave it mush thought on size other than think all I found was 100A fuses when I was looking to see where to buy them at.


Maybe also list the ALT out put to fuse size needed.
Dave ----

 

The fuse is to protect the wiring.
My truck has 2 ga cable from the alternator and a '0' battery cable.
The battery acts as a sink (or buffer)
The alternator output ratings are continuous and Ryan had photos on his site of a 130A putting out over 160 before it started to melt the board inside.

Anyway, I think the fuse should be rated for cable size, not alternator output.

Dave, if you really want 'factory stock' PA Performance makes a fake regulator for their conversion harness, so you will not have to miss that rusty little box bolted to your inner fender.

 

I'm not sure of your experience level and comfort with electrical stuff, but you may find the 3G conversion to be a bit of a handful. Who knows if the new alternator will have the correct pulley or if your existing pulley will swap over. The wiring changes aren't too bad but if you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest approaching very cautiously.

I'm still willing to gamble your existing 1G setup is adequate if in good shape, but there's something holding it back, such as a wiring issue or the slipping pulley. I still have the 1G on my '84, and it performs okay with a very heavy load. During the summer, my truck hauls a camper with a 3-way fridge that draws around 12 amps. Throw in 14 extra exterior lamps on the camper, an electric fuel pump, heavy AC use (both the fan and compressor clutch), and my cheap stereo blasting The BeeGees (Yes, I'm man enough to declare I've always been a fan and no, they were NOT responsible for disco), and well, you get the idea. My lowly 1G alternator gets a workout yet hasn't let me down yet.

If you've absolutely, positively got your little heart dead set on a 3G conversion, stop reading now and skip to the next message. But even if you will be doing the conversion, it will be well worth your time to run the quick electrical tests I suggested in posts 4 and 12. If nothing else, it will give you a good pre-conversion baseline.

Specifically, I'd still like to know:

1) What size fuse on your stereo system?

2) Does the fuse ever blow?

3) Does the electrical system still misbehave if the stereo system is unpowered?

 

I don't mind losing the box on the fender well. When I said factory stock I meant wiring wise and not have the REG wiring rolled up sitting on the side looking like cra*.


On the wire size & fuse thing I will take note. I thought I saw 6ga wire from ALT to batt in a post? I also know bigger is better so if 2ga then that is what I will get.
Dave ----

 

2ga is overkill, but that is the kit Ryan was selling at the time.
I personally think 6 is OK for the 95A found in later trucks but iffy for the large 3G.
I doubt anyone would come close to taxing it without a winch or welder.
(winch applications are what the 2ga kit was sized for)

 

How I handle the ammeter is still in question. But your input, when the time comes, will be appreciated. As for the diagram, I'm going to be busy for the next couple of weeks, but maybe when things settle back down.....

Yes, a 2G diagram would be a good addition. Good idea.

 

If I'm having the power issue the head unit will kick off n on, I've also forgot to mention I'm running a msd 6al and blaster 2 coil . What spurred this post is a tune done by a local performance shop on the carb (Holley 4160) but I've had similar issues in the past but that would right out kill the truck and the battery! I haven't had a starting issue besides the belt squeal, and I've went through and pulled the loom out and checked all the wiring that's why I think this conversion may do the trick. It also hasn't died on me yet......