I know a lot of you will be surprised I am asking this question. Many of you have made nice comments about my painting abilities. Actually I am just a good color sander and buffer. I am not very knowledgabe on modern painting systems.

Anyway................ I picked up new steel fenders at PF and need to get them painted when good painting temps arrive very soon. I dropped by the paint store to pick up some more paint. Well they don't carry that paint line anymore. Because it doesn't even exist. It was a BASF product on the lines of a fleet acrylic enamel. Basically IH red paint that I could afford. There are a bunch of shades of paint called IH Red. It's a tractor, who cares if the match is perfect. I guess I got two questions. What are your recommendations for a paint brand? And what is the best way to get a good color match when switching brands? Why am I thinking this ends with another coat of paint on the entire truck?

 

The folk who color match with a form of light meter can match anything... if they have the right chemistry to make the color. Universal tints will get me close 7 times out of ten. Behr pigments are pretty pure... they color match well enough for us art folk. Painting your truck is another matter. The trick is pigment and how it acts (reflects/refracts) with the vehicle... enamel, lacquer, acrylic, whatever. Many reds suffer a reaction to UV light. Your new red paint next to the old... from the same can can have a slight color shift if enough time passes between applications. I'm not saying that you cannot match the color. Reds are rather forgiving ... wait... let me restate.... a red truck like yours, with newly painted fenders with a close color match will be less detectable than other hues....like blues and purples and certainly yellows. Invest in a quart of enamel mixed as close as your best vendor can do and try it. Just have that same vendor remember his recipe. Good luck. himmelberg

 

When all else fails get some Western Brand Safety Red. Industrial/Fleet product put out by PPG. Mighty reasonable acrylic enamel. I use it regularly on trailers, holds up very well in UV.

 

It'll be interesting to see how this plays out.....

Here in Ontario there is a law that says you can't wash, wax or compound polish RED vehicles. They must be allowed to fade and go totally chalky (at which point, they all take on the same colour).

Hey Nathan! Is it the same in Saskatchewan?






(And I thought Farmall Red was easy to find.....)

Later,

Bone tired, but never to tired for a shot at 'fenders.....

 

Peter

Thanks, I had forgotten we had a resident artee'st amongst us. I hope I can find somebody good at this. My truck hasn't seen much UV, but I don't have a good recipe to offer the mixer either. So it might as well be faded.

Carl,

You're sellin me out early man. Don't start talking about a color switch already. You got a clue how much color sand time I got in this thing to remove all the peel and make it look like base/clear.
(I know you do)

RMF

Thanks for your support man. BTW, there were at least three distinct shades used by Farmall, IH, Case-IH over the last century. I had a Ford ttruck color custom tinted to match the middle IH color. You know, the one that ain't too orangey, and not that darkish red one either.

I'm so hosed.

Hey wait, does Dick have any more of those cheezy Elvis blacklight posters?

 

You mean you painted your Ford truck IH red and not Ford red??

Seems like Ford 8N red would be just the right touch, not?

I was going to suggest you take a hint from our neighbors to the north and paint the fenders BLACK like the merc pickups, but then I checked your gallery and saw you have one of those newer models. So........

In keeping with the fine traditions established here, you'll just have to get rid of the truck you have and buy a older 'new' truck so you can paint the fenders black. Make sense???

 

I can do Cheezy in any flavor you like!

Can you say; Rattle can Flat Black?

 

Now Fergy are you being serious or just mocking 'Fenders. It's to hard to tell anymore. Well I haven't hear of any law but our '65 Mercury M-350 hasen't seen a wax in a long time but it would remove the oxidization. It would be a nice shiny flat red.

 

I had a friend with a red 55 f100 put a cantalope-sized dent in his front fender. It was ten-year-old dark red, but still in great shape. He found a local paint shop that matched it perfectly. They fixed the dent and repainted the fender perfectly for $350. If they can do it here in CA, they can surely do it in other states that have not forced out all the good painters! Good luck, John

 

John

I am sure a paint shop could match it but I am too cheap for that. There aren't too many paint supply stores left here that mix anymore. And even fewer that sell Acrylic Enamel.

 

'fenders,

You could still go to a body/paint shop to have them mix (and colour match) the paint for you. Take it home and spray it yourself.

One of my first jobs out of high school (yes i have more than Gr 8) was as an aprentice auto painter. Even after just 6 mths, I was matching paint to anything that came in the door....

Later,

 

RMF

I'm sure I can find somebody to mix paint. Just wish I didn't have to change brands in the middle of the project. Red starts to fade before it even dries. It may not match again down the road. It's my fault. I priced Base/Clear out at about $700 with the fixins. I'm just not that good. You know I would have screwed it up if I'd spent big bucks on paint. Maybe it's time for the honkin' yellow flame job. Did Farmall ever use flames or scallops? Don't recall Dad ever talking about that.

 

What? An Iowegian that doesn't frequent the tractor pulls? I'm surprised that you haven't been deported!

Just kiddin'... Anyway when the 'big' paint manufacturers prices went through the roof, others stepped in with targeted less expensive products, such as 'Transtar's clears, etc. This forced the 'big' companies to come out with cost competitive lines. PPG's is called 'Omni', Dupont resurrected the 'Nason' name for theirs. They are urethanes and cheaper than acrylic enamel. Solid colors (like red) historically chalked horribly, because they were not clear coated (until the last 15 years or so). You can protect a 'cheaper' paint with a quality clear (even Transtar's), so it won't chalk so bad. The trick is to find compatible combo's of paint and clear. Of course all the vendors will tell you never to mix and match, and that's a guaranteed way to avoid problems. But look in most body shops and you will find that they have learned what they can get away with to cut costs.

Or you can join the dark side:
Blitz Black Enamel $9.20 a quart at your local JD dealer and they have a standard JD thinner that they recomend for all their paints. Cheaper than
Krylon. Speaking of Krylon, there's your flames.
Adios,
Brett

 

"Blitz Black Enamel $9.20 a quart at your local JD dealer and they have a standard JD thinner"

Now we're talking. But I have to put the JD paint on the frame and such. Not allowed on the topside. Around these parts, the two brands must be separated or there will probably be trouble. The red ones put the food on our table as my father painted Farmalls for almost 30 years. You've probably seen some of his work. He always told me you could tell which ones he did because his didn't have any runs in the hood.

 

You could try some Massey Harris red? Or Minneolplos Moline Yellow?