91 f250 won't start or pull codes
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,080
Likes: 5
From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
91 f250 won't start or pull codes
OK guys my brother's 91 f250 is giving us fits and driving us nuts. We just finished rebuilding the engine and are trying to get it to start.
You crank it over and it cranks slow with a jump or not and it is a brand new battery. Once in a while it cranks a bit faster but still won't start. Checked fuel pressure and it is within spec (better be since it has Rand new fuel pumps). Checked fuel injectors with mood light and working good. Checked spark and it was a bit erratic so I put a coil I know is good as it came off my 88 f150.
Went to pull codes and nothing. It makes the clicking sound of the relays but no codes come up. I mean nothing at all not even a blinking light. Put a brand new computer same issue still.
Inside no battery gauge does have a battery light though, no cel, no rear anti lock.
Going to try my good old cluster with no tach from my 88 but doubt that will fix the issue at hand.
Seems to me like the timing is out but I did check it again and dead on tdc. It wants to start once in a while but won't.
Truck is a 91 f250 460 e4od 4x4 that got rebuilt completely stock minus F3te heads.
Any help is appreciated
Trav
You crank it over and it cranks slow with a jump or not and it is a brand new battery. Once in a while it cranks a bit faster but still won't start. Checked fuel pressure and it is within spec (better be since it has Rand new fuel pumps). Checked fuel injectors with mood light and working good. Checked spark and it was a bit erratic so I put a coil I know is good as it came off my 88 f150.
Went to pull codes and nothing. It makes the clicking sound of the relays but no codes come up. I mean nothing at all not even a blinking light. Put a brand new computer same issue still.
Inside no battery gauge does have a battery light though, no cel, no rear anti lock.
Going to try my good old cluster with no tach from my 88 but doubt that will fix the issue at hand.
Seems to me like the timing is out but I did check it again and dead on tdc. It wants to start once in a while but won't.
Truck is a 91 f250 460 e4od 4x4 that got rebuilt completely stock minus F3te heads.
Any help is appreciated
Trav
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
How did you initially set the timing? How did you check the timing? Did you check the valve clearance?
I hope it doesn't sound like i'm asking you a bunch of stupid questions, just trying to get some stuff on the table.
I hope it doesn't sound like i'm asking you a bunch of stupid questions, just trying to get some stuff on the table.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,080
Likes: 5
From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
I meant I got it to TDC and while turning over I turned it back and forth to help it start with no luck. No valve clearance wasn't checked because the specs of the rebuild are a stock 94+ 460.
Trav
Trav
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Mississippi
Does the lower half of the cap have the raised "1" inside? Yes?
Pull #1 plug & turn over by hand with breaker bar to make sure its it is in the ball park (finger over hole, pressure build up rather than vac) timing wise while watching balancer marks.
Verify that rotor is fractions of inch BEFORE the #1 in the cap & 10* on the balancer.
Pull the SPOUT plug.
Hard to turn over with good battery is sometimes un-evenly tightened transmission bell housing bolts.
Pull #1 plug & turn over by hand with breaker bar to make sure its it is in the ball park (finger over hole, pressure build up rather than vac) timing wise while watching balancer marks.
Verify that rotor is fractions of inch BEFORE the #1 in the cap & 10* on the balancer.
Pull the SPOUT plug.
Hard to turn over with good battery is sometimes un-evenly tightened transmission bell housing bolts.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,787
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Clean the pins on the diagnostic port. Use contact cleaner or if you need something more aggressive use a finger nail file.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,787
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
X2.....the symptoms (minus the no code issue) point to stabbing the distributor 180 degrees out. Remember the crankshaft rotates twice as part of the engine combustion/exhaust cycle.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
It isn't 180 out already triple checked that cause I have done that before.
Bellhousing bolts are torqued even I did them myself.
Will have to try cleaning the one port
Trav
Bellhousing bolts are torqued even I did them myself.
Will have to try cleaning the one port
Trav
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
On the other hand I have done the same thing more than once....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Got a couple things figured out. Battery was bad wouldn't take a load. New battery and she started right up got a few more tuning items to do but it runs. However no cel or tach on the cluster. Checked the prongs at the computer and everything looks fine. Test light in the bulb socket and still nothing. New cluster that I know is good without a tach (was in my 88 but installed a tach cluster) and no cel still.
Trav
Trav
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Ok so got a few issues right now.
Start it up and you hear a grinding noise near the starter replaced the starter as I thought that it was acting up and same. Only makes the noise in park and neutral. Put it in gear and it acts like the transmission is slipping in drive and reverse. No OD light at all and still can't pull codes.
I am almost 100% sure the torque converter is locking in or unlocking causing an issue and I believe it is electrical. No ammeter, coolant gauge, tach, oil pressure gauge or other lights. High beam on the cluster works.
Trav
Start it up and you hear a grinding noise near the starter replaced the starter as I thought that it was acting up and same. Only makes the noise in park and neutral. Put it in gear and it acts like the transmission is slipping in drive and reverse. No OD light at all and still can't pull codes.
I am almost 100% sure the torque converter is locking in or unlocking causing an issue and I believe it is electrical. No ammeter, coolant gauge, tach, oil pressure gauge or other lights. High beam on the cluster works.
Trav
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,080
Likes: 5
From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Ok so got a few issues right now.
Start it up and you hear a grinding noise near the starter replaced the starter as I thought that it was acting up and same. Only makes the noise in park and neutral. Put it in gear and it acts like the transmission is slipping in drive and reverse. No OD light at all and still can't pull codes.
In drive it acts sometimes like it is going to die until u give it more gas again
I am almost 100% sure the torque converter is locking in or unlocking causing an issue and I believe it is electrical. No ammeter, coolant gauge, tach, oil pressure gauge or other lights. High beam on the cluster works. Also it won't idle down.
Trav
Start it up and you hear a grinding noise near the starter replaced the starter as I thought that it was acting up and same. Only makes the noise in park and neutral. Put it in gear and it acts like the transmission is slipping in drive and reverse. No OD light at all and still can't pull codes.
In drive it acts sometimes like it is going to die until u give it more gas again
I am almost 100% sure the torque converter is locking in or unlocking causing an issue and I believe it is electrical. No ammeter, coolant gauge, tach, oil pressure gauge or other lights. High beam on the cluster works. Also it won't idle down.
Trav
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
What I'm saying is your starter is likely staying powered any time the transmission is in park or neutral.